Never came across bianco but from what I see of bandsaws, they're all much the same these days, mostly made in Turkey or China but when parts go on them it's nearly cheaper to buy a new one than fix them due to the importers extortionate spares prices
I ended up buying the Bianco in the end, it was second hand and 3 phase, I got it converted to a single phase motor. I wanted a FMB but couldn't get one, so bought the Bianco as they were made in Italy, I didn't want a Chinese one even thought a new one would have been cheaper than the second hand Bianco that I bought. Its a good enough saw but I have never used anything else so can't say if it is better or worse than a FMB.Hey lads sorry to be reviving an old one but I’m currently in the market for a new bandsaw. Ive it narrowed down to between a Bianco and Fmb. I currently have an Fmb galactic semi automatic and I’m changing that for an automatic machine. Still waiting on prices for the Fmb so don’t know how much it’ll be yet but was given an estimate the Bianco has a larger capacity and so far is coming in cheaper. Just wondering if anyone had any opinion good or bad about a Bianco saw. Tia
The Galactic I have is 3phase I don’t know if it can be converted too easy I said it to a fella one time before I got the 3phase about running it on an converter and he said it wouldn’t be a success because it has three motors one for the saw, another for the electro hydraulics and another for the coolant and would be too much of a pull on current. I’m not sure if I’ll be selling the old saw yet but if I got the Bianco it would have more capacity and I could use it in semi automatic mode to cut beams meaning I wouldn’t need the old saw anymore seems a better option than setting up another set of rollers for a second line.I ended up buying the Bianco in the end, it was second hand and 3 phase, I got it converted to a single phase motor. I wanted a FMB but couldn't get one, so bought the Bianco as they were made in Italy, I didn't want a Chinese one even thought a new one would have been cheaper than the second hand Bianco that I bought. Its a good enough saw but I have never used anything else so can't say if it is better or worse than a FMB.
I would still love a FMB but are hard to come by, is the one you have single or three phase
Are you sure you put it on the right way around? Made that mistake once.I changed the blade in the bandsaw today, the new blade has finer teeth compared to the old one, when I use it now it keeps hopping, did this ever happen anyone before, what could be wrong.
I'm nearly sure it's in the right way, I replaced the blade because I broke the other, I was cutting a bit of steel and it caught it and pulled it up, is it possible it knocked something out of line.Are you sure you put it on the right way around? Made that mistake once.
It's more than likely a broken tooth or teeth, if it is damaged teeth you can keep using it within reason for a while until you cant stand listening to it anymore or it starts cutting out of line.I changed the blade in the bandsaw today, the new blade has finer teeth compared to the old one, when I use it now it keeps hopping, did this ever happen anyone before, what could be wrong.
It could be a few things but might be a broken tooth. Theres a lot to bandsaws and blades and I'll confess to knowing only little. As far as I know the coarser and larger teeth (less teeth per inch) is for heavier thicker materials. Larger TPI and smaller teeth for lighter materials. Very easy if theres a mismatch for a tooth to get broken on the first cut. Also there's the whole thing about breaking the blade in on solid material first, apparently its supposed to help align the teeth. You can go down a lot of rabbit holes on youtube
but barring all that maybe check all the little bearings and wear pads are all as they should be..
It's more than likely a broken tooth or teeth, if it is damaged teeth you can keep using it within reason for a while until you cant stand listening to it anymore or it starts cutting out of line.
Did you put the newly fitted blade in to finish the cut that broke the original blade? If you did it's likely whatever broke the first one also damaged your new one
hmmm that's odd and does the blade come off?If it was a broken tooth (I've had one before) it would just hop at the point where the broken tooth is, this just hops the whole time, the full length of the blade
The blade is in the same way as the old one, the teeth are pointing forwardI think one of the lads said it before but is the blade turned the direction. I’ve a Cosen saw here and the blade needs to be reversed as the blade turns clockwise as opposed to counter clockwise on my Fmb. Made the mistake on the Cosen of not turning it one day it cut just not very fast. What material are you cutting when it’s hopping.
No it doesn't come of, I've seen that happen before but not this timehmmm that's odd and does the blade come off?
There is no auto drop on her, you feed her by handBeing that you’ve changed the tpi of the blade do you need to adjust the drop rate of the saw? As in is it trying to drop into the work too fast for the amount it’s cutting causing extra pressure on the blade then it hops releasing that pressu
It is a Bianco 280MThat is an odd one. Pre-Brexit, I have imported and sold a few steel cutting bandsaws and I never had any issues with the head of the saws hopping. I have had issues with them cutting off square and one or two with underpowered motors.
I have often chipped a blade and every time the chipped section passed over the steel being cut, it would hop at that point, which can be really annoying. It is easier to chip a coarse blade, cutting thin wall sectioned steel, than with a fine blade. Coarse blades are for cutting solid material and fine blades for cutting light or thin walled sectioned steel.
I would take off the blade again and check the two large wheels, that hold the blade in position. Check they are running through, and are not warped, or loose on their bearings or mounts. If they are that could cause a problem.
Other than that, the only other parameters to check are the tension of the blade (too loose or too tight), the drop rate of the damper (is the head going down too fast into the steel) and the condition of the guides (could the bearings be seized or stuck). Also, it might be worth checking the condition of the motor, if the wiring is dodgy, with broken wires internally or loose connections, it could be causing power loss. I had loose connections in a belt sander once, which caused a lot of head scratching until diagnosed.
Also, swarf/chips can build up in a lot of corners on a bandsaw and with the addition of water from the coolant, can set light concrete, causing grief in different areas and sticking the plungers in safety/limit switches particularly if the saw is not used regularly.
One other thing, did you try cutting some softer material such as a lump of a timber lat, to see how it gets on.
Out of curiosity, what make is the saw?
A lot of people sell 8 to 10 tpi ( could be wrong but that neighbourhood) but we found 4 to 6 a lot better. There is also a world of difference in quality. Some real muck out there. Am sure I mentioned about breaking in the blade before. I'll get a pic of the brand we use, the blades actually some in long lengths and they are cut and welded together then ground. Some places have that facility but only a few. Am not at home for another but yet but I'll dig out the brand, available in Ireland but we had a contact in europe...One for @whichwire and @Agri-Eng i figure ye would be pretty on the ball on this one, what tpi would ye recommend for a saw that’s predominantly box section but also flat (100*12 tops for the most part) and also the odd bit of H or C?
Blade is starting to give a bit of bother so gona get a new one, haven’t actually measured the one on it to see what it is but just curious as to what you would ball park it at
I would be very much concurring with @whichwire in his above comments.One for @whichwire and @Agri-Eng i figure ye would be pretty on the ball on this one, what tpi would ye recommend for a saw that’s predominantly box section but also flat (100*12 tops for the most part) and also the odd bit of H or C?
Blade is starting to give a bit of bother so gona get a new one, haven’t actually measured the one on it to see what it is but just curious as to what you would ball park it at