Ford 7610

JohnBoy

Well-Known Member
After talking about it longer than some lads talk about trailers we bought a 7610 last week. Drove it home yesterday and started making a list of things that need doing.
20200516_121227-01.jpeg

Nothing major but lots of little things which I might need some advice on.

Have a owners manual in the post and need to pickup a workshop manual at some stage.


One of the axle kingpins has a little play, is this just a case of removing the two kingpins and pulling the hub outwards to replace the bearings or do I have to do something to disconnect the half shaft? (ZF axle)

Front axle/hub oils, I assume a good idea to change these as a matter of course?

Does this fuel filter look right? I'd have thought it should have twins or a bigger single? (Need to tidy that sh*tty wiring too)
20200517_193407-01.jpeg

Does the PTO have a seal or would the dry oil below it just be from changing PTO speeds?

The hand throttle is doing 200 RPM less than the foot which is a fair load on the right foot so something needs tweaking in there.

Seat is wrecked, I have a slightly better one in the shed but might go mad and get one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tractor-...SE-XL-DAVID-BROWN-J-DEERE-MASSEY/253702152942

What's the story with Beacons? Do you need one or two legally these days? (I think two might look ridiculous on it)


Longer term the interior needs a retrim but theres no mad rush on that.
 
-Should be able to adjust the hand throttle up a little bit
-on the pto seal, i would powerwash all the backend first then work it, and see if it’s leaking
-kingpins as far as I know is just remove the pins and pull the shaft out
 
After talking about it longer than some lads talk about trailers we bought a 7610 last week. Drove it home yesterday and started making a list of things that need doing.
View attachment 78095

Nothing major but lots of little things which I might need some advice on.

Have a owners manual in the post and need to pickup a workshop manual at some stage.


One of the axle kingpins has a little play, is this just a case of removing the two kingpins and pulling the hub outwards to replace the bearings or do I have to do something to disconnect the half shaft? (ZF axle)

Front axle/hub oils, I assume a good idea to change these as a matter of course?

Does this fuel filter look right? I'd have thought it should have twins or a bigger single? (Need to tidy that sh*tty wiring too)
View attachment 78094

Does the PTO have a seal or would the dry oil below it just be from changing PTO speeds?

The hand throttle is doing 200 RPM less than the foot which is a fair load on the right foot so something needs tweaking in there.

Seat is wrecked, I have a slightly better one in the shed but might go mad and get one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tractor-...SE-XL-DAVID-BROWN-J-DEERE-MASSEY/253702152942

What's the story with Beacons? Do you need one or two legally these days? (I think two might look ridiculous on it)


Longer term the interior needs a retrim but theres no mad rush on that.

. The half shaft should slide out once you take out the bearings.

. It would be a good idea to change axle and hub oils. Plus seals.

. Fuel filter is ok. I would be inclined to take off the diesel tank and clean it also. Do fit a good quality isolator as a precaution. While your at the wireing fit a d socket in.

. Pto has a seal. Its not a big job to change.

. New trottle cable will give her more revs.

. Buy the most comfortable seat that you can.

. One beacon will do.
 
After talking about it longer than some lads talk about trailers we bought a 7610 last week. Drove it home yesterday and started making a list of things that need doing.
View attachment 78095

Nothing major but lots of little things which I might need some advice on.

Have a owners manual in the post and need to pickup a workshop manual at some stage.


One of the axle kingpins has a little play, is this just a case of removing the two kingpins and pulling the hub outwards to replace the bearings or do I have to do something to disconnect the half shaft? (ZF axle)

Front axle/hub oils, I assume a good idea to change these as a matter of course?

Does this fuel filter look right? I'd have thought it should have twins or a bigger single? (Need to tidy that sh*tty wiring too)
View attachment 78094

Does the PTO have a seal or would the dry oil below it just be from changing PTO speeds?

The hand throttle is doing 200 RPM less than the foot which is a fair load on the right foot so something needs tweaking in there.

Seat is wrecked, I have a slightly better one in the shed but might go mad and get one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tractor-...SE-XL-DAVID-BROWN-J-DEERE-MASSEY/253702152942

What's the story with Beacons? Do you need one or two legally these days? (I think two might look ridiculous on it)


Longer term the interior needs a retrim but theres no mad rush on that.

5600 here has a single fuel filter .
As @Peter says , draining the tank is a must.

On the PTO seal , is it a dual power/2 speed pto ? The 2 speed has a short stub , and mine wore a groove where the seal was sitting against . I used to be putting seals in to it on a very regular basis . Eventually got a new shaft for it . The only Long term cure.
 
Thanks lads, loads of useful tips there. If I was to clean the tanks how involved is it to remove the top one with the Q cab?

It appears to be right in under the dash?
 
The biggest possible problem I find with all Fords of this type is the close proximity of the inside of the bonnet to the positive battery terminal. When the bonnet is closed there's a very small gap between them, any looseness and there's a fire hazard. Every one of them that passed through the workshop here got a heavy rubber sheath secured over the battery terminals to prevent short circuit. As said before, fit a decent isolater switch. Some wiring around the starter needs attention Asap.
 
