MF 6170 Lifter issue

Gilroy

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

Bringing in bales yesterday on double bale lifter then MF 6170 wouldnt drop lifter arms. Seems like lifter is up to the maximum and you could hear pressure on lifter valve.

Mechanic came and manually pushed two switches beside back wheel on the valve block and it worked. Lifter when up and down.

Then I started working again and same thing happened. This time it permanently staying up to maximum lift height and will not go down.

Any ideas, has anyone seen this issue and how do you resolve. Maybe sticky block valve??
 
Last edited:
Hi all,*

Bringing in bales yesterday on double bale lifter then MF 6170 wouldnt drop lifter arms. Seems like lifter is up to the maximum and you could hear pressure on lifter valve.

Mechanic came and manually pushed two switches beside back wheel on the valve block and it worked. Lifter when up and down.

Then I started working again and same thing happened. This time it permanently staying up to maximum lift height and will not go down.

Any ideas, has anyone seen this issue and how do you resolve. Maybe sticky block valve??
 
u can disconnect the push button switches by removing a panel in the back right hand side of the cab, think it is the one the two yellow buttons r in.

were u usng the rocker switch or buttons, where is the depth guage set?
 
I would disconnect the lift solinoid on the left hand cover, remove both if your not sure. if its still trying to pump after that then its probably mechanical or maybe lift solinoid is jamed on. if that stops the problem the your looking for an electrical fault.
 
I would disconnect the lift solinoid on the left hand cover, remove both if your not sure. if its still trying to pump after that then its probably mechanical or maybe lift solinoid is jamed on. if that stops the problem the your looking for an electrical fault.

When you say disconnect, do you mean remove both electrical plugs. How do you un jam?
 
u can disconnect the push button switches by removing a panel in the back right hand side of the cab, think it is the one the two yellow buttons r in.

were u usng the rocker switch or buttons, where is the depth guage set?

Yes using the rocker switches and twist dial. These all work but pressure on all the time on sol lift block.
 
When you say disconnect, do you mean remove both electrical plugs. How do you un jam?

yeah remove the electrical plugs, if it still trying to lift then must be something in the valve block or the solenoid is stuck on if thats possible.

ive not had solenoids out of mine before, but i believe you can swap the lift and lower ones around to test them. also if i thought the solenoid was stuck id give it a light chap with a hammer.

i know someone years ago on another forum had a similar problem on a 3075 and it was a small piece of broken handbrake disc holding a valve open, but eliminate everything else before digging into the block.
 
yeah remove the electrical plugs, if it still trying to lift then must be something in the valve block or the solenoid is stuck on if thats possible.

ive not had solenoids out of mine before, but i believe you can swap the lift and lower ones around to test them. also if i thought the solenoid was stuck id give it a light chap with a hammer.

i know someone years ago on another forum had a similar problem on a 3075 and it was a small piece of broken handbrake disc holding a valve open, but eliminate everything else before digging into the block.

Thanks will try this out as I think that is the problem.
 
Check the the lower link pins. Draft control sensor wires go into the pins. The bolt holding the pin can get lose causing the pin to twist breaking the wires causing lift to go haywire. If it is that you can just plug out the wires under the cab and it will work fine except for draft control
 
Check the the lower link pins. Draft control sensor wires go into the pins. The bolt holding the pin can get lose causing the pin to twist breaking the wires causing lift to go haywire. If it is that you can just plug out the wires under the cab and it will work fine except for draft control

Thats a strong possibility the 3075 here is like that one lower link pin sensor is disconected all the time
 
faulty position sensor maybe - its near the back on right hand side and is screwed in just above lift arms.

Could be sticking or broken.
Can be screwed out - but there is a process for putting it back in I'll dig it out
 
Note first check is to disconnect solenoid wires on lift valve and see if it works manually using the buttons on the vale itself.

If it works but lifts immediately when you reconnect then position sensor is next likely - I believe in some circumstances the cam on the inside that presses against the position sensor can bend.

The way to verify take out sensor and leave it connected - press it manually to see how lift reacts - if it works then suspect the internally cam.


After that it could be the instrument panel itself.
 

Attachments

  • possense.jpg
    possense.jpg
    18.5 KB · Views: 56
Note first check is to disconnect solenoid wires on lift valve and see if it works manually using the buttons on the vale itself.

If it works but lifts immediately when you reconnect then position sensor is next likely - I believe in some circumstances the cam on the inside that presses against the position sensor can bend.

The way to verify take out sensor and leave it connected - press it manually to see how lift reacts - if it works then suspect the internally cam.


After that it could be the instrument panel itself.

Issue now resolved. I removed the sensors and drained out the oil in the valve block. Removed the spring and any metal bits that maybe stuck in the block. Let the arm down and oil pressure off, then connected up the block again.

Started the tractor and arms lifted. Manually pressed buttons on the sensors and they worked to.

Mechanic said that sometimes you can get a bit of metal stuck in block that causes this. Problem solved for now. Hopefully that it....
 
Where's the metal from?....brakes?

He said that metal filings could be from brakes or handbrake. Checked it again this morning and still working fine.

If it happens again then it has to be the lift block valve itself.

The constant pressure pumping noise is gone aswell, the block valve heated up something else when the lifter arms where stuck high.
 
He said that metal filings could be from brakes or handbrake. Checked it again this morning and still working fine.

If it happens again then it has to be the lift block valve itself.

The constant pressure pumping noise is gone aswell, the block valve heated up something else when the lifter arms where stuck high.

Might be no harm to change the hydraulic filter and when you have the old one off cut it open and see what sort of crap is in it.
 
Hi i have a 6170
Just a couple of questions please.
Where about are these solenoids situated ?if i look right hand side of gearbox beneath i see several of them.
Another question . How do i manually override them ....i dont see any buttons on solenoid just a nut centre supposedly holding the plunger.
Any help would be appreciated
 
Hi i have a 6170
Just a couple of questions please.
Where about are these solenoids situated ?if i look right hand side of gearbox beneath i see several of them.
Another question . How do i manually override them ....i dont see any buttons on solenoid just a nut centre supposedly holding the plunger.
Any help would be appreciated

Both solenoids are on the Lhasa side one to the front and one to the back. There's like a rubber on the ends covering the plunger that you press to manual override the lift
 
Thanks alot. Yesterday i got very creative and built a circuit to manually activate the lifts as i think the compiter thing has had its day.....well all that done i tested it and it worked fine.....untill i landed in a little pothole with wheels ....i couldnt get out
The tractor revvved like and old cow but dead still. Wanted to but no power.
Got someone to tow me out ...on level ground shes fine......i am no mechanic but that sounds.torque converter or slipping clutch
 
Note first check is to disconnect solenoid wires on lift valve and see if it works manually using the buttons on the vale itself.

If it works but lifts immediately when you reconnect then position sensor is next likely - I believe in some circumstances the cam on the inside that presses against the position sensor can bend.

The way to verify take out sensor and leave it connected - press it manually to see how lift reacts - if it works then suspect the internally cam.


After that it could be the instrument panel itself.
Hi towbar, would you mind sending me the procedure for setting the lift position sensor? I can't quite make out the image attached in the thread above that you previously shared.
 
Back
Top