What are you up to in the workshop?

You could shorten the bottom of the crowd rams where they mount to the frame, looks like the last bit is solid steel so wouldn’t be a big job. Just be careful welding a ram, extend it fully, drain it of oil and have hose removed so it can vent gas/heat.

Yea i have to get them shortened and im getting new bushes made up to fit them properly and greeseable pins like the ones i got for bottom.

My issue is the two plates at the bottom of the loader where i shortened the arms are comeing against the cross beam i measured too short:scratchhead:
So iv bit of figureing out to do.

You can see it in therse photos .

First off cut two pieces of plywood the same size as your plates, screw a spacer between them and drill the same holes.


Disconnect the ram hoses and cycle the ram. See how big a notch you need to take out. By if you want to see the effect of shortening the ram replace it with two pieces of 3x1 clamped together. You can clamp them at your proposed open and closed lengths and then raise/lower the loader to see the angles involved

Ye il have to do a bit of figureing out
 

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A light duty overhead gantry was on the menu today, I've made a few of these before and they're suitable for up to 250kg. Ingredients are a length of 8x4 RSJ, Lidls hoist for €50, some channel iron for hoist carrier, length of 4x2 channel for overhead brace, 25mm solid steel shaft for a pivot/hinge, 4x old "6205" combine bearings and bits of other scrap also. The last photo is one I made earlier, the current one isn't hanging yet as I ran out of Mig gas but you get the idea.
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Ideal to have around the workshop .
 
Yea i have to get them shortened and im getting new bushes made up to fit them properly and greeseable pins like the ones i got for bottom.

My issue is the two plates at the bottom of the loader where i shortened the arms are comeing against the cross beam i measured too short:scratchhead:
So iv bit of figureing out to do.

You can see it in therse photos .



Ye il have to do a bit of figureing out

id say you’d get away with cleaning off the rest of the old frame from the outside of the arms and notching the inner plates on your new headstock, just weld in a few braces between the 2 plates wherever you can so that it clears the box
 
Yea i have to get them shortened and im getting new bushes made up to fit them properly and greeseable pins like the ones i got for bottom.

My issue is the two plates at the bottom of the loader where i shortened the arms are comeing against the cross beam i measured too short:scratchhead:
So iv bit of figureing out to do.

You can see it in therse photos .



Ye il have to do a bit of figureing out
You mean the 4 upright plates are coming back and fouling the square beam that goes across the loader? If so you should be able to cut out a small arc in the uprights to allow it back further, this won’t affect the overall strength of the frame too much.
 
id say you’d get away with cleaning off the rest of the old frame from the outside of the arms and notching the inner plates on your new headstock, just weld in a few braces between the 2 plates wherever you can so that it clears the box

Ye i dont know how much of the sides i will cut away dont think it will weekin anything .

You mean the 4 upright plates are coming back and fouling the square beam that goes across the loader? If so you should be able to cut out a small arc in the uprights to allow it back further, this won’t affect the overall strength of the frame too much.

Yes the very thing i should have left the new arms slightly longer but ye i think a small notch out of them should make big difference
 
Have you enough range between crowd and tip? Could you lower the ram mounting point or not sure if it would help but introduce a linkage between ram and QA frame
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Have you enough range between crowd and tip? Could you lower the ram mounting point or not sure if it would help but introduce a linkage between ram and QA frame
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Is that a quickie ? Looks similar to my q940 .

I got the holes and plates made to match the old brackets on the grabs etc on that loader so im sure il have enough range of movment i had taught of adding linkage like you posted but it would ad to alot more pins bushes and plates to be bored and welded . If i notch the plates and mount rams right hope iv the movement
 
Is that a quickie ? Looks similar to my q940 .

I got the holes and plates made to match the old brackets on the grabs etc on that loader so im sure il have enough range of movment i had taught of adding linkage like you posted but it would ad to alot more pins bushes and plates to be bored and welded . If i notch the plates and mount rams right hope iv the movement
Yes quickie I just grabbed on web but the key to get range is minimal distance between the mount point of QA to loader and ram but of course you loose power also.
 
id say you’d get away with cleaning off the rest of the old frame from the outside of the arms and notching the inner plates on your new headstock, just weld in a few braces between the 2 plates wherever you can so that it clears the box

and if it came to it, I wouldn't be afraid of cutting the fouling corners of the cross member and welding in flat triangles (in say 8mm). It's well braced on the side closest to the tractor.
 
