they have to pay him protection money, last week was a months paymentAfter last weeks headlines can you be sure :sweat:
C
Cork
Guest
Just have to make a pedestrian door now (this weekends job, it’ll be a steel door, hot dipped and painted).
I cleaned down all external steel work so it was free of cement and dirt. Then two coats of good quality industrial paint.
Bitumen melted into the external expansion joints of the concrete.
Very happy with the job in general. Must do a soakaway for the down pipes.
I cleaned down all external steel work so it was free of cement and dirt. Then two coats of good quality industrial paint.
Bitumen melted into the external expansion joints of the concrete.
Very happy with the job in general. Must do a soakaway for the down pipes.
C
Cork
Guest
If the price of grain was to rise! Who knows down the line. It wouldn’t have massive capacity as a grain store in reality.
C
Cork
Guest
Thanks MF, good suggestion about water for the sprayer. I don’t think I will though as this place is a couple of miles from our yard, our spray store is there and there’s a good water supply.
C
Cork
Guest
Made a pedestrian door yesterday. Just making sure it fits before getting it hot dipped.
2mm plate. I’ll add two more cross members to minimize warping of the sheet from the hot dipping.
It’s bloody heavy already, must be 150kg.
Heavy hinges with bearings in them from Brownlows. Good quality inset lock.
If they want to get in with a consaw then they will but I won’t have anything besides a few machines in there anyway. Opening inwards means the hinges are away from weather and cutting.
I’ll cut off the hinges before dipping as the galvanize would seize them. I’ll be painting it afterwards anyway.
The vertical sides of the frame were made from 2” flat, two lenghts on each side welded to form a “T” shape. This creates a flat outer surface to cover the adjoining wall/pillar and an inward facing side to make a jam for the door. All designed in my head, no CAD here and barely a measuring tape! If the frame was 1mm longer then it wouldn’t fit!
2mm plate. I’ll add two more cross members to minimize warping of the sheet from the hot dipping.
It’s bloody heavy already, must be 150kg.
Heavy hinges with bearings in them from Brownlows. Good quality inset lock.
If they want to get in with a consaw then they will but I won’t have anything besides a few machines in there anyway. Opening inwards means the hinges are away from weather and cutting.
I’ll cut off the hinges before dipping as the galvanize would seize them. I’ll be painting it afterwards anyway.
The vertical sides of the frame were made from 2” flat, two lenghts on each side welded to form a “T” shape. This creates a flat outer surface to cover the adjoining wall/pillar and an inward facing side to make a jam for the door. All designed in my head, no CAD here and barely a measuring tape! If the frame was 1mm longer then it wouldn’t fit!
Mayo man
Well-Known Member
Fine shed , I’ll give ya a price to light it up
Paw
Well-Known Member
Don't forget to take the lock off as well
Mf240
Well-Known Member
Be easier to just pull out a side sheet to get in. But hopefully that won't ever happen
C
Cork
Guest
Yes, definitely but the walls are 7ft high so not so easy.
The best anything can be is a deterrent.
MF30
Well-Known Member
That's a real precision job there Cork. Don't forget expansion on a hot day might jam your door at those tolerances! Seriously I wouldn't bother galvanising your door as I made an identical door for the chemical store here, gave it two good coats of primer and two good coats of oxide green and it's perfect 15 years later. The galvanising will buckle the sheeting possibly even with bracing and it'll save you cutting the hinges and lock etc. But you've done a great job so far and if a galvanised door is part of the plan then full speed ahead!
C
Cork
Guest
You’ve me worried now! I think I’ve a good bit of tolerance between the door and frame. I have a deep seated intolerance of rust so I’d say I’ll chance the galvanize. I was on to Galco today.
Won’t bother with Irish Pioneer again as they were too keen on making holes in metalwork (Galco might be no better!).
Paw
Well-Known Member
Any tubing/box-section will need a hole in each end.
nashmach
Well-Known Member
I take it that it is beside the N2?
towbar
Well-Known Member
Not far but not on n2 it's on the Ardee link road between n2 and m1
nashmach
Well-Known Member
Seedsower
Well-Known Member
Nice work there @CORK .
The T frame is a clever idea.
Does anyone have experience of insulated cladding.
I'm putting either 100 or 120mm kingspan on a narrow shed.
10 feet between the walls.would it be very cheeky to support the roof on the walls only?
The shed is an old cow shed being converted for human use so a neat looking job is important. No ceilings as the roof is low enough.
The T frame is a clever idea.
Does anyone have experience of insulated cladding.
I'm putting either 100 or 120mm kingspan on a narrow shed.
10 feet between the walls.would it be very cheeky to support the roof on the walls only?
The shed is an old cow shed being converted for human use so a neat looking job is important. No ceilings as the roof is low enough.
MF30
Well-Known Member
One support will be needed between the 10ft, the cladding might survive without it until a fall of snow or a seagull lands on it!
C
Cork
Guest
Door for the shed is hot dipped, hinges and lock fitted. Spray painted and ready for fitting.
I think the door will still be in existence 100’s of years after the shed has gone.
I think the door will still be in existence 100’s of years after the shed has gone.