The 8011 rebuild

Great work your doing.its always great to see an old one get a new lease of life. If your opening up the gearbox it would pay to do
the torque pump and brake band as jf850 says but if budget is tight you can adjust the band at a later stage.
Thanks @Deerehunter I'll definitely do it at some point. Ya, I'll be happy out when it's back on the 12x8 trailer to haul 8 bales a load during the summer or it often done a few days of slurry but needs to sort out the handbrake to go back on that duty.
 
Given the wet day that was in it I took to the shed for an hour or two to try make her a bit more road worthy. I got the hamburger lights for nothing from a friend a few years ago who was upgrading an artic trailer to LED's. They took a bit of a bang last year from the fertiliser spreader, I wasn't piloting at the time! šŸ˜
Had these sitting on the self for 12 months or more so I put them on for the time being, they'll will be replaced with something more appropriate when I come around to changing the mudguards.
 

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Bit of a slow down the last few days, with plenty of other things on the agenda. I spent a bit of time on Saturday to wiring up the new lights, connecting them to existing wiring. I started at the back working forward, I had to go through and re connect a junction box that I was worried about a short.
I then ran a new section of 7 core from here to the dash. I used the trailer board to check the trailer plug as I went through it.
There was a few bad earths with both the work lights and the park and indicators. The wiring for the ignition and charging will be redone also and I'll be adding a dead man switch in the process.
 

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I stripped the leveling box a while back and ordered a thrust bearing for it (30mm ID 47mm OD if anyone is looking for one), ye would laugh if ye saw the state of it at the start. I said I'd try and sort it out because there was around an inch and a half in the difference of the height of the ball ends and it wouldn't be much good on a bale handler or fertiliser spreader.
After scraping out the dirt and dried grease I used spray on degreaser and kept wiping it out and it cleaned up the inside really well.
I picked up a wire brush attachment set in the local motorfactors when I was getting a tube of gasket sealer for it and it made a super job of cleaning up different parts, it fits into the chuck of the impact driver.
I've a feeling the blue grease isn't the right one to use but was the only one I had on the shelf so made use of it. Leveling box turned out well for a finish and seems to have been worth the effort of sorting it out, should allow me put the disc mower onto her now that it can be leveled properly, I must get a set of stabilizers but I'll leave that until closer to the summer I'd say.
All sorted for about ā‚¬20 I'd say between the bearing, tube of sealer, delivery and about an hour of my time.
 

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Got back to it again yesterday and today for a while, I knicked the 12v battery out of the lawnmower because her own ones won't take a charge. I started to go through and test the brake lights yesterday and all worked fine from the junction box back to the light units but I had nothing from the brake switch to the junction box. After a bit of tracing I found a damaged cable down behind the seat after replacing it all was fine.
Next up was the indicators and there wasn't anything in the tractor to start with so I picked up a flasher unit and I had an on/off/on switch on the self so will use it for now. I found a diagram online and went about it, I just ran power from the fuse holder and ran it up to the flasher unit, flasher has a ground and the last pin runs upto the centre of the switch. It was very straight forward to do actually.

Next up is the front lights, there are the two headlights on the very front with two work lights up top. What would ye suggest? Both on together at the same time or separate? Either way I will fit a relay to avoid burning out the switch.

I have a switch similar to the last pic where I have the parks as stage 1, headlights as 2, worklights as 3. As far as I know it will only 1+2 or 1+3 or 1+4 so I can't get all 3 to come on together at one time. Anyone know a way around it?
 

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Between worklights and two flashing beacons and maybe another couple of flashing lights I think it is giving tractor drivers a bad reputation. And yea I know it is illegal not to use beacons but they shud only but used when needed. Slow awkward wide loads. Slow doesn't mean 50k
 
Iā€™ve the front worklights on my Ursus wired to the headlight high beams. Theyā€™re on a separate relay and also have a switch so you can knock them off and still use the high beams on their own. It just means that if you do have them on on the road theyā€™ll knock off when you dim your lights
 
From Revised standards for Agricultural Vehicles (RSA) "working lights: previously known as ā€˜ploughing lampsā€™, working lights are fitted to agricultural tractors and self-propelled agricultural machinery so that they can be used in an off-road environment ā€“ that is, in a farm yard or field. These lamps should not be switched on when the vehicles are in use on a public road. The Regulations ban white lights being used on the rear of a vehicle when it is in use on a public road. It is illegal to travel on a public road with working lights (ploughing lamps) switched on as they can confuse and dazzle other road users."
 
From Revised standards for Agricultural Vehicles (RSA) "working lights: previously known as ā€˜ploughing lampsā€™, working lights are fitted to agricultural tractors and self-propelled agricultural machinery so that they can be used in an off-road environment ā€“ that is, in a farm yard or field. These lamps should not be switched on when the vehicles are in use on a public road. The Regulations ban white lights being used on the rear of a vehicle when it is in use on a public road. It is illegal to travel on a public road with working lights (ploughing lamps) switched on as they can confuse and dazzle other road users."
You must nearly have it memorised at this stage
 
Iā€™ve the front worklights on my Ursus wired to the headlight high beams. Theyā€™re on a separate relay and also have a switch so you can knock them off and still use the high beams on their own. It just means that if you do have them on on the road theyā€™ll knock off when you dim your lights
That's sounds ideal, I think I'll do the same. Tractor will be doing mostly farm work and a bit of feeding down the line, so very little road work and even less at night but it's as easy have it done right as wrong.
 
