Claas baler problem.

NHPOWERSTAR

Well-Known Member
I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday, he's bought a 250 rotocut at the start of last year for his own silage. He's new to baling and he puts the grass in as well as a bit of whole crop.
He was telling me that when he's baling the whole crop that sometimes when he's made the bale and opens the door the bale is wedged in and won't come out. Rollers are turning but the bale is stuck in the chamber.
I asked him did he change the density setting for whole crop but he was saying he just kept it the same.
I have never baled whole crop but would I be right in saying that you need to screw the density back a bit?
 
I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday, he's bought a 250 rotocut at the start of last year for his own silage. He's new to baling and he puts the grass in as well as a bit of whole crop.

He was telling me that when he's baling the whole crop that sometimes when he's made the bale and opens the door the bale is wedged in and won't come out. Rollers are turning but the bale is stuck in the chamber.

I asked him did he change the density setting for whole crop but he was saying he just kept it the same.

I have never baled whole crop but would I be right in saying that you need to screw the density back a bit?


i wouldnt change density. theres wedges that u can buy that bolt onto inside of chamber to allieviate this problem
 
Try baling in the same direction as it is mowed. Seen that before when we had 250 in heavy 1st cut grass bale would stop turning couldnt even get it netted.
 
Seen that happen with a class baler before and what caused it was a bearing was changed on one of the rollers near back door and set too tight and caused the bale to wedge in the baler when made and door was opened. guy solved problem by measuring each roller and setting that bearing out a bit on the shaft.
 
Had one about 9 or 10 years ago that did that too but it was a complete HOS (heap of s---) and was trouble from day one . Didnt go out a single day without some sort of trouble . Luckily the supplying dealer was very supportive but despite their best efforts they could not sort its multitude of faults so took it back and supplied a different make for the following year thank God .
A right Monday morning job it was and it ended forever my long association with Claas balers.

We just had to keep shaking the door to get it to drop the bale , despite fitting extra wedges.
Then go into another field and it wouldn't happen at all but the net would play up instead.
 
9 times out of 10 the door wedges will fix the sticking bale problem.

Sadly the 250 wasn't one of Claas's better balers overall though and many were soft/troublesome.
 
Does anyone remember a kit being available to replace the hydraulic valve chest on a Claas 46 baler? Loosing pressure on the back door while baling resulting in softish bales. Someone was selling a made up kit on done deal a few years ago comprising of a lock valve and a check valve if I'm not mistaken. I may have a small internal leak on mine and while I do pressurise the door once during making a bale I'd prefer to modify it correctly than give Claas a grand for a valve block. I replaced ram seals before but this didn't help. There's also small valves on the bottom of the rams that had a broken spring in once before, replaced it also with little effect. Any experts on the system or how to test each component? The valve block I remember was made up of standard hydraulic off the shelf items and was then set with the correct pressure relief. Thanks in advance.
 
I asked Lyons hydraulics in Wexford about the possibility of putting it together and he didn't seem to have heard of one before...
I asked him to look up the details of it and I never heard back so presume that's a dead end.
 
I asked Lyons hydraulics in Wexford about the possibility of putting it together and he didn't seem to have heard of one before...
I asked him to look up the details of it and I never heard back so presume that's a dead end.
Could probably be done with a relief and check type valve, you just need to pressurise the door shut and for it to hold while making a bale is it??
 
Does anyone remember a kit being available to replace the hydraulic valve chest on a Claas 46 baler? Loosing pressure on the back door while baling resulting in softish bales. Someone was selling a made up kit on done deal a few years ago comprising of a lock valve and a check valve if I'm not mistaken. I may have a small internal leak on mine and while I do pressurise the door once during making a bale I'd prefer to modify it correctly than give Claas a grand for a valve block. I replaced ram seals before but this didn't help. There's also small valves on the bottom of the rams that had a broken spring in once before, replaced it also with little effect. Any experts on the system or how to test each component? The valve block I remember was made up of standard hydraulic off the shelf items and was then set with the correct pressure relief. Thanks in advance.
There's a spring inside the one on there put more woshers under it have u good O ring on quick releases have done seals in rams?
 
Could probably be done with a relief and check type valve, you just need to pressurise the door shut and for it to hold while making a bale is it??
That's it more or less, the relief valve is set at 250 bar pressure according to a previous post. Think the replacement kit contained both components and a few hoses and connctions to fit it all together for around €300. Pressurise the door closed and try to keep the closed pressure up during formation of the bale. I presume if the baler was new the condition of the tractors own valve chest shouldn't affect pressure loss seeing as baler has a check or lockout valve...
 
There's a spring inside the one on there put more woshers under it have u good O ring on quick releases have done seals in rams?
Good seals on quick releases, new seals fitted in both rams, checked small valves at bottom of rams and replaced spring in one. The original valve block had loads of washers fitted by previous owner which didn't work so I got a replacement block from a breaker which still had the factory seal on it so no extra washers fitted. This might have improved things a bit but still too much loss of pressure. Maybe now is the time to add some washers to this block.
 
I wonder would it be worth checking if the valve seats are cracking at the correct pressure and not leaking prematurely. Maybe try re seating or grinding in the valve seat as mentioned in the earlier posts.

Maybe an older Claas dealer or former dealer might be able to help?
Would a diesel injection workshop be able to use their injector testing kit to check the valve operation.
Just a thought
 
I wonder would it be worth checking if the valve seats are cracking at the correct pressure and not leaking prematurely. Maybe try re seating or grinding in the valve seat as mentioned in the earlier posts.

Maybe an older Claas dealer or former dealer might be able to help?
Would a diesel injection workshop be able to use their injector testing kit to check the valve operation.
Just a thought
Am going to explode/open up the old valve block to see what I can break before I tackle into the good one. From what dealers have told me they are trained to replace parts not spend time being curious. I'm all for seeing how it comes apart, I'm fairly cheap on labour to myself!
Diesel testing mightn't work due to different viscosity of fluids, it'd be hard for a ball and seat to hold diesel back if say.
 
Am going to explode/open up the old valve block to see what I can break before I tackle into the good one. From what dealers have told me they are trained to replace parts not spend time being curious. I'm all for seeing how it comes apart, I'm fairly cheap on labour to myself!
Diesel testing mightn't work due to different viscosity of fluids, it'd be hard for a ball and seat to hold diesel back if say.
Take valve off baler spring is on bottom I think .u need vice to put it back together
 
So the strip down began, first the old valve block, then the one I'm using which has been untouched since the factory.
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Both valves had similar amount of wear on them but nothing serious. My old one had a lot of shims whereas the sealed one had just one shim.
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I cleaned everything and refitted the large amount of shims into the block which originally just had one. The rubber O ring was fine. Refitted block and tested. Pressure was now higher as expected when door was pressurised but as before pressure dropped to zero within a few minutes.
 
20190606_161107.jpg Then I moved onto the non return valves at the bottom of the rams. Tested them with 10 bar of air pressure, one was fine, the other was not. Problem found. Can't locate the part online, will try Claas in the morning for a sit down price. Theres a small spring in the valve which I replaced a few years ago but even Claas dont recommend you open them. Just replace.
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View attachment 66637 Then I moved onto the non return valves at the bottom of the rams. Tested them with 10 bar of air pressure, one was fine, the other was not. Problem found. Can't locate the part online, will try Claas in the morning for a sit down price. Theres a small spring in the valve which I replaced a few years ago but even Claas dont recommend you open them. Just replace.
View attachment 66636
Would it be worth trying any of the breakers for a second hand unit?
 
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