What are you up to in the workshop?

[towbar]

one way i just thought of to prevent it sitting up on a curve is make triangular or curved extensions for both sides of the spreader, so if the load is heaped, wouldnt look as ugly

I have a cover for a Amazone Zau spreader don’t use it as always empty it and never spreadong in wet. Wouldn’t be hard to part with it.

 

[Win]

I thought that was the one you meant when I saw it! If it works as it is how about chop it off behind the cross beam the rams mount to then weld a new rail down the inside of the current chassis the whole way from the front beam to the hinge points then mount the new running gear to this? I’d imagine the brakes would only be catching the lower chassis and not the body rails?

Yes could do that, and your right it would only be catching the bottom chassis. Its on rockers now and would like to go to springs which means the lower chassis going slightly further back to attach the spring hanger to, did enquire about a bogie type spring set up but a lot more expensive and if one broke very expensive to replace. If I went with the single chassis I could use a commercial type spring set up which would attach direct to the commercial axles and would also work out the correct height with the spring being under slung on the axle. Decisions, decisions!!!!
Maybe incorporate a sprung drawbar in if it was a hydraulic drawbar type?

 

[drew]

one way i just thought of to prevent it sitting up on a curve is make triangular or curved extensions for both sides of the spreader, so if the load is heaped, wouldnt look as ugly but how would i prevent the tarp from collapsing inwards at the top?

You’d need to add a light strip of flat to the cover, even a few lengths of light timber would probably hold it up depending how heavy the cover is. The Amazone cover here has 2 light stainless pipes in it to keep it up

Yes could do that, and your right it would only be catching the bottom chassis. Its on rockers now and would like to go to springs which means the lower chassis going slightly further back to attach the spring hanger to, did enquire about a bogie type spring set up but a lot more expensive and if one broke very expensive to replace. If I went with the single chassis I could use a commercial type spring set up which would attach direct to the commercial axles and would also work out the correct height with the spring being under slung on the axle. Decisions, decisions!!!!
Maybe incorporate a sprung drawbar in if it was a hydraulic drawbar type?

Will the rear hanger for the spring be that much further back than the slightly bigger wheel though? Could you get away with moving the hinge point to being within the chassis directly over the spring hanger?”

 

[matbro]

one way i just thought of to prevent it sitting up on a curve is make triangular or curved extensions for both sides of the spreader, so if the load is heaped, wouldnt look as ugly but how would i prevent the tarp from collapsing inwards at the top?

Is there anyway you could make a hardtop out of inch box arranged in a square with galvanize screwed or rivited to it, make it in 4 pieces hinged to the next, except the middle from one side of the tractor to the other with the galvanise overlapping the next piece like how roof slating is done, then fold each pair down the sides and latch them in with a trailer ramp latch.

 

[c4l]

You’d need to add a light strip of flat to the cover, even a few lengths of light timber would probably hold it up depending how heavy the cover is. The Amazone cover here has 2 light stainless pipes in it to keep it up

this tarp stuff is light enough so probably getaway with using one at the top. anyway once i get some time over summer holidays, i'll give it a go, and for the mudguard extension might just cut a bit of tarp and find some way of wrapping it around the steps. that way i wont do any physical damage to the tractors. just for originality sake

 

[Win]

You’d need to add a light strip of flat to the cover, even a few lengths of light timber would probably hold it up depending how heavy the cover is. The Amazone cover here has 2 light stainless pipes in it to keep it up


Will the rear hanger for the spring be that much further back than the slightly bigger wheel though? Could you get away with moving the hinge point to being within the chassis directly over the spring hanger?”

No it would be much further back, if the lower chassis was narrower than the upper rail they would pass each other as it tipped up without colliding.

 

[scoffcruddle]

It still wouldn't amount to the same as two commercials tbh.

Your bottom pic is my trailer now, so do I do the same style or just the drawbar as in the top pic??

1st pic was a trailer kipper made when on BFF

2nd is a wolds trailer I saw advertised

Yes 3rds your trailer.

I be keeping your top and making a new chassis with commercial running gear,ideally you want underslung springs to keep the height low.

