Combines

[stevieg]

I’m after buying a TX34 to cut 40 acres, (might go up to 100 in the next few years as I have the land) I’m from the west and the way it is here is whenever your grain is ready to cut it will be anywhere between 2 weeks and 2 months before it is cut when relying on a contractor, so it all depends on the situation too.

Id be inclined to change the rubber bushes as well as the needle bearings on the shaker shoe. A handy fix now which could save her throwing the lot out in the field at harvest.
just make sure it’s in the centre of the stroke before you change them. And don’t use grease to put them on the shaft

 

[Masseyrk662]

Id be inclined to change the rubber bushes as well as the needle bearings on the shaker shoe. A handy fix now which could save her throwing the lot out in the field at harvest.
just make sure it’s in the centre of the stroke before you change them. And don’t use grease to put them on the shaft

They look like new on this combine too be fair, the only thing I noticed is the shoe is sitting at an angle and didn’t straighten out while I was there

 

[Claas Grass]

 

[nashmach]

View attachment 73694

Isn't the auger very shiny on that for the hours??

 

[horsebox44]

Isn't the auger very shiny on that for the hours??

That was the 1st thing I thought of too after viewing the picture.... looked like alot more than 2500 hr of threshing gone through it! I could be completely wrong too:rolleyes2:.
With current exchange rates and haulage home, I'd be thinking that would be standing you about 37k ???

 

[wheatwhacker]

How about this one lads

 

[ithastopay]

Isn't the auger very shiny on that for the hours??

Could be genuine hours, cutting dry crops puts a shine on them. Or could be that head is older than the combine, some would change a combine and keep the old head.
@laoisfarmer have you a picture of your header for a comparison.

 

[wheatwhacker]

Could be genuine hours, cutting dry crops puts a shine on them. Or could be that head is older than the combine, some would change a combine and keep the old head.
@laoisfarmer have you a picture of your header for a comparison.

this is mine with 1800 hours

 

[laoisfarmer]

Could be genuine hours, cutting dry crops puts a shine on them. Or could be that head is older than the combine, some would change a combine and keep the old head.
@laoisfarmer have you a picture of your header for a comparison.

Sure it’s all rusty from being out in the rain !!!

 

[Bgrove]

Anyone have an opinion on the Claas Averos?.

 

[nashmach]

Anyone have an opinion on the Claas Averos?.

Not too dissimilar to the Dominators of old. Possibly hard enough to find one second hand though.

 

[Bgrove]

They seem a tidy size for their output.

 

[KTM 450]

Anyone have an opinion on the Claas Averos?.

I really like the look of them for tidy acres. I’ve never had a close look at them but would be on my shopping list in a few years time. McCarthys in Cork had one for sale before last harvest but I was in there in October and it was not in yard anyway.

 

[KTM 450]

A question for the combine experts, I have bought a set of new rasp bars for the drum and planning on fitting this weekend, I am replacing the first day set and don’t think any of the originals were ever taken off for any reason.
I always thought every second bar had the ribs running left and right. Having examined it closely last weekend I now see that there are an adjacent pair at one side running left and a pair opposite running right. Is that normal or should I fit every one alternatively?

 

[Bog Man]

Weigh the bars and grind them down to the same weight or fit the same weight ones opposite each other . I have never fitted drum bars but I have weighed flails and matched them with great success .

 

[Mid cork]

Rasp bars usually come tied together in pairs, the bars in each pair a exactly the same weight and should be fitted directly opposite each other.

 

[KTM 450]

Yes the set I have got are taped together in pairs and are to be fitted opposite one another as @Mid cork says. Apparently they are already weighed and matched.
My question is in relation to the rasp angles, would it be normal to have one adjoining pair to run the same angle?
I always thought every one ran the opposite direction to its adjacent one.
Kinda hard to explain without a photo.

 

[Mid cork]

The angles should be alternating on the bars.

 

[nashmach]

I really like the look of them for tidy acres. I’ve never had a close look at them but would be on my shopping list in a few years time. McCarthys in Cork had one for sale before last harvest but I was in there in October and it was not in yard anyway.

I doubt it will stop you fitting new bars to the drum but I see in this weeks Journal that McCarthy's are advertising an Avero 240 for sale.

 

[KTM 450]

I

I doubt it will stop you fitting new bars to the drum but I see in this weeks Journal that McCarthy's are advertising an Avero 240 for sale.

Im afraid the bars will have to do for this year. But I suppose there’s no harm in looking.

 

[thefarminglad]

Use the proper bolts for those rasp bars as well, i think 8,8 are too light for them and can snap. Also double check they are the right bars. I got some for my deutz combine and they did not sit 100% flat on the disc so brought them back and got the right ones from a different source. At a spinning rev of 1000/minute it has to be right.

 

[6600]

Use the proper bolts for those rasp bars as well, i think 8,8 are too light for them and can snap. Also double check they are the right bars. I got some for my deutz combine and they did not sit 100% flat on the disc so brought them back and got the right ones from a different source. At a spinning rev of 1000/minute it has to be right.

A spot of weld as well is good insurance compared to a bar coming off!

 

[KTM 450]

Use the proper bolts for those rasp bars as well, i think 8,8 are too light for them and can snap. Also double check they are the right bars. I got some for my deutz combine and they did not sit 100% flat on the disc so brought them back and got the right ones from a different source. At a spinning rev of 1000/minute it has to be right.

The bars are genuine JD so I presume are correct but thanks for the tip I will check closely.
The bolts they gave me are 10.9 and the nuts are nylock and have the big flat surface like a washer but fixed to the nut, not swivelling. He told me they are the job for it. The originals had double nuts, I presume the nylocks will be as good.
I must try to look up a torque for them, or any spanner lads here able to advise, they are M10.

 

[diesel power]

The bars are genuine JD so I presume are correct but thanks for the tip I will check closely.
The bolts they gave me are 10.9 and the nuts are nylock and have the big flat surface like a washer but fixed to the nut, not swivelling. He told me they are the job for it. The originals had double nuts, I presume the nylocks will be as good.
I must try to look up a torque for them, or any spanner lads here able to advise, they are M10.

I'd be putting a dab of thread lock on those lock nuts if I were you.

 

[Barrowsider]

I'd be putting a dab of thread lock on those lock nuts if I were you.

A good idea. I had a rasp bar come off the TX62 one Sunday afternoon in 2012. I thought the combine was going to go into orbit before I got a chance to hit the disengage handle.