What are you up to in the workshop?

There's something very pleasing about taking a rusty old tool and putting a new handle and a lick of paint on it.

This billhook took some welding too as it was cracked at the base of the blade. I know some hate them but I love a good billhook, my current one is far too heavy, I'm hoping for good things from this wexford native
 
There's something very pleasing about taking a rusty old tool and putting a new handle and a lick of paint on it.

This billhook took some welding too as it was cracked at the base of the blade. I know some hate them but I love a good billhook, my current one is far too heavy, I'm hoping for good things from this wexford native
Does he paint sheds....:whistle:
 
Made the single trunk version aswell, not worth it for what those bucks are making them for. Must have serious jigs set up
Oh must be well set up you'd be fairly pissed off if you were at it everyday.
Double bale handler was no trouble what so ever in comparison
 
I brought a bill hook earlier this year and find it very handy, I carry it on the quad all the time its great for clearing anything that falls on the electric fence. It wouldn’t be practical to carry a slasher on the quad all the time.
 
How to remove an awkward roll pin!

One sheared on the cam arms for the harvester pickup.
I think what has happened is that it sheared, and whilst trying to get it out in a rush, the holes have gone out of line. But things have pushed through just enough to hold it from lining itself up!!
(Make sense?)
And to top it all up. Each one has two pins, one inside each othee, father in his wisdom and bad vision decided to try and punch the smaller one out first with a small punch. Which just went through the middle and snapped off!

Are there drill bits capable of drilling roll pins?
 
20190813_081843.jpg @Arthur . Fitted new T fails waiting to go to. How will the C flail cope with verges. I cut a lot of drain banks would the Ccopeas well.
 
View attachment 69041 @Arthur . Fitted new T fails waiting to go to. How will the C flail cope with verges. I cut a lot of drain banks would the Ccopeas well.
I have been using C flails for years, the latest machine came with F14's and just did last year with them, they are hard on a hedge as the back edge seem to bash the hedge, that doesn't happen with the C's. also the F14's can shed a chunk off the back if they hit a stone and go off balance. Find the C's fine for verge work too.
 
Sending off my rotor to be balanced at the moment.
Would c flails be better? Taking down alot of heavy stuff
How heavy, 5 years growth or more, when we had REPS scheme some hedges were left for 5 years, I had double sided flails and hammered the bulk of it downwards then cut upwards to tidy it off, with C flails you wont have that option.
 
How heavy are you talking about? The T flail will probably suit you better because they're heavier than the C so will have more momentum in the heavy stuff

How heavy, 5 years growth or more, when we had REPS scheme some hedges were left for 5 years, I had double sided flails and hammered the bulk of it downwards then cut upwards to tidy it off, with C flails you wont have that option.
A good bit of stuff like that.
As lads are getting older and not actively farming there dairy lads taking places that haven't been cut in years.
Spearhead only cuts one way.
 
Breaking the back off the flail has happened a bit with the F10s when cutting back banks and verges. This will be the second year cutting my own so I should have most of the stones found in places that hadn't be cut before.
 
It turned out that our machine did not need the tool and it was only a matter of unbolting a ring of bolts putting in a new ring and tighten up again.
This is the tool and a lot of bits and pieces . There are two frames like the one in the first picture. . It would be a matter of assembling it to compress the rings . Probably not much help .
199DD0C7-1800-4601-9CA6-015A3DD975DF.jpeg 3228D87E-F35D-40AD-BD3B-552F118E7AF0.jpeg A196521C-D267-459D-82F9-F5964834C430.jpeg
Take a picture of the tool,what sort of acerage do you think you got out of them?or what sort of thickness are they new?
 
I noticed a bit of a whine coming from the drum gearbox on the combine so I decided to investigate . Turns out a needle roller bearing had collapsed and took a chip out of the housing. Weld fixed that and I pulled the drum shaft out and got jap engineering to turn the damaged end down and put a sleeve on.20190812_163032.jpg 20190812_163103.jpg
Tom did his thing while I waited and 2 hours later I was on the way home with the shaft. 20190814_154337.jpg8 quid bearing cost me a days hardship ripping the shaft out and a fee for the machining. 20190815_130502.jpg 20190815_155607.jpg
 
I noticed a bit of a whine coming from the drum gearbox on the combine so I decided to investigate . Turns out a needle roller bearing had collapsed and took a chip out of the housing. Weld fixed that and I pulled the drum shaft out and got jap engineering to turn the damaged end down and put a sleeve on.View attachment 69064 View attachment 69065
Tom did his thing while I waited and 2 hours later I was on the way home with the shaft. View attachment 690668 quid bearing cost me a days hardship ripping the shaft out and a fee for the machining. View attachment 69068 View attachment 69067
Looks identical to our MF307 drum, does the drum speed cable drive screw into the end of that shaft? If so the price of that shaft from MF was £800 plus vat... That shaft broke once if not twice with us over 20 years of harvesting. The drum is bolted solid to the back of that shaft which doesn't leave much tolerance for flexing.
 
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