Ford 7610

Yeah or there's a lad brings them from the continent from time to time, he's around 5k per cab too, they're not repainted but solid ones from spain.
 
Yeah or there's a lad brings them from the continent from time to time, he's around 5k per cab too, they're not repainted but solid ones from spain.
Imported would be a better job. Who is he or is it just you’ve seen him on done deal? (The fella that imports them)
 
Not great to be honest, that pic makes it look a lot better than it is. One arch has no trim and th rest is all broken and peeling. There was a small fire in the back of the cab at some point too.

Cab trim is ferocious expensive stuff too. To be perfect it would need a headliner, mats all the arch and underseat trims and door/window rubbers.

Depending on where you buy that could be 2 grand in trim.

It's not that good a tractor to spend that kind of money on it in my opinion. I'll be talking to the boss about her expectations but a pair of super q arch covers, a sheet of generic black vynil and something like bed liner spray on the headliner could do an awful lot for a hell of a lot less spend.

Nothing wrong with any of that for a working tractor in my opinion.

Know someone who did similar having bought a dog ravaged tractor...
 
Imported would be a better job. Who is he or is it just you’ve seen him on done deal? (The fella that imports them)

He's my friends cousin, had a 7810 project, bought a second cab for it and had them both blasted and myself and my mate were supposed to weld the front panel from one into the other one.

They were both rotten and I'm still emotionally scarred from seeing how bad a Q cab can be (in fact you're making me question my purchase :blink:)


But basically he went on the hunt for a cab and ended up importing a few after his worked out so well.
 
The biggest possible problem I find with all Fords of this type is the close proximity of the inside of the bonnet to the positive battery terminal. When the bonnet is closed there's a very small gap between them, any looseness and there's a fire hazard. Every one of them that passed through the workshop here got a heavy rubber sheath secured over the battery terminals to prevent short circuit. As said before, fit a decent isolater switch. Some wiring around the starter needs attention Asap.
Same here, had a close shave driving from a rented farm years ago with a higher battery in a Ford 4600 it shorted and the bonnet caught fire, O opened the bonnet and it extinguished. I always put a thick plastic off a bucket or wellington a n try op of the battery since on all Ford tractors Ice had.
 
He's my friends cousin, had a 7810 project, bought a second cab for it and had them both blasted and myself and my mate were supposed to weld the front panel from one into the other one.

They were both rotten and I'm still emotionally scarred from seeing how bad a Q cab can be (in fact you're making me question my purchase :blink:)


But basically he went on the hunt for a cab and ended up importing a few after his worked out so well.


I don't think cabs from the age group of yours suffered nearly as bad with rust as a Super Q cab. I think it was down to the steel quality, most bad cases of rust I've seen were from the mid 70s or on super Q tractors.
 
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Bunch of small jobs done which make everything a little better. adjusted the doors, put spacers behind the bottom hinges, tweaked the latches a bit and significantly reduced the noise levels in the cab by having doors that seal :)
upload_2020-5-24_17-48-5.png

wired up the beacon, that hella socket was terribly wired and could provide no current, it was just drilled through the wing and the bare wiring exposed underneath to corrosion. I took a new fused feed from the battery instead. long term I'll redo all the add on wiring but right now I want to get legal and get it down to Bandon. Got the small man up on the ladder to set the mirrors. god havent electric mirrors in cars made us lazy!
upload_2020-5-24_17-50-15.png


Then started into the front axle. jacked both sides and did some poking around with the pry bar. As expected the right kingpin is bad, the left is tight as though. The right UJ is also pretty sloppy, the left one has a little play in it too. I definitely have to do the right one and figuring I may as well do the left while I'm at it. Given they're a double cardan joint is there anything special involved or is it just a case of doing a normal UJ only twice?

