What are you up to in the workshop?

Not so much the workshop but the house.
I have grey windows which seem to like expanding and popping the lower bit of rendering off the reviel.
Went at it to re do them over the weekend. Did what I thought was a proper job. Sprayed with water to keep them from going off to fast etc. And put in a gap between the cill and render to try and accomodate expansion.
All but 3 of the 10 corners are blown this morning.
Any advice?
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Never heard of that happening before, maybe best to kango back to the block, and start afresh with a good rough scratch coat.
Its the kind of job I would leave to a plasterer tbh. (just not the guy that plastered your wall)
 
Never heard of that happening before, maybe best to kango back to the block, and start afresh with a good rough scratch coat.
Its the kind of job I would leave to a plasterer tbh. (just not the guy that plastered your wall)
I was warned by the window man that grey windows had a bad habit of expanding more than white plastic. The windows are south facing too which doesn't help. All the north facing ones are fine so does make sense.

Tbh I'm starting to think I may hack the reviels and put plastic on them.
 
Would it work to leave a 10mm gap between the window frame and the plaster and fill the void with silicone to act as an expansion joint?
 
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I was warned by the window man that grey windows had a bad habit of expanding more than white plastic. The windows are south facing too which doesn't help. All the north facing ones are fine so does make sense.

Tbh I'm starting to think I may hack the reviels and put plastic on them.
Grey Windows on a south facing house here, no bother at all.
 
That's what I'd be thinking too, just something better than silicone if you can get it
You’re right I’d go with Tec7, I find it good. I see they do a tub of filler now for sealing gaps, said it remained flexible for 40yrs, ideal for AYF’s job
 
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Not so much the workshop but the house.
I have grey windows which seem to like expanding and popping the lower bit of rendering off the reviel.
Went at it to re do them over the weekend. Did what I thought was a proper job. Sprayed with water to keep them from going off to fast etc. And put in a gap between the cill and render to try and accomodate expansion.
All but 3 of the 10 corners are blown this morning.
Any advice?
View attachment 69983

What material are the windows made from, is it aluminum?
If you mix cement only and water into a paste, put a scud of that onto the surface that you are plastering, it will make a rough surface and act as a key to hold the new plaster
 
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What material are the windows made from, is it aluminum?
If you mix cement only and water into a paste, put a scud of that onto the surface that you are plastering, it will make a rough surface and act as a key to hold the new plaster
Plastic.
Yeah something for it to bond onto would be a good job.
 
While rooting around in an old box of tips I found a stash of these blades, anyone know what they're from? They're at least 30 years old.
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Also found a large bucket of pulleys, possibly had been cast for a beet harvester but not sure either...all new.
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The blades look like they are off a straw chopper on a combine. Would a bearing fit in the pulleys if not they are off a yellow narrow belt beet harvester. Is PJ Ryan stamped in the casting.
 
The blades look like they are off a straw chopper on a combine. Would a bearing fit in the pulleys if not they are off a yellow narrow belt beet harvester. Is PJ Ryan stamped in the casting.
Don't know where the blades came from then as we never had a straw chopper. Some pulleys have bearings fitted, the rest haven't been machined out to take a bearing yet. No stamp on the casting as my father in laws brother used to make wooden patterns as models to make castings for various items so he made them. It was then passed to my father in law to machine then out for the final job. Both men are no longer with us so no one knows what or who they were designated for. I'm doing a bit of autumn cleaning in sheds here, found the original tool kit that came with the Leyland 262 forty years ago. Cat one spare balls for lift arms and top link, wheelbrace, various other bits that we'd stored safely that you wouldn't really use. Nothing lost.
 
I'm making a small linisher/belt grinder

Have the parts bought for the last year but only getting around to some fabrication now

Nice one look foward to see it finished . Iv two motors here i could use for one in future if it wasnt too big of a job .
 
the Krone baler comfort display was playing up during baling. It worked fine but frequently the display would just show random characters so you had to listen for the beeps. Anyway pulled it apart and after a bit of trial and error realised the ribbon cable to the display was faulty. One to watch for anyone that has a krone as the ribbon cable is not a great design with no strain relief and non matching ends. Cut it and recrimped in the vice and seems ok.

