What are you up to in the workshop?

mixed fleet said:
Shouldn't be that dear to replace if you have to. I replaced one on a massey (heavy steering problem) about €300 if I remember right.
Danfoss make most of them, so can be got spurious.
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Mines a donfass alright. Somebody already was at it and lost all d internals so it cant be rebuilt. Where can a spurious be got google isnt helpful this morning. I think my pump is similar to whats in a 300 and 3000 series massey
 
bk1991 said:
My neighbours quickie q36 soft drive is not working i checked and theres power at the solenoid and i took solenoid of at loader and powered it with battery is small click but not putting pressure if i hold valve closed the power wont open it . Any ideas ??
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It went on mine about a year ago, it was the accumulator that was gone, diaphragm burst, filling gas side with oil, which made it solid
 
bk1991 said:
My neighbours quickie q36 soft drive is not working i checked and theres power at the solenoid and i took solenoid of at loader and powered it with battery is small click but not putting pressure if i hold valve closed the power wont open it . Any ideas ??
Click to expand...

One way to find if the coil is faulty is to use a strong magnet instead of it.
 
I was on the way to the ferry early one January morning with a load of gear in a vw pickup. A 'nice' load to make the journey worthwhile. Just as I neared the ferry terminal I heard a strange vibration from the rear wheel then bang. managed to pull up and the wheel drum was sitting on the inside edge of the rim. All 5 studs had sheared at half 6 in the morning, Belfast port. Nightmare. Rang insurance, road side assistance. Noone available til 8. Had a good while to think about it all. Where would I get studs, probably need a hub as wheel cos the sheared threads are never coming out...a fortune. Eventually the recovery lad rang and organised to go get studs from a motor factors and said he'd be down in 45 mins. Duly arrived with a jack, cordless drill, easy outs and a vice grips....not even a tapping handle mind. I said here we go...the little shop of horrors..

He proceeded to drill thru each stud and they wound out effortlessly. When they have sheared like that the stress is gone, the slightest turn and they work out.

My advice, try and shear the bastard and do the same..... Would never have believed it.
 
whichwire said:
I was on the way to the ferry early one January morning with a load of gear in a vw pickup. A 'nice' load to make the journey worthwhile. Just as I neared the ferry terminal I heard a strange vibration from the rear wheel then bang. managed to pull up and the wheel drum was sitting on the inside edge of the rim. All 5 studs had sheared at half 6 in the morning, Belfast port. Nightmare. Rang insurance, road side assistance. Noone available til 8. Had a good while to think about it all. Where would I get studs, probably need a hub as wheel cos the sheared threads are never coming out...a fortune. Eventually the recovery lad rang and organised to go get studs from a motor factors and said he'd be down in 45 mins. Duly arrived with a jack, cordless drill, easy outs and a vice grips....not even a tapping handle mind. I said here we go...the little shop of horrors..

He proceeded to drill thru each stud and they wound out effortlessly. When they have sheared like that the stress is gone, the slightest turn and they work out.

My advice, try and shear the bastard and do the same..... Would never have believed it.
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i spose where there's a will, there's a way
 
bk1991 said:
what did u do to fix ? New accumulator ? How did u find problem?
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Replaced the accumulator, they're located inside the cross member.
When you disconnect the pipe from the accumulator, if a good bit of oil drains out it means the pressure is lost in the accumulator, on a new/ good accumulator little to no oil should be inside it, the space inside is occupied by the nitrogen gas under pressure, if that makes sense.
 
Cjmc said:
Replaced the accumulator, they're located inside the cross member.
When you disconnect the pipe from the accumulator, if a good bit of oil drains out it means the pressure is lost in the accumulator, on a new/ good accumulator little to no oil should be inside it, the space inside is occupied by the nitrogen gas under pressure, if that makes sense.
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yes makes sense i retro fitted accumulators on a tanco before . Where did u get the accumulators ? Do they have to be quickie ?
 
bk1991 said:
yes makes sense i retro fitted accumulators on a tanco before . Where did u get the accumulators ? Do they have to be quickie ?
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No it doesn't have to be quicke, I got mine from a plant and machinery parts shop, Redmac, so long as it's the same capacity and pressure and it'll physically fit into the cross member it'll work the finest, had to get a fitting for it to match the non quicke accumulator to the original hose. Still worked out at just over half the price of the quicke unit.
 
johndeere6920s said:
Anyone find really good tips for them yet I'm on my last one
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China seems to be the place to go. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plasma-C...hash=item3fd28e1516:m:m8UwpN0rn8dzdlSxFZroETw

Probably a bit of a lottery in terms of quality, but these guys seem to be offering varying quality levels which I've not seen before.


Got a lick of paint on the shelf and plumbed an air hose across the roof to the compressor. I could do with a longer hose and earth for the cutter though if it starts seeing a lot of use. but again. china will provide
 

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JohnBoy said:
China seems to be the place to go. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plasma-C...hash=item3fd28e1516:m:m8UwpN0rn8dzdlSxFZroETw

Probably a bit of a lottery in terms of quality, but these guys seem to be offering varying quality levels which I've not seen before.


Got a lick of paint on the shelf and plumbed an air hose across the roof to the compressor. I could do with a longer hose and earth for the cutter though if it starts seeing a lot of use. but again. china will provide
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Good man I tried the pack of bits I had for the cut 50 and they work but not great
 
There are hydraulic quick connecters going into the crossmember of our JD loader (h310) the type that need a collar presding with a screwdriver to release.

One of them seems to like popping off if I dump too quickly (not stupid quick either!)

Done it twice this week.
Pops back in and no leeks.
Everything appears to be in place in terms of rings and seals.
Not even 3k hours on the tractor yet.

Any ideas of cause? Just wear?

Had anyone converted such connecters to standard?
 
AYF said:
There are hydraulic quick connecters going into the crossmember of our JD loader (h310) the type that need a collar presding with a screwdriver to release.

One of them seems to like popping off if I dump too quickly (not stupid quick either!)

Done it twice this week.
Pops back in and no leeks.
Everything appears to be in place in terms of rings and seals.
Not even 3k hours on the tractor yet.

Any ideas of cause? Just wear?

Had anyone converted such connecters to standard?
Click to expand...
Got a pic??
 
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