Small bit more progress on this
 

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bit late to the party here but i priced a grab up at around the £1200 mark, from memory i think this cost around £600 to make for the steel and the tines, i got genuine kvernland tines from agri and garden at a very reasonable price which helped i didn't need to buy rams and i made the hoses up with hydraulic pipe and crimp ends i bought from sale so that probably knocked about £200 of the total. i think the main advantage was that it will be stronger, but it did save a bit as well if i don't count my time.

I was thinking of making one myself and I was doing a rough calculation to see what it would cost to buy all the parts and it wouldn't be that far away from the price of a Fleming grab.
What tines did you buy, I was looking on agri and garden and I see a selection of tines the same length with different size nuts and different prices, what is the difference between them, is the bigger nut size ones heavier. If I could tines at a good price it might make it worth while to make.
How did you work out the position of the holes for the rams and pivot points.
 
I was thinking of making one myself and I was doing a rough calculation to see what it would cost to buy all the parts and it wouldn't be that far away from the price of a Fleming grab.
What tines did you buy, I was looking on agri and garden and I see a selection of tines the same length with different size nuts and different prices, what is the difference between them, is the bigger nut size ones heavier. If I could tines at a good price it might make it worth while to make.
How did you work out the position of the holes for the rams and pivot points.
Do you make the stuff yourself or get someone to do the work?
I find it workout cheaper if you don't factor in your time.
Also you build up materials over time that you would make something from without buying very little.
There was 4inch box here with a 12mm wall I don't know what I originally got it for but it was some stuff
 
Same as that here . Be surprised what can be made from the off cuts from other job`s .
Do you make the stuff yourself or get someone to do the work?
I find it workout cheaper if you don't factor in your time.
Also you build up materials over time that you would make something from without buying very little.
There was 4inch box here with a 12mm wall I don't know what I originally got it for but it was some stuff
 
Do you make the stuff yourself or get someone to do the work?
I find it workout cheaper if you don't factor in your time.
Also you build up materials over time that you would make something from without buying very little.
There was 4inch box here with a 12mm wall I don't know what I originally got it for but it was some stuff

Up until recently I got someone to make stuff for me. I didn't have a great way of working so it was handier to get someone to make it. I bought a mig and a bandsaw this year and have made a few gates so far. I also have a few other projects in mind. I found the same as well about the bits of steel left over from making the gates. I need a rack now to store it as it's getting in the way on the floor
 
Bit of a concrete project.
Wanted a walk through footbath for the sheepies. Had a footway past a stand in footbath so decided it was up for conversion!!

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Concreted it level. Then made a wooden mold for the actual 'bath' bit. Poured around it today.
Lift the mold tommorow and see what's what!
 
Bit of a concrete project.
Wanted a walk through footbath for the sheepies. Had a footway past a stand in footbath so decided it was up for conversion!!

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Concreted it level. Then made a wooden mold for the actual 'bath' bit. Poured around it today.
Lift the mold tommorow and see what's what!

Will you put "creels" at each side to force them to stay in the footpath?

Are those a different type of crash barrier , used in the pen at the side ? I have used the W type ones here in a cattle pen/ crush.
 
Will you put "creels" at each side to force them to stay in the footpath?

Are those a different type of crash barrier , used in the pen at the side ? I have used the W type ones here in a cattle pen/ crush.

I've planted some angle iron in the right hand side (from camera viewpoint) to weld uprights and some form of sheet to it. Won't be anything fancy, and as it's walk through won't need to be too heavy.
One job will be a gate on the exit to stop the kiddo walking in!

The galv bars are not crash barriers.
There's a local firm that rolls profiles for various jobs.
They were a bulk order that either got cancelled or were wrong. It was auctioned off, lots of it. Dad always regretted not buying 10x the amount as it was handy!
 
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What tonnage per section will it hold .
I happily get a full artic of sweet meal, basically ground up confectionary waste, in one side.
A lot depends on the truck driver.
One lad kept too close to one side, meal came further forward than a truck dead center.
Another insisted on pulling to far forward in one go..... Spread the load out.

I recon with a telehandler and some playing you could squeese two loads in.
 
I happily get a full artic of sweet meal, basically ground up confectionary waste, in one side.
A lot depends on the truck driver.
One lad kept too close to one side, meal came further forward than a truck dead center.
Another insisted on pulling to far forward in one go..... Spread the load out.

I recon with a telehandler and some playing you could squeese two loads in.

I’ve 4 bunkers I tip artics in,main job is stopping the drivers from driving forwards to fast,they always know best! You need to let it run out.
 
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