Ford 4630
- Thread starter Alfie
- Start date
matbro
Well-Known Member
they're easy to test with a multimeter. i used a similar sensor in a water heater and they're around 800 ohms when cold and around 80 ohms when boiling. i never tried an aftermarket sensor.
If you could test with a multimeter as Matbro said it would be good to know before you buy but if not the sensor/sender shouldn't be too dear anyway. I would go for genuine if there isn't too big a difference in price as some sensors read differently and may not be accurate with your temp guage. If you look at the sensor when you remove it some have a coloured collar where the wire connects, could be green or white etc. If it does then that's the one to get to match your temp guage, otherwise just get the genuine one for your model and year tractor if you can.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
I don't have a multimeter but can borrow one, how would I go about testing the sensor ?
Alfie
Well-Known Member
I'll try to test it with a multimeter first before replacing it. I think the genuine one is about 3 times the price of the QTP version but I think it's safer to go for it due to the potential issues, there's not much point changing it if it isn't going to be accurate.
Thomas8210
Well-Known Member
Most genuine stuff is made by others, on more than one occasion I have bought a “genuine NH” part, opened the NH bag and inside it the part was inside a QTP part
matbro
Well-Known Member
disconnect the wire from then sensor as allowing power into a multimeter in the resistance setting damages it. if it is a cheap multimeter set it to the 1kohm range, touch the probes together and the meter should change from infinitely high resistance to 0 ohms.
put the black probe to one terminal of the sensor and the red probe to the other terminal. if there is only one terminal then put the black probe to the brass body of the sensor. then if it reads 800 ohms when cold and stopped and after running to warm up it rises to say 150 ohms then its good. if it doesn't change with temperature then its damaged.
if the multimeter is auto ranging theres just one resistance setting.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
I got a chance to test it at the weekend. I checked the reading when cold & got about 750 ohms I think, checked it when hot & it was about 650. I then checked it when it had cooled down & it was 1900 & when I tried it again later it wouldn't give any reading, I guess the sensor has completely failed now ?
matbro
Well-Known Member
It looks like it, although sometimes corrosion can give a bad reading.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
We replaced the temperature sender today, gauge now working :cool1:
Used a cheap siphon pump that I picked up earlier this month to suck the cooloant out of the top of the radiator, then out of the top of the engine once the top radiator hose was removed, lost less than a mug of coolant I'd say, old sender came out easy & the new one went in easy even though there wasn't much access room.
Thanks @matbro & @Markmex for the help :Thumbp2:
Used a cheap siphon pump that I picked up earlier this month to suck the cooloant out of the top of the radiator, then out of the top of the engine once the top radiator hose was removed, lost less than a mug of coolant I'd say, old sender came out easy & the new one went in easy even though there wasn't much access room.
Thanks @matbro & @Markmex for the help :Thumbp2:
Alfie
Well-Known Member
Looks like I was wrong & the gauge is not working.
The gauge did move into the green but only to the first bar (gravity or vibration perhaps ?) We've since used the tractor for a bit of ploughing & some more work & the gauge didn't read any higher, I presume it should have been well into the green after that.
I've taken a few readings from the sender on different days when cold & got various readings such as 5.2 & 6.3 k ohms. I checked it this morning when cold & it was 6.3, I had it running for 10 minutes & the reading were dropping as the temperature was increasing varying from 5.9 to 4.3 to 1.8 to 1.6
I've just checked it again a couple of hours later & it's now reading 2.5
Has anyone any ideas what the issue could be ?
matbro
Well-Known Member
Those resistance readings seem correct, they're stable and change with temperature. It could happen you installed the wrong part with a different resistance. If you wanted to test the gauge you could replace the sensor with a 10k linear pot. hook one wire to the middle terminal and the ground to one of the outer terminals. turning the pot shaft should move the guage needle.
Some thermistor sensors have a positive temperature coefficient(ptc) others are negative (ntc) your sensor is ntc as resistance is lowered with heat. if the gauge needle is moving the wrong direction after warming up then you need the ptc sensor instead.
muckymanor
Well-Known Member
@Alfie I don't know if I can offer you much information, but I'll tell you my experience of our 5030's temperature gauge.
It heats up as normal and when the tractor is fully warmed, the hand on the gauge goes about half way up. When I turn off the tractor, the gauge does not fall back to zero. Instead, it only falls back as the tractor cools. There is an isolator switch on the tractor meaning that all power is cut off. Maybe its a wonky clock/sensor that is on mine.
