What are you up to in the workshop?

eddie86 said:
Thanks for the advice.
With the hard facing rods, can the weld be ground down with a grinder to shape it sharp for cutting?
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It sure can. A bit slower as its so hard though. Not the nicest of weld, but it's not the type of filler wire/rod for joining pieces of steel together. It's solely for hard facing wearing surfaces.
 
Skimmer said:
Hardox welds just as readily as mild steel. Thick sections (above 20mm) need pre-heat, but for what you are doing some 600 grade hard facing rods or mig wire will do the job. We use the mig wire and the resulting weld bead is incredibly hard wearing.
Something like these maybe:
https://wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/category&path=380
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When you say mig wire, do you mean ordinary mild steel mig wire or is there special wire for such jobs.
I done a few blades using 29/9 rods,
and grinding them back.
It's a fairly tedious job.
 
eddie86 said:
I have a hedgecutter saw blade with hardox tips that have been rounded one side from cutting too tight to the ground.
Does anyone know what welding rods would be best to build up the round edge?
TIA
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I'd go with rods for that job, tried wire but for whatever reason it didn't take and came off within a few hours, had no trouble when doing it with the rods though!!

Don't put anymore on than needed cause its a right bugger to grind off.:weld:
 
towbar said:
no whats the pros cons?
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No blowing holes required and no distortion if you have a lighter piece.
Companies that will do the whole lot - send off on back of truck and it will come back finished in 3 days.
Fairly good finish to be fair.
Horses for courses and all that
 
Mike said:
No bad idea surely..
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A pain grinding off galvanise where you want to weld it and you still have rust prone areas where you weld.

If I were making @towbar s gate, I’d use regular mild steel, wouldn’t drill out holes - just weld them onto the box iron and then I’d get the finished product hot dipped.

You can paint it afterwards if you’d rather not have it looking silver.
 
Galv box would be very useful for kiting a shed out with pen dividers and the likes. Bolt on hinges. My mate even made brackets that clamped onto box or a girder so could be lifted higher if the muck gets high
 
diesel power said:
Yesterday's engineering attempt. Hitch and axle bolted in so 18 nuts and bolts out and it's back on the lift arms.
View attachment 62186 View attachment 62187
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That's a proper job now, does the door reach the ground now that it's on an axle? Did you fit a longer pto shaft to the slip clutch or was it a complete shaft you had? I've found that any bit of an angle off straight and it'll rattle. €500 for half of a wide angle shaft though...
 
hanixman said:
I did the side in the pictures with a new section of steel.
i thought the other side was ok and started patching it and by the end I reckon id have been quicker to replace the lot.
It still has some bad pitting and a new piece would have taken care of that too.
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Thats what i was thinking, a new frame at the top
 
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