What are you up to in the workshop?

towbar said:
so if it was me before i'd pay for new switch i'd test the old switch out of the circuit and then i'd use a temporary generic switch or just two wires touched to confirm that the circuit will work with a new switch
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what way will i test switch ?
 
bk1991 said:
what way will i test switch ?
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Multimeter or very simple circuit with a light and a battery with switch inline. Don’t use a strong bulb but if 12v something like a 5w side light or even a single cell battery and a torch bulb or single led
 
towbar said:
Multimeter or very simple circuit with a light and a battery with switch inline. Don’t use a strong bulb but if 12v something like a 5w side light or even a single cell battery and a torch bulb or single led
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hows it tested on multimeter ?
 
multimeter has a mode to test if there is continuity between the terminals - usally a beep when the two prongs touch. Connect each prong to each wore from the switch and press the switch you should hear the beep.
 
On the subject of post drivers, would anyone have any suggestions of what to fill the hammer with. Punchings from an iron worker are hard got
 
avent said:
On the subject of post drivers, would anyone have any suggestions of what to fill the hammer with. Punchings from an iron worker are hard got
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Would lead be any good, it would be heavier than steel. I know where you could get some as well:whistle:The carriage would be a killer
 
avent said:
Getting a bit more done on this jobView attachment 73685 View attachment 73686
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Your design looks very similar to a mates one that came from Ireland, can't remember the make now mind you!

Anyhoo.
Too late I think but..... One thing I have found is that the weight isn't far enough away from the mounting frame, or in deed the tractor. So if your in an awkward corner the frame or the tractor winds up in the way.
 
Lead would be the job allright. I have some solid scrap iron bars so if they were cut up and fill the voids with lead I'd say it would be a great job
lough said:
Would lead be any good, it would be heavier than steel. I know where you could get some as well:whistle:The carriage would be a killer
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Its a good job i have no awkward corners to do
AYF said:
Your design looks very similar to a mates one that came from Ireland, can't remember the make now mind you!

Anyhoo.
Too late I think but..... One thing I have found is that the weight isn't far enough away from the mounting frame, or in deed the tractor. So if your in an awkward corner the frame or the tractor winds up in the way.
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avent said:
Lead would be the job allright. I have some solid scrap iron bars so if they were cut up and fill the voids with lead I'd say it would be a great job
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Or even old worn rock breaker chisels, any one that has a rock hammer should have a few lying around, and as you say fill the voids with lead.
 
I had the same issue when i was making the one here . Priced it up every way making it out of plates welded together and getting a pipe filled with steel . Ended up buying a solid steel billet from impact metals . Issue with using punchings is not enough weight , One here is 300kg mark and wish i`d gone heavier now .
avent said:
On the subject of post drivers, would anyone have any suggestions of what to fill the hammer with. Punchings from an iron worker are hard got
Click to expand...
 
massey 6480 said:
I had the same issue when i was making the one here . Priced it up every way making it out of plates welded together and getting a pipe filled with steel . Ended up buying a solid steel billet from impact metals . Issue with using punchings is not enough weight , One here is 300kg mark and wish i`d gone heavier now .
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would a rock spike be a better investment than a heavier weight. I know a heavier weight is a much simpler thing than a rock spike obviously.
 
Is your ground stoney or hard clay. Mostly I will be using it on clay ground with little or no stones but when it dries out its like the top of the road
 
Looking for a new motor for the Cab heater in the Case Cs94 its the lp cab. Hasn't worked for a few years but dad had it checked back then and was told its the motor on the blower. I haven't went about stripping to find it has anyone any ideas where I’d find a replacement as no douth Case ih will be mad money
 
bk1991 said:
Looking for a new motor for the Cab heater in the Case Cs94 its the lp cab. Hasn't worked for a few years but dad had it checked back then and was told its the motor on the blower. I haven't went about stripping to find it has anyone any ideas where I’d find a replacement as no douth Case ih will be mad money
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Get it out and start googling the numbers on it. Bound to be a fairly standard motor?
 
Anyone know how /if it’s possible to get the pins out from the plug in the pic . Loose wire in one of the pins and can’t afford to break the plug . It works most of the time .
 

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massey 6480 said:
Anyone know how /if it’s possible to get the pins out from the plug in the pic . Loose wire in one of the pins and can’t afford to break the plug . It works most of the time .
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@towbar is right, it is simply a light walled "tube" that releases the latches on the pins for those type of connectors. If you have an old radio or RC toy car etc, with a telescopic antenna, simply cut the bottom off the large section, the top off the small section, and you should have a selection of suitable size tubes to release those pins!!!!!!! That's what I did when I was caught out over Christmas without the right size tool!!!!
 
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