It heats up as normal and when the tractor is fully warmed, the hand on the gauge goes about half way up. When I turn off the tractor, the gauge does not fall back to zero. Instead, it only falls back as the tractor cools. There is an isolator switch on the tractor meaning that all power is cut off. Maybe its a wonky clock/sensor that is on mine.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
Yes looks like the sender is working ok, it's a CNH part so it should be correct, I was told there's only 1 part.
The gauge needle does go in the correct direction, it's just I though it should have moved a good bit further on the gauge after heating up a bit.
I was talking to a 4630 driver at a local tractor run on sunday, not the owner but he had asked the owner about the gauge before taking the tractor, IIRC he was told it usually only goes into the 2nd or 3rd section on the clock, he had driven about 12 miles to the run & the needle had only went to the 2nd section. Perhaps there's no issue with the gauge on our 4630, or perhaps the same issue is present on that 4630 ?
We'll do a bit more work with our 4630 & see how it goes, I might try your potentiometer test after that.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
I was just thinking of asking you & @OJ5030 how the gauges acted, I know they are 4 cylinders but I guess they should be similar ? I'd have expected the gauge to sit about halfway up when warm, same here with the gauge not returning to zero when switched off, IIRC the Manual mentions something about that.
muckymanor
Well-Known Member
The needle goes anything between the 4th or 5th section on our 5030 and its the same clock as you have in the picture above (7 greens and 1 red section). Heavy work will put it to the 5th, but lighter tipping around and it won't go just as far.
johndeere6920s
Well-Known Member
Is it possible the thermostats have been removed
Same as that, have never seen it above mid way.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
Thanks @muckymanor, @nashmach & @OJ5030 for the info on the gauge readings.
I've no idea about the thermostat .
I'll check the radiator & hoses after a bit of work next time to see how hot they are.
I've no idea about the thermostat .
I'll check the radiator & hoses after a bit of work next time to see how hot they are.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
A well overdue update, firstly the tractor hasn't had to do any work lasting over about 30 mins & not at the top of the rev range so hasn't really had a chance to heat up, the top hose & radiator haven't been too hot to touch though, I guess everything is ok but I'll keep an eye on it if it ever gets to do some hard work.
muckymanor
Well-Known Member
This last month in the very hot days our 5030s gauge has been sitting higher than before in the green section when its doing heavier work or when on a longer road run. I have been keeping an eye on it, but it never boils nor does it overflow out of the overflow pipe. I think a light powerwash of the radiator might benefit it.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
I've done a few other small little jobs to it since the start of the year.
Firstly the gas struts for the rear window were replaced as the originals started to leak & wouldn't hold the window fully open. The position of the hinge bolts in the glass were also adjusted, the window can now be fully closed. The latch also got a removed & painted. I also put some damp proof plastic above the top of the window between the roof & cab frame to stop water running in when opening the window.
The windscreen washer pump wasn't looking too healthy & there was a piece of pipe missing to connect it to the washer jet. The pump was taken apart as the top was lose & only working intermittently, luckily after being cleaned up it went back together & worked after reassembly on the second attempt.
I replaced the missing piece of pipe but the washer jet was blocked, cleaning that resulted in it coming apart & it wouldn't stay back together with water pressure, some JB weld sorted that once I had set the correct direction for the jet.
Firstly the gas struts for the rear window were replaced as the originals started to leak & wouldn't hold the window fully open. The position of the hinge bolts in the glass were also adjusted, the window can now be fully closed. The latch also got a removed & painted. I also put some damp proof plastic above the top of the window between the roof & cab frame to stop water running in when opening the window.
The windscreen washer pump wasn't looking too healthy & there was a piece of pipe missing to connect it to the washer jet. The pump was taken apart as the top was lose & only working intermittently, luckily after being cleaned up it went back together & worked after reassembly on the second attempt.
I replaced the missing piece of pipe but the washer jet was blocked, cleaning that resulted in it coming apart & it wouldn't stay back together with water pressure, some JB weld sorted that once I had set the correct direction for the jet.
Alfie
Well-Known Member
The left door got some tiger seal around some of the glass as it was leaking, the same was required in a few places for the glass & plastic panels behind the seat
Finally finished the interior with some black leatherette, it's not perfect but it's a big improvement, also fitted the switch for the rear work light.
Finally finished the interior with some black leatherette, it's not perfect but it's a big improvement, also fitted the switch for the rear work light.