Oats does not get brown rust so if you have visible rust then it’s crown rust. Corbel is ok on rust, you really need modem or opus to shift it. I would start with 1/2 a litre of corbel as soon as weather allows and leave it at that. Go in with a better curative mix then in a few weeks. Keep the Talius until later also.Was thinking of going with Corbel and Tallius on Oats next week. Small bit of mildew but a lot of rust. Will this combination kill the rust? Have it in stock since last year hence why I was going to use it. Also can anyone tell me the difference between crown and brown rust and how to differentiate. Thanks.
Yes that would help, .4 of a litre per ha.Any point in putting a bit of Modem in with the Corbel? Thanks for the advice.
Plenty of this to be found in a crop of Husky today.
It’s moving onto new leaves.
I think it’s Septoria avenae. Samples will be tested.
The Septoria type thing that I mentioned before was in an adjoining field in 2017.
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An awful lot of the husky oats down south has that blotch. Elatus era just seems like a mad idea in March considering it does feic all on mildew and is mediocre on rust.The pathology department in Teagasc Oakpark has studied samples which I sent to them and has confirmed that it is Septoria avenae.
The lower leaves of the crop are dead and lesions are present on the new growth.
It will be sprayed with Elatus Era next week.
Going to run into a expensive spray program especially going with elatus this early ...The pathology department in Teagasc Oakpark has studied samples which I sent to them and has confirmed that it is Septoria avenae.
The lower leaves of the crop are dead and lesions are present on the new growth.
It will be sprayed with Elatus Era next week.
We may go back to growing Barra unless there is a new variety coming along.Going to run into a expensive spray program especially going with elatus this early ...
An awful lot of the husky oats down south has that blotch. Elatus era just seems like a mad idea in March considering it does feic all on mildew and is mediocre on rust.
We may go back to growing Barra unless there is a new variety coming along.
What has he done that everyone else has not because none of the oats or wheat I’ve seen look anything like thatIsabel winter sown oats being grown organically in Wexford. The grower also has Cellule winter wheat.
He chose both for their disease resistance and grain quality.
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What has he done that everyone else has not because none of the oats or wheat I’ve seen look anything like that
Why the good colour? Is there a heap of organic manure under it or is it after ley?It’s Isabel in both pics, I haven’t seen the Cellule yet as he’s to take pics of it. He says both look well with just a little mildew.
He planted both really thickly to suppress weeds.
Why the good colour? Is there a heap of organic manure under it or is it after ley?
Have cellule sowed also and it’s a lovely green healthy crop , have another field of graham and it’s not so impressive at all , not overly worried but thought it would be better , getting compound and k2 next week .It’s Isabel in both pics, I haven’t seen the Cellule yet as he’s to take pics of it. He says both look well with just a little mildew.
He planted both really thickly to suppress weeds.
Have cellule sowed also and it’s a lovely green healthy crop , have another field of graham and it’s not so impressive at all , not overly worried but thought it would be better , getting compound and k2 next week .
Ask who ever looks at the crops for you what they are recommending and why, start asking questions of them and you’ll start from thereKind of off topic but I do admire the knowledge of fungicides of ye experienced tillage people. Looking at labels, lots of products claim to do lots of things but how to know which to use, full rate, half rate, What products to mix together etc..... It’s an area I would really love to improve on but hard to find where to learn it.....or maybe it’s just years of experience!!!
Kind of off topic but I do admire the knowledge of fungicides of ye experienced tillage people. Looking at labels, lots of products claim to do lots of things but how to know which to use, full rate, half rate, What products to mix together etc..... It’s an area I would really love to improve on but hard to find where to learn it.....or maybe it’s just years of experience!!!
In the same boat myself , I think experience is a lot of it , I’m getting there slowly , if any sort of crop walks or even on the forum don’t be afraid to ask. Plenty of people to give advice no matter how stupid a question it is, if you don’t ask or do you will never learn .Kind of off topic but I do admire the knowledge of fungicides of ye experienced tillage people. Looking at labels, lots of products claim to do lots of things but how to know which to use, full rate, half rate, What products to mix together etc..... It’s an area I would really love to improve on but hard to find where to learn it.....or maybe it’s just years of experience!!!