case cvx's

Agri Power said:
Now, Now.....
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Did you ever see the fiat's they prototyped with zips?
Lads were giving out about having to change the clutch every 48 hours so they brought them out with zips around the bell housing.
That didn't work tho within 2 weeks the zips rotted off them.
Think they were going to try velcro next only they stopped making them
 
Agri Power said:
I blame the engineer, he must be a moaning fu_ker and his personality is coming out in his product.!!:yes:
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The fiat lad must not have had much faith in his product to say the hour clock resets when it gets to 10k I suppose he knew they wouldn't nearly be all rotten by then :whistle::whistle:
 
ShaneB140 said:
slow starter, leads or bad battery, sisu is a good engine to start, early models before common rail are spluttery and spitty for a few seconds in morning
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Put a new battery in her yesterday Shane made no difference just wondering should I try a non return valve on fuel line Like what was mentioned a couple of pages back, tractor always started perfect just developed this problem last couple of weeks she’s a 2006 1135 tractor cranks fast as usual just don’t fire off fast enough
 
Okeefffe97 said:
Put a new battery in her yesterday Shane made no difference just wondering should I try a non return valve on fuel line Like what was mentioned a couple of pages back, tractor always started perfect just developed this problem last couple of weeks she’s a 2006 1135 tractor cranks fast as usual just don’t fire off fast enough
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Is there any smoke when she turns as in are the injectors getting fuel ?
 
Bog Man said:
Is there any smoke when she turns as in are the injectors getting fuel ?
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No smoke when she’s turning then when she eventually starts she blows a bit of blue smoke splutters then clears herself and she’s good then for the day just the initial starting where the problem is
 
Take off the fuel line before the pump and turn on the ignition, see if there is fuel being pumped trew, or see how long it takes for fuel to come. Is there a non return valve before the pump?
 
marco said:
Take off the fuel line before the pump and turn on the ignition, see if there is fuel being pumped trew, or see how long it takes for fuel to come. Is there a non return valve before the pump?
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We put a non return valve on her this evening from the tank to the filter and replaced that fuel line so will see now in morning
 
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Okeefffe97 said:
Also should note pre heater only comes on once air temperature is under 5 degrees is this correct
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It probably is, the older ones have a switch on the dash and you have three settings on a switch on the engine circuit board. I take it you've had no EEM codes up??
 
Win said:
It probably is, the older ones have a switch on the dash and you have three settings on a switch on the engine circuit board. I take it you've had no EEM codes up??
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Correct no eem codes just 3 sgr faults all to do with low voltage from cranking to long parking her up now for night so will know the result in morning, don’t know where to look if this don’t correct it
 
When trouble starting happened I drained both filters to see if water or dirty, but weren’t to bad. Anyway had to leave up on moors overnight and next day started up quickly without doing sgr codes. So replaced both filters but have the problem every morning, cranking too long and you see sgr fault on dash lcd appear before burbles into life with big black/grey cloud of smoke. Leave it run for a while then stop and starts straight up and rest of the day. Turning the ignition on and letting pump run till stops 2 or 3 times makes no difference in the morning, so surely even if fuel had drained back that should sort it?
 
Spazmode said:
When trouble starting happened I drained both filters to see if water or dirty, but weren’t to bad. Anyway had to leave up on moors overnight and next day started up quickly without doing sgr codes. So replaced both filters but have the problem every morning, cranking too long and you see sgr fault on dash lcd appear before burbles into life with big black/grey cloud of smoke. Leave it run for a while then stop and starts straight up and rest of the day. Turning the ignition on and letting pump run till stops 2 or 3 times makes no difference in the morning, so surely even if fuel had drained back that should sort it?
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Trouble is if air got in between the lift and injector pump it would not bleed out, was having similar here when I had the 170 although it has a different pump to yours, the return line was syphoning fuel out of the pump while parked, come to start and the pump was empty, it had enough to fire then would stop. Put a loop in the return pipe that went up higher than the pump and its never done it since, there must have been air getting in the pump somewhere but I never found it, was always worse in colder weather.
 
Has any one ever had to replace the k1 k2 dog clutches? I put a comment up a year or 2 ago about getting a clunk noise coming out of trans (thought it might of been the diff) if you were to lift on and off the travel pedal at slow speeds it has a real loose clunk like something has to take up the slack also same clunk at about 5km on the way up and 10-12km slowing down. Whatever it is it’s definitely getting worse
 
8500 hours
Is this the part we are talking about. Looking at how fine the teeth are I don’t think it could wear enough to have the amount of movement I have
6478F9B1-6991-40A3-BCA9-1D0D70B53BF3.jpeg
 
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