Hydraulic flow control solenoid.

It's a proportional cetop,basically your dial in the cab sets the position of the plunger.

If you remove the coil you should be able to mimic the position of the plunger by pushing the plunger from beneath,trouble is you need another stem to do this as the oil leaks out.
I've had the cast iron part off the aluminium back part and I could see the plunger in through one of the oil ports and it's going up and down as I wind the dial in the cab up and down. I can't understand how reversing the pipes could have done it in so easily. It's a beefy bit of metal. Is it possible something is missing between both those pistons or valves?. Should the top piston push down on the bottom relief valve to open it and let off some of the oil?. Nothing came out when I opened it up apart from those 2 valves in my pictures.
 
I take it the spring on the piston is used to move the valve to minimum flow and retract the solenoid? Does that black looking washer half way down the valve stop the valve going on through the valve body?
Thats it. With the solenoid at it's lowest setting that spring pulls the piston up and that is supposed to slow the chain. The little black ring stops the whole lot from going in to far as you said.
 
Thats it. With the solenoid at it's lowest setting that spring pulls the piston up and that is supposed to slow the chain. The little black ring stops the whole lot from going in to far as you said.
Hang on a minute!!!!! Should it not be the valve would be at max flow when no power is connected, as you have now?? The metering notches are at the lower end of the valve which indicates it moves inwards to reduce flow? Are there manual override poppets on the end of the solenoid that you can push with a screwdriver to operate the valve?
 
I've had the cast iron part off the aluminium back part and I could see the plunger in through one of the oil ports and it's going up and down as I wind the dial in the cab up and down. I can't understand how reversing the pipes could have done it in so easily. It's a beefy bit of metal. Is it possible something is missing between both those pistons or valves?. Should the top piston push down on the bottom relief valve to open it and let off some of the oil?. Nothing came out when I opened it up apart from those 2 valves in my pictures.

I doubt anything is missing,10 years or more since I had bother with a cetop jamming,I'm sure this was caused by muck from the probes,mine played up half a dozen times then has been fine since.

I'm trying to think of a way you could pipe up a tap to rule out the valve,one of the pipes on the valve is returning via the return the other would be flow.
 
Hang on a minute!!!!! Should it not be the valve would be at max flow when no power is connected, as you have now?? The metering notches are at the lower end of the valve which indicates it moves inwards to reduce flow? Are there manual override poppets on the end of the solenoid that you can push with a screwdriver to operate the valve?
Um you have me there. I was going on the dial tbh. The higher the number on it the faster the floor speed. At least that's what did happen when it was working but that pushes the piston in as I turn the dial up. I never tried working the floor with no power connected so I don't know but you would think it would just default to full speed which doesn't make sense with how that piston moves.
 
Should there be an o ring on the right hand side of the valve just where the last shoulder is? Looks to be a groove but that may just be a machining bit so that it’s a square corner rather than a rounded corner.
 
Few more detailed pics of it. See if anyone can see something I'm missing.
This is all the internals as they are inside
20190222_144732.jpg
The oil feed is here
20190222_144822.jpg
I'm almost certain this port is the pressure one to the motor
20190222_144858.jpg
This next port is the one that returns the oil to slow the motor down
20190222_144903.jpg
 
Here's a picture with the solenoid actuated valve or piston back in. You can just about see it in the top port
20190222_145436.jpg
Here I have the floor switched on and the potentiometer turned all the way up to extend the piston
20190222_145500.jpg
I have the relief valve in here and you can see the top of it in through the top port
20190222_145737.jpg
This is aluminium block that the solenoid bit is bolted to. The middle hole is the oil feed from the tractor, the bottom one goes to the motor and the top one is the return from that piston that's supposed to slow the motor. 20190222_145805.jpg
This is the 2 valves end on. All I can think of is should there be something between them both that as the top piston moves down it presses open the relief valve?.
20190222_145301.jpg
 
image.jpg
This diagram of an Aron valve might be of no use but it doesn't particularly show anything inside. Just Googled images of Aron valves...
Any chance of connecting air pressure to it and see what happens with a thumb placed over the outlets?
 
Here's a picture with the solenoid actuated valve or piston back in. You can just about see it in the top port
View attachment 63313
Here I have the floor switched on and the potentiometer turned all the way up to extend the piston
View attachment 63314
I have the relief valve in here and you can see the top of it in through the top port
View attachment 63315
This is aluminium block that the solenoid bit is bolted to. The middle hole is the oil feed from the tractor, the bottom one goes to the motor and the top one is the return from that piston that's supposed to slow the motor. View attachment 63316
This is the 2 valves end on. All I can think of is should there be something between them both that as the top piston moves down it presses open the relief valve?.
View attachment 63317
Well what a teaser!!! So it must be as you said that if the solenoid has no power the motor should be going as slow as possible. The top hole is the feed on the valve body A, the middle is the drain off port and as you said the bottom is motor supply, if you look the middle hole on the aluminium block is back to tank, think it picks up the drain off from that small relief (pic on previous page). I know it says the middle port is P but it has a arrow in the diagram away from the valve, the diagram shows B as the metered flow, am I making any sense????:wacko:
 
Excessive back pressure on the return line may not allow that valve to work properly as the spare oil can’t get away. But what could of got damaged when the pipes were the wrong way round??:unsure:
 
Only getting back to this now. I never thought about opening the return line to see what would happen. Worth a shot at this stage before I dump that solenoid job and stick in a manual flow control valve.
 
Only getting back to this now. I never thought about opening the return line to see what would happen. Worth a shot at this stage before I dump that solenoid job and stick in a manual flow control valve.
Don't give up on it as I want to know what's gone wrong.
 
Only getting back to this now. I never thought about opening the return line to see what would happen. Worth a shot at this stage before I dump that solenoid job and stick in a manual flow control valve.
When you say manual control valve do you mean a cable and lever to the cab? This would cost close to or more than a new part like what you have. But if it's just a tap on the line on the machine this won't do as I find you change the floor speed as the bale gets smaller to keep the straw flowing well.
 
When you say manual control valve do you mean a cable and lever to the cab? This would cost close to or more than a new part like what you have. But if it's just a tap on the line on the machine this won't do as I find you change the floor speed as the bale gets smaller to keep the straw flowing well.
I was thinking one of those ones you manually adjust to a certain setting or speed and thats it. Something like you'd see on the JD mowers for the grouper belt speed. I'd like to keep the leccy job it has if I can suss out what is wrong with it but it's annoying having to flick the floor on and off while chopping a bale. @Win i'm curious myself but if a different bypass doesn't work I don't know where else to look.
 
I was thinking one of those ones you manually adjust to a certain setting or speed and thats it. Something like you'd see on the JD mowers for the grouper belt speed. I'd like to keep the leccy job it has if I can suss out what is wrong with it but it's annoying having to flick the floor on and off while chopping a bale. @Win i'm curious myself but if a different bypass doesn't work I don't know where else to look.
Have you rang the O Connors about it for advice, they'd know them inside out. Failing that they'd pass you onto Nicholas Gainfort, he operated on the hydraulics on mine under warranty and sorted it. Different hydraulic problem though.
 
I haven't rang them. Usually I'd be able to fix these yokes myself but this one has me flummoxed as it appears to be working but yet nothing is happening when I wind the dial up or down. I'm not convinced at this stage that something hasn't split or broke when I reversed the pipes by accident and it's been blown into the backend of the tractor. If a separate return doesn't fix the issue then it has to be something gone missing from inside that valve block.
 
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