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the Krone baler comfort display was playing up during baling. It worked fine but frequently the display would just show random characters so you had to listen for the beeps. Anyway pulled it apart and after a bit of trial and error realised the ribbon cable to the display was faulty. One to watch for anyone that has a krone as the ribbon cable is not a great design with no strain relief and non matching ends. Cut it and recrimped in the vice and seems ok.

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No way am I taking the garden shears to any of my control boxes
 
another wee project I didn't get to post - sorry pictures not great. Knowing straw was not in demand we knocked this up to help gather in the bales was a great help and meant we had 5 at a time but also the mrs to be fair helped me out one morning with the 135.

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The wee plasma was a life saver now that I figured out how to work it properly - had being driving too much air through it. Simple home circle cutter drilled in a self tapper and a hole for the torch in the right place.
Also I filled all the box iron with punch outs as I wanted the bale carrier to act as a ballast for the loader. Have about 120kg of weights in addition to the steel work.

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the Krone baler comfort display was playing up during baling. It worked fine but frequently the display would just show random characters so you had to listen for the beeps. Anyway pulled it apart and after a bit of trial and error realised the ribbon cable to the display was faulty. One to watch for anyone that has a krone as the ribbon cable is not a great design with no strain relief and non matching ends. Cut it and recrimped in the vice and seems ok.

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what way u getting on with the krone, like it alright
 
what way u getting on with the krone, like it alright
last year was good this year the net got tangled a few times around the rubber roller which is a right pain - I didn't have time to fix but I think I'll clean the net feed rollers better before start of next season.
 
last year was good this year the net got tangled a few times around the rubber roller which is a right pain - I didn't have time to fix but I think I'll clean the net feed rollers better before start of next season.


the stripper plate above the roller is most likely the issue, were the net feeds in. I fitted a new one and sorted all my problems has to be up tight.

to get at the nuts that hold it if u open the side and lift knife up to the highest point, push the tension pulley down by hand to the knife arm/roller is at the top of the quarter circle. then carefully reach a spanner up behind the bolts on the plate, there is just enough room, think I had a stubby 19mm for it in the toolbox, it bottoms out and holds. the bolts are allenkey and just fit new, stainless.

doesn't make sense but will when u are doing it, the plate has to be tight up, I made one and it helped but the new one was the best and not to dear. you can also poke the net down into the bale if the net messes up on the left hand side with a stick, just look for the gap after the two rollers.
 
these are some pictures of a muck grab i've been making. these pics show the setting out of the bushes, i tacked the bushes into the holes with it clamped down to the welding bench, then test fitted the tines and put them top a straight edge to make sure they sat level, i didn't do that when i made a new tine bar for the shear grab and the tines didn't site level so i wasn't being caught out like that again.

then the later pics show the back plate being cut to fit round the side tines. i've gone for a 3mm sheet of plate rather than cross bars as i think this is a neater solution, the frame is 80mm box.
 

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these are some pictures of a muck grab i've been making. these pics show the setting out of the bushes, i tacked the bushes into the holes with it clamped down to the welding bench, then test fitted the tines and put them top a straight edge to make sure they sat level, i didn't do that when i made a new tine bar for the shear grab and the tines didn't site level so i wasn't being caught out like that again.

then the later pics show the back plate being cut to fit round the side tines. i've gone for a 3mm sheet of plate rather than cross bars as i think this is a neater solution, the frame is 80mm box.
Nice work.
The fourm needs more of this and less talk about brexit
 
I haven't got to the bit where i weld the design of the EU flag onto the backplate yet....

This shows some more work on the main frame and the turrets for the top grab. A friend of mine gave me a scrap grab with knackered tine in it, i did originally intend to just replace the worn tines and patch the old grab up, but it turned out that the tine bushes were too worn to get the tines tight and it was too rough to spend time replacing the tine bar as the rest of the grab was poor, so i ended up making a new grab from scratch to the design of the old one, with some alterations like the solid back plate.

I got the welding bench from an auction and it's proved very useful for jobs like this where you need to clamp things down to keep them square.
 

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