If I ever do mine I’m using an air suspension underslung bogey off a box trailer I bought.

 

[Danielk]

So bought this Harrow back in January. Few things I didn’t like about it but had a good strong frame and crumblers so bought it. Only cost €950. Only took it out of the shed this morning after all the work. Took a lot longer than I had originally expected.
Has all new tines as the older tines were a lot snaller and weaker looking. Cut out all the bars and welded in heavier bars for the new tines. Made new strainer bars for it from headstock back to the back bar as old ones were bent. Then as the new tines had risen the Harrow I had to modify the crumblers to suit the new height. Also made all new levelling bars. Headstock was also changed as the way it was the top link was nearly out to its final tress to get it on. It has all been primed and then painted. Yet again a lot more painting than first taught. Never added everything up but reckon it’s cost around €1100 in parts and steel and paint so it’s standing me €2000 plus my time (lots of late nights after work). Let’s hope it does good work now.

 

[Danielk]

Old tines vs new tines. Both with new tips.

 

[JohnBoy]

That's a fine job Daniel, will last you a hell of a long time now before you should have to lay a hand on it

 

[nashmach]

Lovely job Daniel. It might look like a lot of work now but you will be glad to have it done and have a good machine to boot at this stage.:Thumbp2:

 

[BasilSeal]

This is the reinforcing i did on the loadall boom, it's a prototype machine and in the production machines they use a plate on top of the boom to stop the cracking that's happened to mine, i've made the plates from a scrap boom outer casing, the cut outs were done with a three inch staret cutter in the mag drill, which took a bit of winding out in the hard boom steel, they're there to stop the weld stress cracking.

 

[c4l]

turns out my grand plans for the fert spreader cover i was gonna make over the summer is thrown right out the window. the old man after buy a spreader with a cover for 250 from a guy over the road from us. cover seems to be in good nick but the hopper leaves something to be desired. ohh well, might use that tarp that is lying around for stopping shit from getting onto the steps of the tractors

 

[mixed fleet]

This is the reinforcing i did on the loadall boom, it's a prototype machine and in the production machines they use a plate on top of the boom to stop the cracking that's happened to mine, i've made the plates from a scrap boom outer casing, the cut outs were done with a three inch staret cutter in the mag drill, which took a bit of winding out in the hard boom steel, they're there to stop the weld stress cracking.


View attachment 64467 View attachment 64468 View attachment 64469 View attachment 64470 View attachment 64471 View attachment 64472 View attachment 64473

Roughly what x what is the boom.
Your a brave man to take that job on with a stick welder.
If ever there was a job for MIG.

 

[BasilSeal]

Roughly what x what is the boom.
Your a brave man to take that job on with a stick welder.
If ever there was a job for MIG.

that was done with an engine driven DC set, i do have a mig but stick tends to give better penetration for a structural job like that. TBH i would have used the mig but my friend Iain who is a coded welder persuaded me that the stick would give a better result and i think he was right, it hasn't broken yet anyway.

 

[Arthur]

This is the reinforcing i did on the loadall boom, it's a prototype machine and in the production machines they use a plate on top of the boom to stop the cracking that's happened to mine, i've made the plates from a scrap boom outer casing, the cut outs were done with a three inch staret cutter in the mag drill, which took a bit of winding out in the hard boom steel, they're there to stop the weld stress cracking.


View attachment 64467 View attachment 64468 View attachment 64469 View attachment 64470 View attachment 64471 View attachment 64472 View attachment 64473

That's a fair lump of metal to manhandle.

 

[BasilSeal]

That's a fair lump of metal to manhandle.

yeah, it was before i got the proper welding bench so it was balanced on those rickety wooden trestles but they did the job. I've basically copied what they do on the production machines but the plate is longer, from memory it's got two holes in it rather than the three on a factory machine, mine may be overkill but i had the metal and it was going onto a boom that was cracked already so it seemed like the best way to go. you can see in the 5th picture that i've tailed the weld past the end of the plate to avoid creating a stress point that will crack, likewise i haven't welded the back edge in the last pic, that's deliberate to allow for flex / prevent cracking, that was on the advice of my welding expert friend but it's also how JCB do it.

