Heavy duty feeding barrier

massey 6480

Well-Known Member
Lads need to make 2 feeding barrier`s both 6.3 m wide . Normal barrier for a 4.8 m opening would be made from 100 x 50 x 3 box with a wheel to make opening / closing easier . Now as the width is considerably bigger i need to up the steel size to take the extra pressure that`ll be put on it . Can get 100 x 50 x 5 box or would i be better going for 120 x 60 x 3.5 . The latter is 1.2 kg a meter lighter . Or should i be going bigger again ? .
 
You couldn't put an upright in it at say 4 metres and leave just that solid with just 2mtres swinging. Might be handier. Just a thought
 
Could put in an upright but dont want to as you`ll lose 2 feed spaces at least that way .
You couldn't put an upright in it at say 4 metres and leave just that solid with just 2mtres swinging. Might be handier. Just a thought
Would heavy piping be stronger then box?.
Going on weight per meter i`d have to be using 88.9 x 5 piping to have the nearly the same weight as 100 x 50 x 5 box . Which is a stronger profile pipe or box i dont know .
 
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Could put in an upright but dont want to as you`ll use 2 feed spaces at least that way .


Going on weight per meter i`d have to be using 88.9 x 5 piping to have the nearly the same weight as 100 x 50 x 5 box . Which is a stronger profile pipe or box i dont know .
The box will be stronger as its deeper (given same wall thickness and weight/m)
 
Lads need to make 2 feeding barrier`s both 6.3 m wide . Normal barrier for a 4.8 m opening would be made from 100 x 50 x 3 box with a wheel to make opening / closing easier . Now as the width is considerably bigger i need to up the steel size to take the extra pressure that`ll be put on it . Can get 100 x 50 x 5 box or would i be better going for 120 x 60 x 3.5 . The latter is 1.2 kg a meter lighter . Or should i be going bigger again ? .

Will the barrier be hinged on one side.
Also when you say barrier are you including timbers underneath or is just top rail, bottom rail, and diagonal bars.
 
Could put in an upright but dont want to as you`ll lose 2 feed spaces at least that way

How do you reckon you would lose 2 feeding spaces, by putting in a pillar and splitting the barrier in to 2 sections ?
Only downfall I could see if you need to open it occasionally for access with wide machines.
 
Barriers will be hinged from one side . Will be fully swinging barriers .All moves together timber and diagonal bars same as in the pic below . One`s below also have a wheel fitted makes open /closing so much easier .
upload_2018-9-2_20-38-30.png

Will the barrier be hinged on one side.
Also when you say barrier are you including timbers underneath or is just top rail, bottom rail, and diagonal bars.
 
By splitting the barrier you will lose 2 openings agreed overall width of shed wont change just openings . But that i think would hinder cattle using the full width of the shed .
 
On a wide barrier, the weight kills it.
You could run the heavier box out half way and then the lighter one .
Also try and keep the hinge points as far apart as possible .
Maybe make it slightly taller (longer diagonal bars)
 
Hence i`m adding a wheel . Barrier will be 1.5 m tall (5ft )
On a wide barrier, the weight kills it.
You could run the heavier box out half way and then the lighter one .
Also try and keep the hinge points as far apart as possible .
Maybe make it slightly taller (longer diagonal bars)
 
Hence i`m adding a wheel . Barrier will be 1.5 m tall (5ft )
Neighbour has a fairly standard height barrier. But with two strands of wire rope above it to add height. Worth considering?


Or would two small barriers with a hinge at each end work?
 
Height is`nt adding any real weight to the gate . Preference is for a 5ft barrier as it means cattle`s neck are never touching the the top rail of the barrier . 2 benifits to this they can reach further to eat and i hate seeing cattle with the hair on there neck rubbed off from hitting the top rail of a barrier . Peoples fascination with low barriers comes from circular feeders been only 4ft high .
Neighbour has a fairly standard height barrier. But with two strands of wire rope above it to add height. Worth considering?


Or would two small barriers with a hinge at each end work?
 
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You could split it in two and put in a heavy stub pillar but only come up as high as the bottom rail, then crank the rest back at the same angle as the diagonal. Then make the short gate matching, that way you won’t loose much more than 5/6” depending on what you end up using for steel. Then for the top rather than using a pin make up the latch so it folds over the top bar kind of like the latch you’d get on a pair of timber gates, it’ll brace the join over a say a foot either side which should help
 
I had thought of that but . ( there's always a but) . Barriers are going over a solid slat s . Max depth of concrete I'll be putting up on one side would be 3 " . So a butty stub pillar even bolted to the slat wouldn't take much pressure.
You could split it in two and put in a heavy stub pillar but only come up as high as the bottom rail, then crank the rest back at the same angle as the diagonal. Then make the short gate matching, that way you won’t loose much more than 5/6” depending on what you end up using for steel. Then for the top rather than using a pin make up the latch so it folds over the top bar kind of like the latch you’d get on a pair of timber gates, it’ll brace the join over a say a foot either side which should help
 
Have you any close up photos of the hinge shown in the first photo, is it a flat late welded on top of the box iron
That’s basically it 100 x 10 flat x 150 mm long welded to the box with a 32 mm hole drilled in it with the heel iron coming up through it . Gives more strength to the heel rather than just been welded to the side of the box iron . Same is done on the bottom heel .

On your second question. Definitely need the bottom bar gives a frame of sorts to protect the timber. Doesn’t need to be box could use angle instead . The frame on these barriers is 100x50x5 box with the bottom box being only 50x 50x3 . 42 mm pipe with 3mm wall .
 

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I'd say no. That bit takes a lot of abuse from feet and equipment moving silage.

That’s basically it 100 x 10 flat x 150 mm long welded to the box with a 32 mm hole drilled in it with the heel iron coming up through it . Gives more strength to the heel rather than just been welded to the side of the box iron . Same is done on the bottom heel .

On your second question. Definitely need the bottom bar gives a frame of sorts to protect the timber. Doesn’t need to be box could use angle instead . The frame on these barriers is 100x50x5 box with the bottom box being only 50x 50x3 . 42 mm pipe with 3mm wall .

The existing feed barrier I have the timber sits on the ground and only the barrier itself swings open. I was looking at a neighbours tonight and he has one timber fixed to the barrier and no steel on the bottom, only a piece of flat iron hanging down in the middle and then he has the second timber sitting on the ground and not hinged.
I was thinking of doing the same, having one timber hinged and leave the second sitting on the ground. If you have two sitting on the ground it is to high and cattle don't want to step over it. If you put the two on hinged then the bottom one is to close to the ground it will catch on any small bit of silage on the ground.
 
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