Reseeding

:no::no:
Ye are lucky lads. The last soil test done here 2 years ago stated that we needed to spread 10 ton to the acre to correct pH. We spread 2 ton per acre and it crowned some fields and ruined a few and left them very soft. I had a thread about a lime spreader last year for the simple reason that I believe the best way forward for us is half a ton per acre every 12 to 18 months. Lime has increased my grass growth by 30% over the last 2 years and decreased the amount of fertilizer that I need by 20%. But I certainly believe that for heavy land, shallow soils or boggy land, the key to lime is small and often. Most lads around here don't spread any at all. 17 in our discussion group and only 2 of us have spread lime in the last 10 years.
See how lucky i am when their are stones to be picked
 
Ye are lucky lads. The last soil test done here 2 years ago stated that we needed to spread 10 ton to the acre to correct pH. We spread 2 ton per acre and it crowned some fields and ruined a few and left them very soft. I had a thread about a lime spreader last year for the simple reason that I believe the best way forward for us is half a ton per acre every 12 to 18 months. Lime has increased my grass growth by 30% over the last 2 years and decreased the amount of fertilizer that I need by 20%. But I certainly believe that for heavy land, shallow soils or boggy land, the key to lime is small and often. Most lads around here don't spread any at all. 17 in our discussion group and only 2 of us have spread lime in the last 10 years.
Thinking out loud. But could it have been the type of lime that did the harm?
As innthat you used Calcium lime when Mag lime would have been best? Or vice versa.
Seem to recall some expurt telling us that using the wrong lime can make things react badly.
 
Thinking out loud. But could it have been the type of lime that did the harm?
As innthat you used Calcium lime when Mag lime would have been best? Or vice versa.
Seem to recall some expurt telling us that using the wrong lime can make things react badly.

I don't think it is but maybe I'm wrong. What we find is that a big dose of lime makes the top few inches of soil very soft. If like us, you only have a few inches of soil then you end up with very sloppy ground afterwards that doesn't stand up very well to grazing. What we were told was that applying what lime it needs year on year or max every 2 years would be a much better job on the type of ground that we have rather than the traditional way of applying every 5 years
 
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Well my contractor turned up this evening to level the field and give it a run of the power harrow while I picking some of the big stones, then he asked had I seeds and I had so he said he would seed it as well which was at 9pm now I've no lime out on it as I was expecting him to come back again so I was just wondering will it make any difference to the seeds to spread 2-3tonne/ of lime/acre on top of them. Normally I would have lime spread and then power harrow the seeds into the ground and then roll them in and then spread my fertilizer
 
Over seeding. Does it work? Is there any advantage to using coated seeds? I see coated seed with nitrogen in them being advertised and they are saying that its ideal for broadcasting onto ground with a spring Tyne harrow. Are they talking BS?
 
I used the agritech stuff a few years ago and ithelped a lot, didn't get great treatment but I was happy for the next four years, continual sheep grazing so a hard life.

doing the same this autumn, will get gran lime harrowed and rolled, p and k should be ok, its a short term fix provided you don't have major compaction issues
 
I think if you already have a good sward of perennial ryegrass that may be gone a bit thin from either lots of silage, poaching or drought then yes over seeding may work well. If you have an old sward full of scutch, annual meadow grasses, creeping bent and or weeds then no it's a waste. No experience of any seed treatments. How much per kg extra is the seed with the magic stuff.
 
I think if you already have a good sward of perennial ryegrass that may be gone a bit thin from either lots of silage, poaching or drought then yes over seeding may work well. If you have an old sward full of scutch, annual meadow grasses, creeping bent and or weeds then no it's a waste. No experience of any seed treatments. How much per kg extra is the seed with the magic stuff.

It's €57 per acre pack as opposed to €50 for the non magic variety
 
I didn't use it. I asked if anyone here has used it because I wanted to know what variety was in it and if it was any good.
But nobody knows what it is.
Mixes vary from brand to brand youd nearly want a name of it and a model number as I'd call it for anyone to know even then it might not be a popular brand of seed
 
Grass seed price is the last thing I would be price sensitive about. A 50kg bag of fert is €20. A suitable grass mix might save you 50 a year depending on your rates of fertiliser etc.

I would be very suspect about seed coatings,usually they can affect germination
 
But nobody knows what it is.
Mixes vary from brand to brand youd nearly want a name of it and a model number as I'd call it for anyone to know even then it might not be a popular brand of seed
There's only one company selling the stuff with nitrogen added. Well I can only find one. I only asked if anyone had used it. I have emailed the company but no reply yet
 
I think there was another 1 or 2 doing it too but not sure who they were.
I presume they can coat any grasseed mix with that stuff. I don't think they sell direct to farmers so ask your local merchant or coop that stocks a lot of grasseed and they probably deal with them.
As I said for overseeing use tetraploids at 10kgs per acre but some tell me the best way is using a direct drill after silage or extremely tightly grazed
 
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