Liamo
Well-Known Member
Undo the 13mm on top of the spring a couple of turns , it might be a good idea to measure its current position for when you rise the pressure again
What are you up to in the workshop?
- Thread starter BasilSeal
- Start date
Undo the 13mm on top of the spring a couple of turns , it might be a good idea to measure its current position for when you rise the pressure again
bk1991
Well-Known Member
i was thinking thats what that was for
mixed fleet
Well-Known Member
As @Liamo said
To set it properly you should fit a prssure guage. (Port on pressure relief value for one. )
Also remember that the valve should be set to suit the type and size of nozzle on the lance/gun.
Last edited:
scoffcruddle
Well-Known Member
Easiest way is get a twin lance,turn the tap on the handle to drop the pressure.
I looked at this last year and concluded that it was a v bad idea tampering with anything on the pump. as far as I could figure out the pump pushes X Liter of water a min depending on the speed of rotation and the pressure is decided upon by the size of the hole in the nozzle.
Thus the way I reduced the pressure was to get a different nozzle. Any powerhose shop will be able to supply you with one.
here we go https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Pre...hash=item280604766d:m:m8LRNIjxgn6jy45NZhzZtig you dont need to buy from ebay you can buy locally.
Have a read of the description on how to pick a nozzle size
Why not reduce engine speed to reduce pressure. Pressure relief valve should not be used to adjust working pressure. It is designed to open when you release to lance trigger and resets when you pull the trigger to operate the lance.
If engine stalls on reduced rpm, use a larger nozzle instead
If engine stalls on reduced rpm, use a larger nozzle instead
Win
Well-Known Member
Would mde have some on the CS or tvt they have for breaking?? That's if the bracket on the cab is the same.
bk1991
Well-Known Member
https://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/...e-holder-Case-IH-1-34-677-082-1530998C2/39726
This is the ones I'm looking for
This is the ones I'm looking for
JohnBoy
Well-Known Member
One of the many jobs being done to keep sane is a freshen up of our ride-on.
it lives outside and was approaching a point of no return so I've been treating it to a refresh and there's a bunch of bearings and the like en route.
Made up this bumper, partially because the front is getting increasigly battered but partially just to play around with pipe bending. I've only occasionally used my bender and never for more than one bend at a time. this was interesting to figure out the curvature and keeping it consistent across both sides.
it lives outside and was approaching a point of no return so I've been treating it to a refresh and there's a bunch of bearings and the like en route.
Made up this bumper, partially because the front is getting increasigly battered but partially just to play around with pipe bending. I've only occasionally used my bender and never for more than one bend at a time. this was interesting to figure out the curvature and keeping it consistent across both sides.
Attachments
massey 6480
Well-Known Member
New button time .
MF30
Well-Known Member
The Avant skidsteer is back for hydraulic motor repair, the hubs are fitted to the motor shaft on a tapered sleeve and locked to provide drive with a key in a keyway. The key had sheared in one wheel and unknown to the operator the hub was spinning on the motor shaft wearing it down. When the other key on the same side failed there was no drive and I investigated. Seal was leaking on the last motor that the key failed on so it was a clean up job and new seal and key. The front which had been spinning was too loose to get tight and the hub was fitted too close to the motor to drive it closer to tighten on the taper. New motor and hub costs €1k so I removed the hub and using the lathe machined one mm from the back to let the hub tighten on the shaft without fouling the motor. A few shims on the outside and job was perfect. Plenty of crap to be cleaned out from the insides on the motor housing...
diesel power
Well-Known Member
Right I need a bit of advice on how I might go about straightening these panels out. Rushing and tearing to go sowing I backed into it with the digger and the arm hit the bonnet and side cover.
Tbh I nearly cried when I saw the damage. While the paintwork is tatty there wasn't a mark in the steel work anywhere on that tractor. Taking a hammer to the dents will probably stretch the steel and fcuk it up altogether. Any advice very welcome
Tbh I nearly cried when I saw the damage. While the paintwork is tatty there wasn't a mark in the steel work anywhere on that tractor. Taking a hammer to the dents will probably stretch the steel and fcuk it up altogether. Any advice very welcome
MF30
Well-Known Member
I'd be trying two blocks of timber sandwiching the panel and hammer one side. You'd be surprised how well it will pop back.
Alternatively get a sledgehammer and get cross with it.
scoffcruddle
Well-Known Member
declanc304
Well-Known Member
Has anybody rebuilt an orbital unit before? Or know anybody that can rebuild them?
mixed fleet
Well-Known Member
When you say rebuild
I had brakes contaminate the back end oil of 50 series deere.
The oil with filings then caused the orbital unit to stick.
Had to sunder it a couple of times till I got all the grit out.
Just took it out, dismantled , clean everything. Fiddly enough but doable.
Last edited:
declanc304
Well-Known Member
D tractor is in a shed and d lad that is at it just told me d orbital is fudged.d steering was locked solid on d tractor and im not sure if it is valves stuck opened or if theres further damage
Win
Well-Known Member
Coil gone weak?
mixed fleet
Well-Known Member
Shouldn't be that dear to replace if you have to. I replaced one on a massey (heavy steering problem) about €300 if I remember right.
Danfoss make most of them, so can be got spurious.