Ford tractor restoration

[Blue Power]

Who would be considered the best to restore a ford 7610 back to original condition with full overhaul ? Someone that you could trust would do the job right and that wouldn't spray paint over bad metal work before you could inspect it. What way does payment restoration normally work? Would it be a case of staged payments.

 

[c4l]

Who would be considered the best to restore a ford 7610 back to original condition with full overhaul ? Someone that you could trust would do the job right and that wouldn't spray paint over bad metal work before you could inspect it. What way does payment restoration normally work? Would it be a case of staged payments.

quote we got for a cosmetic restoration (new metal for the cab, paint work) for our 7810 was 2500 euro or there abouts depending on how big the job he will find it

 

[FIAT 450]

Think there is a ford fans page on FB might be worth asking there also. Where are you based @cormywormy might know someone

 

[cormywormy]

Think there is a ford fans page on FB might be worth asking there also. Where are you based @cormywormy might know someone

Pj savage is cork , think he is still at tractors

Philip gaffney wexford ,

brian Corcoran kildare

cyril hanna up north




Depends how much you want to spend, . Could spend 1500 doing the cab or 3000 alone . A full strip down and respray If a lot of welding is needed could be 8/9000. I’m getting a tw sprayed at the minute and you can get the painters payment terms when they view it.

 

[c4l]

john dolphin in midleton might help although thinking about it he just does cosmetic restoration. saw his ad on dd today

 

[Antares 130]

Just to give you an indication a full nut and bolt restoration, rot cut out and replaced with good metal, existing nuts and bolts refinished, all parts shot blasted and resprayed and the tractor rebuilt to as new condition would run close to £6k for labour alone.. Using a 110-90 as an example.

 

[Blue Power]

Many thanks for your replies. Have been in touch with some lads. Looking at 10k+ for as new condition bumper to bumper.

I was looking at cyril Hanna refurbs on face book. Looks to do superb work. I would imagine transporting a tractor up and back from limerick could cost another €500+.

Who I choose would have to come down to recommendations. You would have to trust the person doing it that bad work is not painted over. I guess the person would have to be near enough that you could call at agreed stages.

 

[jf 850]

Many thanks for your replies. Have been in touch with some lads. Looking at 10k+ for as new condition bumper to bumper.

I was looking at cyril Hanna refurbs on face book. Looks to do superb work. I would imagine transporting a tractor up and back from limerick could cost another €500+.

Its possibly a bit like Owning a Rolls Royce,

If you have to ask what mpg a Rolls achieves , you cant afford to run one.

Restoring a tractor , Properly, can run into money very quickly , and if another 500 or 1000 spent on the project , puts you out of your comfort zone , then it might be safer to leave it .

 

[Blue Power]

Its possibly a bit like Owning a Rolls Royce,

If you have to ask what mpg a Rolls achieves , you cant afford to run one.

Restoring a tractor , Properly, can run into money very quickly , and if another 500 or 1000 spent on the project , puts you out of your comfort zone , then it might be safer to leave it .

I would imagine a refurbishment is not going to be priced down to the euro. It's only when you go taking things apart that potential extra costs become more apparent but having said that an open cheque book can't be given either.

 

[cormywormy]

Its possibly a bit like Owning a Rolls Royce,

If you have to ask what mpg a Rolls achieves , you cant afford to run one.

Restoring a tractor , Properly, can run into money very quickly , and if another 500 or 1000 spent on the project , puts you out of your comfort zone , then it might be safer to leave it .

Well said there, that exactly

 

[Mike]

I would imagine a refurbishment is not going to be priced down to the euro. It's only when you go taking things apart that potential extra costs become more apparent but having said that an open cheque book can't be given either.

What your reason for the refurb, is the tractor of sentimental value and you want to preserve it?

 

[Paw]

https://www.facebook.com/james.cardus1/photos
This lad is very good but being in the north of England I guess he's too far away. He would do nothing less than a nuts and bolts up job and if you need to ask how much he won't tell you.

 

[Blue Power]

What your reason for the refurb, is the tractor of sentimental value and you want to preserve it?

I only have it a few years it's not sentimental just it's a rare 2wd gen 3 in good enough condition. Would be a cracker if refurbished. I grew up with the ford 5000/7000 that's what I would really want but hard enough to come across.

 

[Blue Power]

I was replacing the ball joints for the steering but the right hand side is seized. Any ideas how to get it off?

 

[SMID]

Seen his work first hand, his attention to detail is exceptional .

https://www.facebook.com/james.cardus1/photos
This lad is very good but being in the north of England I guess he's too far away. He would do nothing less than a nuts and bolts up job and if you need to ask how much he won't tell you.