More importantly how do I get the half shaft out of the hub?
upload_2020-5-24_17-56-34.png

upload_2020-5-24_17-58-23.png

How much stripping inside the hub do I have to do to release it? It looks like 14 is some sort of snap ring/circlip holding 43 into it, but do I have to dismantle the planetary to get to it? :confused3::scared:

Also discoverd one of the inner track rod ends is mullered, and the other one has a bit of play in it. they look lovely to remove sitting there under the radiatior.:no:
 
Bunch of small jobs done which make everything a little better. adjusted the doors, put spacers behind the bottom hinges, tweaked the latches a bit and significantly reduced the noise levels in the cab by having doors that seal :)
View attachment 78397

wired up the beacon, that hella socket was terribly wired and could provide no current, it was just drilled through the wing and the bare wiring exposed underneath to corrosion. I took a new fused feed from the battery instead. long term I'll redo all the add on wiring but right now I want to get legal and get it down to Bandon. Got the small man up on the ladder to set the mirrors. god havent electric mirrors in cars made us lazy!
View attachment 78398


Then started into the front axle. jacked both sides and did some poking around with the pry bar. As expected the right kingpin is bad, the left is tight as though. The right UJ is also pretty sloppy, the left one has a little play in it too. I definitely have to do the right one and figuring I may as well do the left while I'm at it. Given they're a double cardan joint is there anything special involved or is it just a case of doing a normal UJ only twice?

More importantly how do I get the half shaft out of the hub?
View attachment 78399

View attachment 78400

How much stripping inside the hub do I have to do to release it? It looks like 14 is some sort of snap ring/circlip holding 43 into it, but do I have to dismantle the planetary to get to it? :confused3::scared:

Also discoverd one of the inner track rod ends is mullered, and the other one has a bit of play in it. they look lovely to remove sitting there under the radiatior.:no:
I think, although it looks too late , you should mark the position of the driveshaft before you pull it out as if you fit it 90 or180 degrees in a different position it may cause it to knock. I remember this being an issue with an axle I did ages ago but there were only 2 possible positions to refit it in. Wasn’t a Ford tractor either so all may be fine.
 
If I was taking out a flanged propshaft I'd always mark the two halves, and always mark the sides of a UJ before taking it apart but didnt think it'd be a factor on the diff end of a shaft, I'd assumed they were always just splined
 
If I was taking out a flanged propshaft I'd always mark the two halves, and always mark the sides of a UJ before taking it apart but didnt think it'd be a factor on the diff end of a shaft, I'd assumed they were always just splined
Shouldn’t be a problem but this was a similar set up as in your picture. Just can’t remember why it knocked as the diff should look after an imbalance. Removing it and turning it 90deg cured it. Think it was a JCB front axle for someone local.
 
Is it just pop this circlip off and it pulls out the back?

20200524_193630-01.jpeg

I need to go circlip pliers shopping tomorrow, I only have a small one.
 
I got a bigger tool @Arthur.

The shaft is out and the UJs are being cleaned by the apprentice.

Removed the oil seal, Answers on a postcard as to how I should remove this bronze bushing?

Is it a case of sharp cold chisel and collapse it inwards or is there a finer approach? Theres little over a mil clearance on the far end of the bush so driving it back out isnt an option.

20200525_202246-01.jpeg
 
What's the ID of the bushing?
You could try pull it out with a puller or slide hammer on one of these, bearing puller
IMG_20200525_210209269.jpg
 
Never seen that type before. It's around 40mil or so.

Where did you get that one
A few of them came with a Sykes Pickavant puller kit , that's the biggest one in the set , it expands to max 38mm.Intended for use with the slide hammer
 
Waiting for some axle parts to arrive, got nearly everything stripped. Removed those bushes with a chisel, minor marks on the bores but easily cleaned up afterwards.


At some wiring this evening. I'll do a more detailed repair in the winter but for now I just wanted to make it safe. Taped off a number of exposed wires and redid the connector blocks before wrapping them well in tape. Made some spiral wrap from a hose to protect part that was exposed. Over the winter I'll do it in denso tape.

The one job I did want to do right away was the battery wiring. I redo this on most things, 40 year old connectors will generally benefit from being renewed. I got some new cable last weekend, its massive stuff altogether, sheathed it with some hose protector I had and wired it to an isolator. Didn't have enough monster crimps so will finish it tomorrow.