 

[AYF]

Have a treatment plant cover slap bang in the middle of our garden. And the damn this is plastic. And every child that enters the garden must insist on walking on it, which has me a bit paranoid! The thing is rated to drive a ride on mower over.... But plastic is plastic and I'd rather not scoop a child out of a septic tank! So got on with some woodwork today!



The reciprocating saw came in very useful in cutting an arch into a 4x3.

 

[John6610]

that was done with an engine driven DC set, i do have a mig but stick tends to give better penetration for a structural job like that. TBH i would have used the mig but my friend Iain who is a coded welder persuaded me that the stick would give a better result and i think he was right, it hasn't broken yet anyway.

That was good information from your friend 100% right

 

[fraserb]

Had the plasma out.

 

[massey 6480]

Finally have the mole plough near finished just needs a disc added . Thanks @muckymanor & @jackc for the measurements . Did a neat enough job with no disc today on a trial run . With only one issue arising. Had only a 20 mm bolt and a length of 20 mm threaded bar as pins holding on the leg . First big stone and threaded bar snapped resulting in the leg going back and breaking through the back plate . Back plate trimmed and using 20mm steel bar . It worked away fine . But the bar got fair abuse and not a long term solution. Question is should I keep using mild steel bar for the pins as a sort of break away or lock it up solid. Is there a breakaway on the proper ones ? Blade still has to be able to move up or down for different depths .

 

[mixed fleet]

Finally have the mole plough near finished just needs a disc added . Thanks @muckymanor & @jackc for the measurements . Did a neat enough job with no disc today on a trial run . With only one issue arising. Had only a 20 mm bolt and a length of 20 mm threaded bar as pins holding on the leg . First big stone and threaded bar snapped resulting in the leg going back and breaking through the back plate . Back plate trimmed and using 20mm steel bar . It worked away fine . But the bar got fair abuse and not a long term solution. Question is should I keep using mild steel bar for the pins as a sort of break away or lock it up solid. Is there a breakaway on the proper ones ? Blade still has to be able to move up or down for different depths .

I'd be keeping the bolts or pins.
Threaded bar is very soft. I'd get an 8.8 bolt not fully threaded and have it that it's shearing on the solid bit

 

[johndeere6920s]

I'd be keeping the bolts or pins.
Threaded bar is very soft. If get an 8.8 bolt not fully threaded and have it that it's shearing on the solid bit

Treaded bar is only 4.8 tensile strength

 

[eddie86]

Finally have the mole plough near finished just needs a disc added . Thanks @muckymanor & @jackc for the measurements . Did a neat enough job with no disc today on a trial run . With only one issue arising. Had only a 20 mm bolt and a length of 20 mm threaded bar as pins holding on the leg . First big stone and threaded bar snapped resulting in the leg going back and breaking through the back plate . Back plate trimmed and using 20mm steel bar . It worked away fine . But the bar got fair abuse and not a long term solution. Question is should I keep using mild steel bar for the pins as a sort of break away or lock it up solid. Is there a breakaway on the proper ones ? Blade still has to be able to move up or down for different depths .

I'd bore the holes out and use something like the lift arm pins. Plenty metal there for bigger holes.

 

[hanixman]

Finally have the mole plough near finished just needs a disc added . Thanks @muckymanor & @jackc for the measurements . Did a neat enough job with no disc today on a trial run . With only one issue arising. Had only a 20 mm bolt and a length of 20 mm threaded bar as pins holding on the leg . First big stone and threaded bar snapped resulting in the leg going back and breaking through the back plate . Back plate trimmed and using 20mm steel bar . It worked away fine . But the bar got fair abuse and not a long term solution. Question is should I keep using mild steel bar for the pins as a sort of break away or lock it up solid. Is there a breakaway on the proper ones ? Blade still has to be able to move up or down for different depths .

nice job maybe something like these https://www.agri-linc.com/sumo-shear-bar-to-suit-all-mounted-trio-39-s-oem-swb160.html
i seen them working on a trio once and thought it was a tasty way of doing it