nashmach
Well-Known Member
Hydrostatic only came in with the Series 2 I think.
Ford 7610
- Thread starter JohnBoy
- Start date
Hydrostatic only came in with the Series 2 I think.
jf 850
Well-Known Member
7610 , you are now cleared for take off.
JohnBoy
Well-Known Member
Only 3 breakdowns :Thumbp2:
"Weld" in the beacon bracket failed a mile from home so back to get a bolt to hold it together.
Stopped for a check and was leaking diesel, return line was off, took two attempts to fix that properly (cable ties were involved)
Stalled it in a junction and wouldn't start, had to hot wire the solenoid
5.5 hours door to door and the seat was a dream to travel on by comparison to the day I collected it.
Oh and when are they going to be finished the bandon drainage project, worst roads by a mile
"Weld" in the beacon bracket failed a mile from home so back to get a bolt to hold it together.
Stopped for a check and was leaking diesel, return line was off, took two attempts to fix that properly (cable ties were involved)
Stalled it in a junction and wouldn't start, had to hot wire the solenoid
5.5 hours door to door and the seat was a dream to travel on by comparison to the day I collected it.
Oh and when are they going to be finished the bandon drainage project, worst roads by a mile
JohnBoy
Well-Known Member
but then I wouldnt have worked out the bugs with the beacon, fuel return and ignition
Plus even on a backload I'd surely have been at least €200 to haul it 60 miles so for 5.5 hours work it wasn't terrible value.
Don’t forget to grease the front axle pivot
The grease nipple wasnt where the manual said it'd be, and I was under pressure to get rolling so it's still not done
Looked into the ignition issue yesterday, poor connection at the back of the switch. shortly before I stalled it I'd stupidly pulled in to let someone pass at a spot that was not nearly as smooth as it looked, must have gotten shaken off. gave the connector a bit of a squeeze and all good.
Now the biggest thing it needs is some hard work. breathing a little bit so hoping a few hours under load will help.
scoffcruddle
Well-Known Member
but then I wouldnt have worked out the bugs with the beacon, fuel return and ignition
Plus even on a backload I'd surely have been at least €200 to haul it 60 miles so for 5.5 hours work it wasn't terrible value.
The grease nipple wasnt where the manual said it'd be, and I was under pressure to get rolling so it's still not done
Looked into the ignition issue yesterday, poor connection at the back of the switch. shortly before I stalled it I'd stupidly pulled in to let someone pass at a spot that was not nearly as smooth as it looked, must have gotten shaken off. gave the connector a bit of a squeeze and all good.
Now the biggest thing it needs is some hard work. breathing a little bit so hoping a few hours under load will help.
Hope it isn’t breathing like ours was,feckin thing was like a steam train,turned out it had blown a hole in a piston,maybe it was getting a bit much diesel.
jf 850
Well-Known Member
There looks to be an awful lot of grass there , to be topping off?
Has the 4600 been moved on ?
JohnBoy
Well-Known Member
God no, shes had the 4600 since she was 12, it out ranks me by over 10 years.
But the 7610 is decidedly more comfy.
Yeah it's the field that was forestry that's going into agro forestry. We let grass grow long to let it root deep, but it's very stemmy.
Cutting it to encourage tillering and will just let it rot in. Do it the no harm at all.
But the 7610 is decidedly more comfy.
Yeah it's the field that was forestry that's going into agro forestry. We let grass grow long to let it root deep, but it's very stemmy.
Cutting it to encourage tillering and will just let it rot in. Do it the no harm at all.
JohnBoy
Well-Known Member
Have an oil leak behind one of the hubs, got the seal and started tearing it down.
How do I remove the fixed planetary gear? I've unbolted it but it doesn't seem to want to move, I didn't want to start bating on it.
ZF APL 325 I think
How do I remove the fixed planetary gear? I've unbolted it but it doesn't seem to want to move, I didn't want to start bating on it.
ZF APL 325 I think
Attachments
MF30
Well-Known Member
Try a pullers on it?
MF30
Well-Known Member
Only a bottle jack holding it up
johndeere6920s
Well-Known Member
Youl just have to try pryse it off.
Sometimes they have threaded holes that you can push them off with some bolts but not In your case.
JohnBoy
Well-Known Member
Finally got around to doing this seal. Is it normal for them to be insanely tight?
Putting a 2foot bar on the wheel studs it's taking two hands pushing fairly hard (for a desk jockey anyway) to turn the hub. And that's the same whether the hub nuts are loose or tight.
Is this normal and it'll free up as soon as it's in use?
Putting a 2foot bar on the wheel studs it's taking two hands pushing fairly hard (for a desk jockey anyway) to turn the hub. And that's the same whether the hub nuts are loose or tight.
Is this normal and it'll free up as soon as it's in use?
I did one in a 3cx once and it was pretty tight too, I rang ECI, who I had got the seals from, and the mechanic there said it was normal. It gave no bother after anyway
jf 850
Well-Known Member
Pump up the volume , DJ John Boy.
JohnBoy
Well-Known Member
Had a list of jobs to do to it today. Along with the hub the ignition switch has been a bit flaky since we got it and recently it's stopped charging. I was assuming that the two were related in some way but having dug a little deeper I was wrong.
Two terminals on the back of the ignition switch were flaky so I cut them off and crimped new ones before I started following the wire from the alternator lamp to alternator itself. Bulb is good and wiring too, but it's not lightning. Connecting the light cable to earth brings it on so it looks like the alternator is f*cked.
The guy we bought it from had replaced it, guessing QTP as other stuff on it was from there. Think I'll go genuine for the replacement or at least figure out the OEM.
Two terminals on the back of the ignition switch were flaky so I cut them off and crimped new ones before I started following the wire from the alternator lamp to alternator itself. Bulb is good and wiring too, but it's not lightning. Connecting the light cable to earth brings it on so it looks like the alternator is f*cked.
The guy we bought it from had replaced it, guessing QTP as other stuff on it was from there. Think I'll go genuine for the replacement or at least figure out the OEM.
Attachments
gone
Well-Known Member
Mahle only, not a lot dearer, might even be cheaper than OEM.
powerfarmer
Well-Known Member
It looks like a Bosch alternator to me that was fitted to 90s Ford Fiestas and Escorts , there was an identical Magnetti Marelli version too, there was a Lucas alternator with the same attachment points but the Lucas was slightly longer
( there was a plastic cover sticking out the back) which meant it wouldn't work as a direct replacement in some applications where space was tight.
Maybe take it to a good auto electrical factors and they should be able to match up something suitable.
Open it up and have a look, they're a simple enough design. Maybe the brushes might be stuck or worn although the rectifier module is a common failure on them.
Reminds me of a while back having a Massey not charging, no alternator output... Turned out the alternator fitted was a bit of an oddball a Motorola unit that MF only fitted for a short period... I got it repaired in the end
MeathMassey3
Well-Known Member
conaty has a 7610 in for breaking at the minute. It hasn't gone for the chop yet. Looks fairly genuine. Id give him a call and see. I have a friend who might have one too. I'll ask this weekend when i see him.