What are you up to in the workshop?

these photos, possibly not in the right order, show the construction of the top grab and fixing the euro brackets on the back, see if you can spot the non deliberate mistake i made with the loader brackets, which fortunately i was able to get round with the help of the angle grinder.
 

Attachments

  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10124.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10124.jpg
    227 KB · Views: 91
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10118.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10118.jpg
    120.3 KB · Views: 290
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10119.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10119.jpg
    149.7 KB · Views: 88
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10120.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10120.jpg
    127.3 KB · Views: 86
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10121.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10121.jpg
    194.2 KB · Views: 88
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10122.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10122.jpg
    203.6 KB · Views: 87
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10123.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10123.jpg
    174.2 KB · Views: 88
This mistake ?
index.php
 
these photos, possibly not in the right order, show the construction of the top grab and fixing the euro brackets on the back, see if you can spot the non deliberate mistake i made with the loader brackets, which fortunately i was able to get round with the help of the angle grinder.
The brackets are a bit high so the buttress for the rams sticks out in line with the top bar of the quick attach
 
This mistake ?
index.php

Well spotted, it looks obvious in the picture but i'd got it welded up before i noticed it. obviously the euro hooks at the top foul the wbs on the ram turrets, when i designed this i copied the original with a few tweeks, and i had the profiles laser cut out by my mates engineering firm. i made the webs on those brackets come down square with a curved return at the bottom but i modified them with the grinder so they came down at an angle , to leave a triangular web that didn't found (just) the euro hooks, but which wouldn't compromise the strength because the curved return was just for neatness the triangual bit is where the strength is. seems to have worked ok anyway.
 
It was an annoying mistake and i still can't believe i didn't notice it until i'd finished welding them on, they could have either been mounted a bit lower, or they would have needed to be stepped of a bit to avoid fouling, but both those solutions require more metal to be welded on and in many ways how they are is the neatest solution in the end.
 
anyway, before i go and get some work do, here are the final set of photos of the build showing the construction of the top grab, i've used some lining bars to get the brackets for the top grab and rams lining up with each other, ie put a long length of bar the same size as the pins through both brackets and clamped it all up before welding. then i've welded the strengthening webs into the top grab in situ to stop it distorting with the heat.
 

Attachments

  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10124.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10124.jpg
    227 KB · Views: 93
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10125.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10125.jpg
    108.9 KB · Views: 89
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10126.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10126.jpg
    162.9 KB · Views: 93
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10127.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10127.jpg
    173.2 KB · Views: 94
  • 2018_0624ebayphotos10128.jpg
    2018_0624ebayphotos10128.jpg
    217.2 KB · Views: 92
Great job. :Thumbp2:
Is that red a primer or what way did you prepare it?

It's just a red oxide primer brush painted on, it looks a better finish in the photo than it is in real life, i'll take a photo of the finished item now it's been in use a bit, the paint's gone faded as red oxide usually does but the majority of it's still on. It is problematic getting paint to stick to new metal
 
I haven't got to the bit where i weld the design of the EU flag onto the backplate yet....

This shows some more work on the main frame and the turrets for the top grab. A friend of mine gave me a scrap grab with knackered tine in it, i did originally intend to just replace the worn tines and patch the old grab up, but it turned out that the tine bushes were too worn to get the tines tight and it was too rough to spend time replacing the tine bar as the rest of the grab was poor, so i ended up making a new grab from scratch to the design of the old one, with some alterations like the solid back plate.

I got the welding bench from an auction and it's proved very useful for jobs like this where you need to clamp things down to keep them square.

Serious job:Thumbp2: . Welding table looks a great job what size is it ?
 
without going to measure it it's about two meters by one meter, which is a handy size for a smaller workshop, i've seen much bigger ones if you're not careful there's no room for anything else. had a steel table of a similar size before with box legs and 12mm sheet of plate as the top which was good for most things but didn't have the advantage of the t slots. I've put that outside the workshop door if i need to work on anything out there, but i can always bring it back with the pallet forks and use it as an extension to the slotted table if needed so that works well.

Those clamps i'm using are actually milling clamps but work the same as hold down clamps. i bought a cupboard and contents at an auction a while back and they were in a box sat next to the cupboard, and the lads doing the sale said oh, you may as well have them as well. They're called Lenzke clamps, i think they're about £150 each to buy them properly. I've got more of the clamping arms than i have of the bodies, so i've been looking for spare bodies on ebay to make mine complete but they don't come up very often and when they do they aren't cheap.
 
Cleaning the rad on the JD 6610 and found a wire hanging.
Leads to the top of one of the rads.
Other end appears well rotten and not recently connected.
Everything appears to be working.
Looks like it should wind up at the battery!

Screenshot_20190928-223548_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20190928-223544_Gallery.jpg
 
Is the one going to the battery terminal the same one as the top pic, a earth?
Its the same type cable as the small black ones on the batery. And was hanging in that direction. So earth would make sense.
 
Yes intermittent would be nice to have at times and sometimes a washer aswell.
Did you put intermittent on yours, thought you mentioned it on here before?
Have you both them mounted on bracked on the hole door hindges ? How do you work out the angles and area needed to cover .
Yeah welded a bracket on the hinge and the wipers drop into it. Bit of trial and error to get angles right, the one doing the door is off a freelander and covers about 110 degrees and the one on the window is off a Isuzu trooper and does 90 degrees, both are off the rear doors.
 
Did you put intermittent on yours, thought you mentioned it on here before?

Yeah welded a bracket on the hinge and the wipers drop into it. Bit of trial and error to get angles right, the one doing the door is off a freelander and covers about 110 degrees and the one on the window is off a Isuzu trooper and does 90 degrees, both are off the rear doors.

Tidy job id say it makes a big difference
 
Did you put intermittent on yours, thought you mentioned it on here before?

.
Its still in the pipeline, the odd day I wish I had it and the rest of the time when its raining constant its fine, just when there isn't enough rain and the blade runs dry after a stroke or 2 it can be a pain flicking it on and off.
 
Did you put intermittent on yours, thought you mentioned it on here before?

Yeah welded a bracket on the hinge and the wipers drop into it. Bit of trial and error to get angles right, the one doing the door is off a freelander and covers about 110 degrees and the one on the window is off a Isuzu trooper and does 90 degrees, both are off the rear doors.
Think the one from a Ford Fiesta rear window would work on the small window also
 
Back
Top