What are you up to in the workshop?

I made a contraption that fits over the tines of the grab that would unroll barbed wire, it's a big improvement on rolling it out on an old bit of bar but occasionally it can snag and stretch the wire if you're not careful, needs a bit of fine tuning,

I was thinking something similar would do for the netting, some sort of bobbin, a tube with a big round plate on the bottom to do the job of your brake disc, then some sort of offset roller to bring the wire in line with the posts, then you could have a clamp in front of the roller so one you get to the end of the run you clamp the wire and pull it tight with the unroller, if that makes sense.
 
this is the prototype barbed wire unroller

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wire goes through the lifting eyr and is (in theory) metered out by the turret, both the turret and the roll of wire are bolted down with springs so they turn under resistance to keep the tension as the reel unwinds, it works but not perfectly, needs some tweaking to the design, but it's just a heath robinson thing made from scrap to test the concept, males putting up wire on your own a lot easier though. could do with a better design for the wire fee on the turret and something better than the lifting eye to act as a guide, i was wondering about a wooden roller with a groove in it, would guide the wire but act as a sacrifice surface that would be worn instead of the wire, IYSWIM
 
I'd say you need something thicker than the lifting eye.
Say an old drawbar eye. Would have big rounded edges for the lumps to slide past.
 
How is the wire clamped in it?

Tidy job on the fence.

the two bits of round bar are slightly closer together than the width of the piece of box between them, there are 4 bits of flat bar across the back joining the two bits of pipe together and the bolts go through these, undo the nuts and take the box section off the clamp, the indelible pen markings are so you know which way up the box section goes, i made it in a hurry and didn't have the sense to measure the holes so it would fit both ways up, then you put the main part of the tool with the round bars on it behind the netting, and the box section one the other side of the netting and then do the bolts back up.

when the bolts are tight the netting is crimped in a bit by the box clamp which is pulled into the gap between the round tubes but can't fit between them, and the wire is clamped where the corner of the box meets the curve of the round bar on either side, so each row of wire is held in two places and can't move.
 
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I used our 8x5 ifor Williams for rolling out wire here. Used a piece of angle down the back post socket and a brake disc left over it to stop the wire getting caught on the frame. Worked like a dream. And before anyone points it out, yes I know the wire was upside down :oops2::no:

this is the prototype barbed wire unroller

View attachment 78296 View attachment 78297

wire goes through the lifting eyr and is (in theory) metered out by the turret, both the turret and the roll of wire are bolted down with springs so they turn under resistance to keep the tension as the reel unwinds, it works but not perfectly, needs some tweaking to the design, but it's just a heath robinson thing made from scrap to test the concept, males putting up wire on your own a lot easier though. could do with a better design for the wire fee on the turret and something better than the lifting eye to act as a guide, i was wondering about a wooden roller with a groove in it, would guide the wire but act as a sacrifice surface that would be worn instead of the wire, IYSWIM

i need make a spinning jenny to do electric fence.
I’ve a bar between lift arms on back of tractor with two larger tubes on eatch end slid over to keep roll barbed wire from hitting lift arms . It makes so much easier to roll out than to do by hand
 
56F0BE00-0514-4DF3-A160-1F7CBE015038.jpeg Oil changed, few conditioner times replaced and ready to go! Oil change was gona be done last year but had a slight issue with the fill plug, Allen key was slipping in it so had to get a new one then weld a bolt to the old one to get it out:no:
 
Ouch, IMG_20200522_081010.jpg got it straightened up IMG_20200522_150518.jpg stuck one of these under the axleIMG_20200522_175812.jpg IMG_20200522_175812.jpgand a good dollop of weld front and backIMG_20200523_140957.jpg IMG_20200523_141025.jpg should be fine as we have eliminated the stress creating weld that caused the problem and added support, just keep an eye on it as we go.
 
