8ft major topper refurb

bk1991

Well-Known Member
So I collected the topper this evening . Few pics attached plan on replaceing the top sheetingand small section on skids . Blast paint and new decals . The gear boxes are new and it needs shaft. What age does it look ? It could top as is just looks bad .
 

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First things first, get a new PTO shaft cover!

Also id be checking that far gearbox, its not the right type for it but that might not make any difference.
 
First things first, get a new PTO shaft cover!

Also id be checking that far gearbox, its not the right type for it but that might not make any difference.

Im
Replaceing the whole shaft so cover will b sorted. Looks like proper gearbox just missing a cover as seen in parts diagram

Im
Unsure if i should clean and prime and paint or get in sand blasted and painted in the long run its probly as cheep to get it done when i factor in my time buying paint etc plus the long term lasting or getting it done .
 

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Last edited:
Im
Replaceing the whole shaft so cover will b sorted. Looks like proper gearbox just missing a cover as seen in parts diagram

Im
Unsure if i should clean and prime and paint or get in sand blasted and painted in the long run its probly as cheep to get it done when i factor in my time buying paint etc plus the long term lasting or getting it done .

Blast it 1st then you can see where to replace,also will be easier to weld as already cleaned.
 
Im
Replaceing the whole shaft so cover will b sorted. Looks like proper gearbox just missing a cover as seen in parts diagram

Im
Unsure if i should clean and prime and paint or get in sand blasted and painted in the long run its probly as cheep to get it done when i factor in my time buying paint etc plus the long term lasting or getting it done .

I would take it all apart and sand blast it and then send it off to be dipped in galvenise.
 
I would take it all apart and sand blast it and then send it off to be dipped in galvenise.

Wonder would it cost much ? It would be lifetime job to be fair . Where would i even get a quote? And would i need holes drilled ?
 
First things first, get a new PTO shaft cover!

Also id be checking that far gearbox, its not the right type for it but that might not make any difference.
What do you see wrong with the far out gearbox. The fact it’s a T box I take it . They all come that way .
 
Wonder would it cost much ? It would be lifetime job to be fair . Where would i even get a quote? And would i need holes drilled ?

The last time I heard a price, maybe a year ago, for galvanizing it was around 80 cents a kg, you would only needs holes in anything that is enclosed like box iron
 
What do you see wrong with the far out gearbox. The fact it’s a T box I take it . They all come that way .

Its missing a cover over the unused shaft .

The last time I heard a price, maybe a year ago, for galvanizing it was around 80 cents a kg, you would only needs holes in anything that is enclosed like box iron

Would the same crowd blast and dip ? Topper prob is between 500-1000kg ??? Or am i way out
 
Before I would start spending money on it I would use it for a bit to see was it a lemon or even would I like it.
 
Before I would start spending money on it I would use it for a bit to see was it a lemon or even would I like it.

Its running perfect even if i dont keep it i can make profit selling it on . If i were to sell the gear boxes as is id still make a profit
 
Its missing a cover over the unused shaft .



Would the same crowd blast and dip ? Topper prob is between 500-1000kg ??? Or am i way out

I don't know if they blast or not, but if there is no holes or and traces of paint on anything you want galvanized they charge a lot to do that work
 
I`d be with jf . Definitely would`nt be going to the bother of dipping it anyway . As it is it aint in bad condition . Patch the holes in the tin work and drive on . You`ll have good money spent on it very quickly . It`s only a topper that`ll spend all it time working in cow shite .
 
If it was mine, I d give it a good wash ( avoiding the bearings and gearboxes) especially underneath, a rub of a wire brush on any rust spots and paint with a good quality zinc rich primer and a couple of coats of machinery paint.
Replace any missing bits and drive on !

Did a similar job on an older Major topper here 10 years ago, the paint is still good.
 
hard to tell from those pics just how bad it is. would it be fair to say that the front ribbed panel is fairly rotten? is it patchable or does it need straight replacement?

The rear one looks relatively solid from here.

Cut out the bad rust and weld in repairs sections. strip it down to the bare chassis, powerwash seven shades of sh*t out of it, spray some phosphoric acid rust converter, roller on some zinc rich primer and a few coats of green and rock on for another 10 years. I wouldnt bother with blasting/dipping it, it doesnt justify the spend in my opinion.
 
hard to tell from those pics just how bad it is. would it be fair to say that the front ribbed panel is fairly rotten? is it patchable or does it need straight replacement?

The rear one looks relatively solid from here.

Cut out the bad rust and weld in repairs sections. strip it down to the bare chassis, powerwash seven shades of sh*t out of it, spray some phosphoric acid rust converter, roller on some zinc rich primer and a few coats of green and rock on for another 10 years. I wouldnt bother with blasting/dipping it, it doesnt justify the spend in my opinion.

Ye the top pannels need replaceing not a big job il cut them out get folded and welded in. I didnt even know about the phosphoric acid what does it do ? When i done the hedge cutter i wire brushed and sanded down everything got it to bare metal then one coat primer and one coat a paint . I can get the paint mixed up and i can spray myself .
 
Nash, if you look at the parts diagram in post #3 it shows a T-box in that position.

Apologies you are correct Paw!

I would be doing the same tbh, by all means replace the steel, good paint and give it the @nashmach treatment from now on.

I would think you mean the @MF30 treatment to be honest! Ours gets lashing of waste oil/diesel mix and honestly if the top was washed off it would probably be close to new despite the fact it is in its tenth season.

I wouldnt be spending big money on it either and would give it the powerfarmer treatment. The big thing is keep it housed and clean off the grass off the top after using it. I dont understand why most are made with indentations along the top. It's the first place most of them rot out!
 
Apologies you are correct Paw!



I would think you mean the @MF30 treatment to be honest! Ours gets lashing of waste oil/diesel mix and honestly if the top was washed off it would probably be close to new despite the fact it is in its tenth season.

I wouldnt be spending big money on it either and would give it the powerfarmer treatment. The big thing is keep it housed and clean off the grass off the top after using it. I dont understand why most are made with indentations along the top. It's the first place most of them rot out!

The ridges you speak of in the top are for strength . And also to stop "booming/vibrating "
 
Apologies you are correct Paw!



I would think you mean the @MF30 treatment to be honest! Ours gets lashing of waste oil/diesel mix and honestly if the top was washed off it would probably be close to new despite the fact it is in its tenth season.

I wouldnt be spending big money on it either and would give it the powerfarmer treatment. The big thing is keep it housed and clean off the grass off the top after using it. I dont understand why most are made with indentations along the top. It's the first place most of them rot out!

The ridges you speak of in the top are for strength . And also to stop "booming/vibrating "

Sopose could get the folds done in a way to stop the stuff sitting on top. Main thing as ye have said thou is stored indoors . I always blow it down when i come in from feild same done when finished spreading slurry or fert i give them a wash off and give them a good spin and greese to try get water from bearings
 
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