Also played with my new toy, chinas finest crimped. 25 pounds on Ebay!!!!!
 

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Good idea with the new battery cables and connectors, it’ll improve cranking power. One thing I may add, the deadman switch you have fitted isn’t really man enough to handle the amps that your battery can put out. The light duty contacts in it will take the good out of your fitting new cables etc. I’d be changing it for a heavy duty steel handle one that costs about a tenner more.
 
Waiting for some axle parts to arrive, got nearly everything stripped. Removed those bushes with a chisel, minor marks on the bores but easily cleaned up afterwards.


At some wiring this evening. I'll do a more detailed repair in the winter but for now I just wanted to make it safe. Taped off a number of exposed wires and redid the connector blocks before wrapping them well in tape. Made some spiral wrap from a hose to protect part that was exposed. Over the winter I'll do it in denso tape.

The one job I did want to do right away was the battery wiring. I redo this on most things, 40 year old connectors will generally benefit from being renewed. I got some new cable last weekend, its massive stuff altogether, sheathed it with some hose protector I had and wired it to an isolator. Didn't have enough monster crimps so will finish it tomorrow.

Also played with my new toy, chinas finest crimped. 25 pounds on Ebay!!!!!
What were the crimps like with the crimper? I’ve been meaning to get one of those for a long time.
 
Good idea with the new battery cables and connectors, it’ll improve cranking power. One thing I may add, the deadman switch you have fitted isn’t really man enough to handle the amps that your battery can put out. The light duty contacts in it will take the good out of your fitting new cables etc. I’d be changing it for a heavy duty steel handle one that costs about a tenner more.

Ah balls. That's a proper hella one and the most expensive option from DHFM. I bought it figuring it should be the best one, but looking at the specs on hellas website it's only a toy.

Better to know now than to burn out the thing that's supposed to improve the safety!!

Yeah that's a beast of a battery alright, not something I'd want to be tossing around too often :sweat:
 
What were the crimps like with the crimper? I’ve been meaning to get one of those for a long time.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Ton-H...9?pageci=ab182484-7208-422d-8ebd-ed610dcfa5fa

I got it at half price a week ago. The crimps are rock solid. I used solder them but it's an awful lot of solder which means a lot of heat and melting insulation, plus the solder can wick up into the wire a distance making it solid.

I was actually looking for a hammer crimper but that one was on special so I couldn't leave it behind.

Its total overkill though, those are the biggest crimps I'm ever likely to use and are only 1/3rd of its capability.

To be honest if anyone wanted a monster crimper I'd happily let it off again because it's way beyond my needs.
 
Ah balls. That's a proper hella one and the most expensive option from DHFM. I bought it figuring it should be the best one, but looking at the specs on hellas website it's only a toy.

Better to know now than to burn out the thing that's supposed to improve the safety!!

Yeah that's a beast of a battery alright, not something I'd want to be tossing around too often :sweat:
Durite are good and is what I intend to use
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Ton-H...9?pageci=ab182484-7208-422d-8ebd-ed610dcfa5fa

I got it at half price a week ago. The crimps are rock solid. I used solder them but it's an awful lot of solder which means a lot of heat and melting insulation, plus the solder can wick up into the wire a distance making it solid.

I was actually looking for a hammer crimper but that one was on special so I couldn't leave it behind.

Its total overkill though, those are the biggest crimps I'm ever likely to use and are only 1/3rd of its capability.

To be honest if anyone wanted a monster crimper I'd happily let it off again because it's way beyond my needs.


Thanks. And thanks for the link. I ha e been meaning to get one as must for 3-4 isolators just slow getting around to it !
 
What would be the impact of running without a thermostat on an old engine like this?

Changed the fan and alternator belts yesterday and drained the cooling system to get access. When I'd driven the tractor home the temperature gauge never moved much so I said I'd check out the stat, lo an behold no stat. Not an expensive thing to sort out but just curious what difference it would make on a non managed engine not getting up to temp.

Guy I bought it from had fitted a new rad so I'm guessing it was heating up in the past.


Also drained and serviced the power steering system today, old fluid looked nasty, it had clearly been in there a while.
 
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