Did you do it yourself? Was it hard pull the axle back down into place?
Did it with a friend of mine that has a good way of working, got it over a garage pit and took the wheels off so the axle hung on the springs, cut out the crack a bit and got a chain winch and hooked it on the outside of those bottom plates and pulled, bit of heat on top, tack welded the crack and then undid the U bolts as we needed the bottom plate as a template, big rush to get the plates made at 4.30 on a Friday evening, rossmore engineering to the rescue cut them with the plasma, once we had them the rest of the time was ours, welded up the break then reassembled the plates and U bolts, tightened them up and welded the axle to the plates.
 
I'd say you need something thicker than the lifting eye.
Say an old drawbar eye. Would have big rounded edges for the lumps to slide past.

On my quickfencer with the proper barb unroller we’ve a big U bolt that the wire feeds through,drawbar eye would be similar.
 
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Have a Redrock on springs here as well so had a look underneath today. Same weld on the axle as @Arthur but all ok at the minute.
There was a Kane in the yard today as well with the same axle make and set up but with a blob of weld on the axle corners instead with seems a safer bet.20200523_102545.jpg
 
I was working in a company 20 years ago building artic running gear. We used to buy SAF round section axles with air suspension. But your issue @Arthur has reminded me that there was a clear instruction in the manual with the axles that the only weld was to be at the neutral zone. That is the 3 and 9 o clock positions as you look at the cross section. The axles came with a saddle shaped so there was a horizontal plate at that neutral line and that’s where it was welded.
 
We spent most of this spring converting this from a shell to sleep 8 people.
And painting it John deere colours
Did u get a much of a run with the glamping after last year the covid could end up being a boon for it yet with people having yo holiday at home possibly
 
Did u get a much of a run with the glamping after last year the covid could end up being a boon for it yet with people having yo holiday at home possibly
The business program was saying there are billions that Irish people used to spend abroad that will be spent in Ireland so a good opportunity for the Glamping .
 
Did u get a much of a run with the glamping after last year the covid could end up being a boon for it yet with people having yo holiday at home possibly
Last summer was very good,busy most nights until September 1st,once school returned it was like turning a tap of though.
Weekends were good enough until early November then it was quiet til January when weekends improved.feb was ok ,then covid appeared and we are closed since.
The red bus was full from 11th july to end August every night hence my decision to convert another one.
We also converted a vintage rice horsebox with a toilet in the front section and a kitchen in the back which accompanies our large retro caravan as a stand alone unit.
We have capacity for 28 people now which is enough ,due to covid we have built individual cooking and toilet facilities for each unit which should be good in the long run but has meant spending money instead of making it so far!!
 

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Last summer was very good,busy most nights until September 1st,once school returned it was like turning a tap of though.
Weekends were good enough until early November then it was quiet til January when weekends improved.feb was ok ,then covid appeared and we are closed since.
The red bus was full from 11th july to end August every night hence my decision to convert another one.
We also converted a vintage rice horsebox with a toilet in the front section and a kitchen in the back which accompanies our large retro caravan as a stand alone unit.
We have capacity for 28 people now which is enough ,due to covid we have built individual cooking and toilet facilities for each unit which should be good in the long run but has meant spending money instead of making it so far!!
Was just thinking there @Seedsower do you have email address for last year’s guest? Cud u send them all a mail with ur expected reopening date and maybe pictures of ur improvements and measures to aid social distancing.
 
Quick 5 minuite bodge in the workshop earlier.
The auto tagger we use is an awkward bit of kit to place anywhere. So made a quick bracket out of an old hurdle loop and a prototype thingimibob that never worked! Should save some hastle
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Supervised the changing of the oil in the Volvo L70C and all fuel filters. Checked all the axles and drop box for liquid lubrications Went and had a cup of coffee and when I got back the indicators and front lights were back working. I did fill the filters with the appropriate liquid.
 
Was getting some shotblasting done so decided to give the silage grab a freshen up. I know @ithastopay would approve.

Im not sure what colour to top coat it in, depends which colour baling twine I’ll be using to for tying up the hydraulic hoses, those cable ties are a pure rob.

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