What are you up to in the workshop?

Was looking for a weight for the tractor and loader but they seemed dear so said I'd cobble my own... Wanted to be able to tow a trailer as well with it on. Used the front part of a old mchale block cutter for the quick attach, its coming in at 970kg. Only bit of concrete is at the top to level it off. Must put a sheet on the top to finish it off and spray it sometime. Keeps the back down well!
The fact that your brackets are in front of the weight keeps the weight further back and even more of a cantilever effect for better balance.
 
The fact that your brackets are in front of the weight keeps the weight further back and even more of a cantilever effect for better balance.
Exactly, might sort out something so that I can put 4 ferguson weights on their side at the back, would give a extra 180kg and not much extra length to it. Giving the front axle a easier life is the main reason for it.. It has to be a help :scratchhead:
 
Was looking for a weight for the tractor and loader but they seemed dear so said I'd cobble my own... Wanted to be able to tow a trailer as well with it on. Used the front part of a old mchale block cutter for the quick attach, its coming in at 970kg. Only bit of concrete is at the top to level it off. Must put a sheet on the top to finish it off and spray it sometime. Keeps the back down well!
My one fabricated by my brother, steel casing mainly filled with old bolts being thrown out at work and infilled with concrete, 775kg towing hitch each side as it is reversible. Can be turned out or in depending on amount of overhanging weight you need. Hitch handy for moving trailer with seed.
 

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My one fabricated by my brother, steel casing mainly filled with old bolts being thrown out at work and infilled with concrete, 775kg towing hitch each side as it is reversible. Can be turned out or in depending on amount of overhanging weight you need. Hitch handy for moving trailer with seed.
That's a fine job.... A bit more polished than mine!
 
That's a fine job.... A bit more polished than mine!
Your one will do the job fine too. To be honest I have yet to use it in the reversed position (less overhang) but when making it I thought it would be handy to be able to turn it both ways. If I was doing a bit of loading in a tight yard I may turn it in.
 
The fact that your brackets are in front of the weight keeps the weight further back and even more of a cantilever effect for better balance.

Exactly, might sort out something so that I can put 4 ferguson weights on their side at the back, would give a extra 180kg and not much extra length to it. Giving the front axle a easier life is the main reason for it.. It has to be a help :scratchhead:
Everyone has their own way of thinking, the theory behind ours was making it wider rather than longer would be more helpful for keeping the back wheels on the ground and wouldn't restrict maneuverability too much. Also setting the lifting points in the concrete would result in less strain on the welds, hopefully meaning there was less chance of it pulling apart. Time will tell :laugh:
 
Everyone has their own way of thinking, the theory behind ours was making it wider rather than longer would be more helpful for keeping the back wheels on the ground and wouldn't restrict maneuverability too much. Also setting the lifting points in the concrete would result in less strain on the welds, hopefully meaning there was less chance of it pulling apart. Time will tell :laugh:
The main observation I've had on tractors with heavy weights swinging around on the lift arms is that the balls on the lift arms where they connect to the tractor trumpet housings are nearly always worn out, if possible try to keep check chains tight to reduce swinging and to increase stability. Not easy I know, unless there's a quick attach system involved.
 
The main observation I've had on tractors with heavy weights swinging around on the lift arms is that the balls on the lift arms where they connect to the tractor trumpet housings are nearly always worn out, if possible try to keep check chains tight to reduce swinging and to increase stability. Not easy I know, unless there's a quick attach system involved.
There are no check chains on that Deutz, there are stabiliser blocks, and there's a standard Cat 2 width cross shaft in the weight block so when you raise the arms fully there is no sideways movement. The bigger ones have quick-release stabilisers that again are always set at a standard width and lock when the arms are raised. I wouldn't like to have that kind of weight swinging around with a bale of silage on a raised loader, it could have the complete opposite effect to the one intended :eek3:
 
Have you a toddler?
Send it through in wellies following the cat tracks. Then itt'l be cute!!

Mate of mine did it on his garden path.... It is cute!

I do have a toddler, concrete was too set before I noticed though. Thankfully that's the extend of it and just at the doorway nowhere near the important bit.
 
