John Deere

Which bonnet and cab is on your 1977 2130 ?



This is a tractor that a neighbour bought early in the year . I didnt see it up close until lately . It seems to have the newer bonnet , but is it ? It was either repaired or modified ?
SCI was a 1977 Laois reg.
I showed the photo to a man , and he reckoned he knew who owned the tractor years ago. Any ideas @13spanner ?
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It has the newer bonnet as it has the new type Badge,see on andys,it has the older one recessed into the bonnet,but on your friends 21 i see some one made a steel nose cone,as they were all fibreglass,and it looks to be homemade.asit should have a plinth for the yellow sticker round the front
 
It has the newer bonnet as it has the new type Badge,see on andys,it has the older one recessed into the bonnet,but on your friends 21 i see some one made a steel nose cone,as they were all fibreglass,and it looks to be homemade.asit should have a plinth for the yellow sticker round the front

Thank you ,baz. I thought that newer type bonnet was correct for age and reg no.
Now , who ever made that steel nose cone did a good enough job of it .
 
https://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/john-deere-3050-turbo/25732659

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He will probably get 25 k for it too
 
It's for sale quite a long time now.

You'd get a clean 6610 for that money I would have thought and I know which I'd prefer.

id well believe it , just always liked those 3050,s . we had a 1989 one when i was a teenager

dont see mention of a new engine in it , you,d probably need to be getting it for that kind of coin ?
 
When it was mixing slurry revs would drop rise a few times before it stayed constant and now theres a low blow of it even at idle. Contacted the dealer to see what he thought and he said turbo. Half afraid to ask him the price of it
 
When it was mixing slurry revs would drop rise a few times before it stayed constant and now theres a low blow of it even at idle. Contacted the dealer to see what he thought and he said turbo. Half afraid to ask him the price of it

Have you checked the pipe work to the turbo?
I was ploughing one day and a noise came from around the engine and the tractor lost power. I thought the turbo had gone, went to the head mechanic and he laughed at me in my state of distress and before he lifted the bonnet he knew it was the pipe. All that happened was the clamp had loosened.
KISS (keep it simple stupid) and check everything else before assuming the worst.
 
I thought it was something like that to start with but when it started singing different tunes I kinda presumed it was more serious. Did anyone face into the job themselves here or is it better to take my beating from the dealer
 
Don't know these specifically, but a 6830 is a relatively modern engine. is it wastegated or variable geometry?

sometimes turbos are written off when it's actually the things that control the turbo that are at fault. check all boost hoses but also if there's vaccum/boost lines going to an actuator on the turbo make sure they're perfect, silicone vaccuum hose is so cheap I'd replace all the lines on something that was suspect. if it's VGT and electrically actuated then wiggle the actuator arm, it doesnt take much to jam them up. I've seen videos of people taking them off, removing the housing and cleaning the VGT vanes, they can sometimes get coked up.

couple of areas I'd look at before changing it.

They're generally real easy to change on tractors, remove the bonnet and it's just sitting there on top of the engine right in front of you. Did one in a vw golf last year, down between the engine and the steering rack, lying on your back getting oil down on your face.

it's just nuts and bolts and plumbing to change one, just cleanliness is next to godliness with turbos so make sure the oil lines and the like are all clean before you go opening things up.
 
Question for any lads with a JD 20 series.
What is the correct way to operate the heater plugs?
On my 6820 when I turn the key to the first position all dash lights and beeper come on and go out after a few seconds.
Turn it half way beyond this and no heater plugs light comes on, cranks for a good while then as if no heating in manifold or cylinder.
It is very sluggish to start in cold weather and usually needs a jump start during this kind of weather.
Mind you it’s only started on Saturdays this time of the year.
Starts no bother from March till November. Battery 4 years old.
Any tips on cold starting them welcome.
TIA
 
Question for any lads with a JD 20 series.
What is the correct way to operate the heater plugs?
On my 6820 when I turn the key to the first position all dash lights and beeper come on and go out after a few seconds.
Turn it half way beyond this and no heater plugs light comes on, cranks for a good while then as if no heating in manifold or cylinder.
It is very sluggish to start in cold weather and usually needs a jump start during this kind of weather.
Mind you it’s only started on Saturdays this time of the year.
Starts no bother from March till November. Battery 4 years old.
Any tips on cold starting them welcome.
TIA
Not sure if it’s the same but the 10’s you pushed they key in for the heater, as in push it in towards the dash. You can hear the heater click in when you do it
 
Do you push in the key? The 6820 here was slow to start and put in a geared starter. She starts great now. Before she would crank slowly and sometimes need a jump.
 
Not sure if it’s the same but the 10’s you pushed they key in for the heater, as in push it in towards the dash. You can hear the heater click in when you do it
Someone did say that to me alright but, no glow plug light illuminates or anything. Not sure it makes any difference to it starting either.
must try again.
 
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