The lads have covered the wiring etc which is most important for the moment.

Try your local NH dealer for a seat. It's more than 10 years ago now but we got one from ours for the 4610 and it was a Lovely comfy seat which suited the tractor perfectly. It was as comfortable as the Grammar in the Landini.
 
20200520_192432-01.jpeg

That's half original Grammer and half modern cheapo spurious seat. Kept the original metalwork and fitted the modern foam, shock and rollers. To be fair to the chinaman who makes the modern ones he seems to use decent plastics, but the steelwork was atrocious. Thin, soft and terribly painted when compared to the original. The spurious one was dimensonally identical so all the rollers and bushes went straight in. I liked the seat cover it had gained somewhere along the way so reused that.
 
View attachment 78205

That's half original Grammer and half modern cheapo spurious seat. Kept the original metalwork and fitted the modern foam, shock and rollers. To be fair to the chinaman who makes the modern ones he seems to use decent plastics, but the steelwork was atrocious. Thin, soft and terribly painted when compared to the original. The spurious one was dimensonally identical so all the rollers and bushes went straight in. I liked the seat cover it had gained somewhere along the way so reused that.
Original grammar frame is nice to have.
 
What's this socket for?

Is it the same as a lighter socket for general 12v use?

If so, what's it called so I can get a plug for it?
20200521_184237-01.jpeg
 
Hella plug possibly

61u0Wva4A7L._SX355_.jpg


One of these might do with the red adaptor removed
https://sinolec.co.uk/en/cigar-and-...1211300-universal-din-cigar-lighter-plug.html
 
It is made by hella, didn't realise it was named after them too. Will do fine for plugging in a beacon for now.

Thanks lads
 
View attachment 78205

That's half original Grammer and half modern cheapo spurious seat. Kept the original metalwork and fitted the modern foam, shock and rollers. To be fair to the chinaman who makes the modern ones he seems to use decent plastics, but the steelwork was atrocious. Thin, soft and terribly painted when compared to the original. The spurious one was dimensonally identical so all the rollers and bushes went straight in. I liked the seat cover it had gained somewhere along the way so reused that.

The trim inside the cab is pretty decent too to be fair :Thumbp2:
 
The trim inside the cab is pretty decent too to be fair :Thumbp2:

Not great to be honest, that pic makes it look a lot better than it is. One arch has no trim and th rest is all broken and peeling. There was a small fire in the back of the cab at some point too.

Cab trim is ferocious expensive stuff too. To be perfect it would need a headliner, mats all the arch and underseat trims and door/window rubbers.

Depending on where you buy that could be 2 grand in trim.

It's not that good a tractor to spend that kind of money on it in my opinion. I'll be talking to the boss about her expectations but a pair of super q arch covers, a sheet of generic black vynil and something like bed liner spray on the headliner could do an awful lot for a hell of a lot less spend.
 
Not great to be honest, that pic makes it look a lot better than it is. One arch has no trim and th rest is all broken and peeling. There was a small fire in the back of the cab at some point too.

Cab trim is ferocious expensive stuff too. To be perfect it would need a headliner, mats all the arch and underseat trims and door/window rubbers.

Depending on where you buy that could be 2 grand in trim.

It's not that good a tractor to spend that kind of money on it in my opinion. I'll be talking to the boss about her expectations but a pair of super q arch covers, a sheet of generic black vynil and something like bed liner spray on the headliner could do an awful lot for a hell of a lot less spend.

What more would you need sure, unless a full restoration is part of the plan.
How is the cab for rust? It looks solid in the pics.
 
I wouldnt have the time nor the budget for a full restoration. it's in pretty good condition overall, want to keep it that way, make the cab a bit cleaner, get everything working and basically right and I'd be happy at that. clean working classic rather than rivet counting restoration.

Cab seems pretty solid. it's always hard to know how much filler lies under the paint on these things. The seller seemed an honest man and he told me what filling he'd done, and looking at the standard of his sanding through the paint it's obvious where he filled. I'm pretty hopeful there's none around the windows which is the part of these that scares me. It's all only steel at the end of the day and I'm able to make a patch panel, but my god is it time consuming work. there's a lot of curves going on around those windows.
 
and I'm able to make a patch panel, but my god is it time consuming work. there's a lot of curves going on around those windows.

There sure is and it’s a great shame ... I have a 7600. Great Tractor mechanically but can is completely beyond repair economically or even un-economically ! And they were such a fine cab in their day noise wise etc
 
There sure is and it’s a great shame ... I have a 7600. Great Tractor mechanically but can is completely beyond repair economically or even un-economically ! And they were such a fine cab in their day noise wise etc

your only hope is to buy a mig and a few grinders.

by the time you get to the last window you'll be an expert metal shaper. then you can go back to the start and redo the first few windows.
 
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