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Thats a Komatsu is it, a reasonably old one

Is there a mechanic Tralee direction who can repair transmissions or now that its removed are you sending it further afield? Castledermot direction maybe

It's a case.
Going to see what the guy that owns it wants to do the torque converter has to be sent away anyway
 
Just in from stripping down the ms180 to replace the oil pump.

Put a Chinese pump in it 2 years ago and it did a few tanks is all before it calved.

Genuine stihl was about 5 times the spurious one but will probably outlive the saw
 
Just in from stripping down the ms180 to replace the oil pump.

Put a Chinese pump in it 2 years ago and it did a few tanks is all before it calved.

Genuine stihl was about 5 times the spurious one but will probably outlive the saw
Chinese pump has plastic gears, Stihl has steel gears?
 
No, both were steel, but the chinese one has developed about 2mm end float and feels like its rising and falling on a cam as it rotates. That's a lot of end float on a pump that's hardly 40mm long.

Of course it was only after I'd fitted the cheap one that I discovered they are known to be terrible quality
 
A light duty overhead gantry was on the menu today, I've made a few of these before and they're suitable for up to 250kg. Ingredients are a length of 8x4 RSJ, Lidls hoist for €50, some channel iron for hoist carrier, length of 4x2 channel for overhead brace, 25mm solid steel shaft for a pivot/hinge, 4x old "6205" combine bearings and bits of other scrap also. The last photo is one I made earlier, the current one isn't hanging yet as I ran out of Mig gas but you get the idea.
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Started makeing the q/w headstock for the small ih loader of the 475. Think I’ve left the arms too short and will have limited crowd on it might gain a smal bit by nicking something from the plates . Would it be a bad idea to try move the cross beam up a bit on loader ? Have to chop some more off orignal arms and plate them in on the sides and have to put some bits on top bar of q/a and mount the locking pins.
 

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Finally finished the bucket today, not sure whether it looks odd with curved sides or not.:unsure: Its done now anyway!!
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how much did it cost for the steel to make the bucket? I adapted a secondhand bucket to the matbro last winter, and found it difficult to mount the bracket at the correct angle. I managed to get it done in a rush by welding a worn out dung fork to the bucket. I wouldn't mind doing it properly if I had dimensions to work off.
 
@BasilSeal was there much of a saving making your own compared to buying one

bit late to the party here but i priced a grab up at around the £1200 mark, from memory i think this cost around £600 to make for the steel and the tines, i got genuine kvernland tines from agri and garden at a very reasonable price which helped i didn't need to buy rams and i made the hoses up with hydraulic pipe and crimp ends i bought from sale so that probably knocked about £200 of the total. i think the main advantage was that it will be stronger, but it did save a bit as well if i don't count my time.
 
Started makeing the q/w headstock for the small ih loader of the 475. Think I’ve left the arms too short and will have limited crowd on it might gain a smal bit by nicking something from the plates . Would it be a bad idea to try move the cross beam up a bit on loader ? Have to chop some more off orignal arms and plate them in on the sides and have to put some bits on top bar of q/a and mount the locking pins.
You could shorten the bottom of the crowd rams where they mount to the frame, looks like the last bit is solid steel so wouldn’t be a big job. Just be careful welding a ram, extend it fully, drain it of oil and have hose removed so it can vent gas/heat.
 
First off cut two pieces of plywood the same size as your plates, screw a spacer between them and drill the same holes.


Disconnect the ram hoses and cycle the ram. See how big a notch you need to take out. By if you want to see the effect of shortening the ram replace it with two pieces of 3x1 clamped together. You can clamp them at your proposed open and closed lengths and then raise/lower the loader to see the angles involved
 
how much did it cost for the steel to make the bucket? I adapted a secondhand bucket to the matbro last winter, and found it difficult to mount the bracket at the correct angle. I managed to get it done in a rush by welding a worn out dung fork to the bucket. I wouldn't mind doing it properly if I had dimensions to work off.
Be about £550 for the steel, anything secondhand needing work with a worn out cutting edge seemed to be around the same money and new around £1000.
 
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