 

[Blue Power]

There was a ford 7610 gen 3 restoration in classic tractor November 2011. Brilliant restoration. Done by Ewan Gerrard from Alford.

 

[ts115]

I was replacing the ball joints for the steering but the right hand side is seized. Any ideas how to get it off?

Snap, I did them on my 6410 over the weekend, all except that one as it was still good, the grease nipple must have saved it as the other 3 (2 on the steering ram and the other side were shot), but when I went to track it I could get the track rod to move, the bar on the other side of the one you have there.
I had also replaced the spindles and the bushes but had tightened up the ball joints before I tried to track it so there was no moving them, I had to take the arm off the king post each time, took about an hour, got it to 3 mm toe in, happy with that.
I think the only way you'll get that out is with heat.

 

[MF30]

I was replacing the ball joints for the steering but the right hand side is seized. Any ideas how to get it off?

You need to hit the outer housing (blue piece) around the stuck ball joint, while applying downward pressure to the top of the stub. 5 good clatters with a lump hammer should release it.
By the way the photo of your tractor in the post above shows an excellent condition tractor, I wouldn’t dream restoring it further unless you’re going to wrap it in cotton wool after spending 10k on it. Looks immaculate.
Edit, is it the taper stub is stuck or the adjustable track rod in the hollow tube? My first suggestion was for stuck taper, gas might be needed for adjustable sliding track rod.

 

[Mike]

I only have it a few years it's not sentimental just it's a rare 2wd gen 3 in good enough condition. Would be a cracker if refurbished. I grew up with the ford 5000/7000 that's what I would really want but hard enough to come across.

Looks a very nice tractor.
I wouldnt touch it unless you are 100% sure you are keeping it long term though, as you wont recover all your costs if you go to sell it.

 

[Blue Power]

You need to hit the outer housing (blue piece) around the stuck ball joint, while applying downward pressure to the top of the stub. 5 good clatters with a lump hammer should release it.
By the way the photo of your tractor in the post above shows an excellent condition tractor, I wouldn’t dream restoring it further unless you’re going to wrap it in cotton wool after spending 10k on it. Looks immaculate.
Edit, is it the taper stub is stuck or the adjustable track rod in the hollow tube? My first suggestion was for stuck taper, gas might be needed for adjustable sliding track rod.

The adjustable trackrod (red) is seized. I went to remove the steering ram to carry away the track rod to a garage but the ball joint (yellow) won't come out. Should know by now that nothing is a 1 hour job.

The axle is moved out further on the right hand side than the left. This is how it was when I bought it. Was this done for ploughing? Is it a big deal for road driving to leave as is?

 

[ts115]

The adjustable trackrod (red) is seized. I went to remove the steering ram to carry away the track rod to a garage but the ball joint (yellow) won't come out. Should know by now that nothing is a 1 hour job.

The axle is moved out further on the right hand side than the left. This is how it was when I bought it. Was this done for ploughing? Is it a big deal for road driving to leave as is?

Did you try screwing the ram out of the ball joint, you could take the track to and ball joint to the garage then, I replaced the joints on the ram, the joint on the other end of the ram (not in your picture) was very worn.

 

[Blue Power]

Did you try screwing the ram out of the ball joint, you could take the track to and ball joint to the garage then, I replaced the joints on the ram, the joint on the other end of the ram (not in your picture) was very worn.

That is an option just disconnect the hoses and keep rotating the ram. The ball joints in the steering have no play but may as well change them if the ram is coming off.

 

[ts115]

That is an option just disconnect the hoses and keep rotating the ram. The ball joints in the steering have no play but may as well change them if the ram is coming off.

There is a grove on the chrome rod of the cylinder beside the threads, I think its 22mm you could unscrew it there which would save you disconnecting the pipes, my ram has a small weap which helped with the unscrewing as the oil prevented it from rusting on!

 

[gone]

The adjustable trackrod (red) is seized. I went to remove the steering ram to carry away the track rod to a garage but the ball joint (yellow) won't come out. Should know by now that nothing is a 1 hour job.

The axle is moved out further on the right hand side than the left. This is how it was when I bought it. Was this done for ploughing? Is it a big deal for road driving to leave as is?

The axle out more one side than the other is usually done for rowcrop work, sowing or hoeing beet with a 5 row.

 

[MF30]

The adjustable trackrod (red) is seized. I went to remove the steering ram to carry away the track rod to a garage but the ball joint (yellow) won't come out. Should know by now that nothing is a 1 hour job.

The axle is moved out further on the right hand side than the left. This is how it was when I bought it. Was this done for ploughing? Is it a big deal for road driving to leave as is?

You’ll have little bother separating the yellow marked joint with a few sideways bangs, try hammering in the broken shaft further up into the sleeve to break the rusty joint.