Back to it today for a little bit, anyone know I can change the litte seal on this selector from this side? I'd rather not going messing with it before I know I can do it or not. It's inside at the bottom of the housing below the release bearing and it is weeping a little and would like to sort it if I can.
 

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Not much happening with the last few days, I was waiting on a few things to get tidied up. Injector pump and injectors are back today (I'll post a pic tomorrow) and I must do one little job before it goes back onto the engine.
The head came back early in the week after a full refurb so expecting great things there. Rad went to be re-cored and turned out to be a great shout as chap said there was nothing left in it. Have to say they made an excellent job of it.
I took off the battery connections and cleaned with the wire brush attachment and put a bit of vaseline on them when I refit them. Called into a motor factors on Tuesday about batteries, said they were having trouble sourcing them so should be in Monday hopefully.
I replaced a few sections of wiring from the alternator and starter, making sure to only do one cable at a time. I sourced the crimp connectors and some of the flexible plastic conduit from the local electrical shop.

My initial budget is well and truly blown at this point with most things paid so far, what really caught me was the cost of the head and injector pump the only bills outstanding at this time are the two batteries and labour to rebuild the engine.
 

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Back to it today for a little bit, anyone know I can change the litte seal on this selector from this side? I'd rather not going messing with it before I know I can do it or not. It's inside at the bottom of the housing below the release bearing and it is weeping a little and would like to sort it if I can.
Got talking to a man in the know about this leak, he said the torque box has to come out to get to it. A relatively small amount of work to do considering where I am at the moment. Just pull the bolts and go from there.
 
Another slow week again this week given work and waiting on getting a few bits done.
The chap that did the rad made a super job of it, he even added a proper mounting for a cap and cap to it. The lick of paint to it really freshened it up and looks like new.
The engine was ready today so I picked it up this evening on my way home. Looks a super job with a lot of parts replaced on it, I'm really happy with it. I'm going to try and make a start on it on Friday evening and hopefully finish it Saturday. Just need to get a few new 3/4 inch water hoses and I'll replace the jubilee clips as I go through it.
 

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Made a burst at her this evening, it took a bit grunting and wiggling but got everything lined back up after about 20 minutes. I really needed a levelling attachment for the engine crane but made do by raising it high enough and got the roller trolley in under the sump.
It did give me a bit of the chance to raise or lower each end as I offered up the engine to the bell housing. It's something I might look at making afterwards maybe.
I had fitted the release bearing and a water hose yesterday evening, so I was ready to go today.
I made two small mistakes putting her back I forgot to pass the injector linkage in behind the oil filter unit, but I just disconnected it and passed it back inside.
I went ahead then and fitted the alternator and starter connecting up the new sections of wiring I have added. I had made a few short videos of explaining how bits and pieces went together before I stripped, worked a treat putting stuff back.
I forgot to take a photo of the new clevis pin I made for the injector pump linkage, I found it difficult to refit it so I ended up using a cable tie to hold the throttle in position so I could fit the pin. My hands just weren't meant to fit in that space!
With a bit of luck I might have her turning over before dinner time tomorrow.

Anybody got any tips for running in a rebuilt engine?

Also info on adjusting the new clutch, I dont think it's right at the minute because the pedal seems very light when I pressed it down.
 

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Made a burst at her this evening, it took a bit grunting and wiggling but got everything lined back up after about 20 minutes. I really needed a levelling attachment for the engine crane but made do by raising it high enough and got the roller trolley in under the sump.
It did give me a bit of the chance to raise or lower each end as I offered up the engine to the bell housing. It's something I might look at making afterwards maybe.
I had fitted the release bearing and a water hose yesterday evening, so I was ready to go today.
I made two small mistakes putting her back I forgot to pass the injector linkage in behind the oil filter unit, but I just disconnected it and passed it back inside.
I went ahead then and fitted the alternator and starter connecting up the new sections of wiring I have added. I had made a few short videos of explaining how bits and pieces went together before I stripped, worked a treat putting stuff back.
I forgot to take a photo of the new clevis pin I made for the injector pump linkage, I found it difficult to refit it so I ended up using a cable tie to hold the throttle in position so I could fit the pin. My hands just weren't meant to fit in that space!
With a bit of luck I might have her turning over before dinner time tomorrow.

Anybody got any tips for running in a rebuilt engine?

Also info on adjusting the new clutch, I dont think it's right at the minute because the pedal seems very light at the minute.

Good man . Hope she goes well for you .

On running in . Something steady pull , and not revving the shite out of it . An agitator at half revs is what I put the 8145 at to run it in 18 months ago . A plough is ideal either . Running in oil if you can get it , and drop it after 50 hours .
 
Made a burst at her this evening, it took a bit grunting and wiggling but got everything lined back up after about 20 minutes. I really needed a levelling attachment for the engine crane but made do by raising it high enough and got the roller trolley in under the sump.
It did give me a bit of the chance to raise or lower each end as I offered up the engine to the bell housing. It's something I might look at making afterwards maybe.
I had fitted the release bearing and a water hose yesterday evening, so I was ready to go today.
I made two small mistakes putting her back I forgot to pass the injector linkage in behind the oil filter unit, but I just disconnected it and passed it back inside.
I went ahead then and fitted the alternator and starter connecting up the new sections of wiring I have added. I had made a few short videos of explaining how bits and pieces went together before I stripped, worked a treat putting stuff back.
I forgot to take a photo of the new clevis pin I made for the injector pump linkage, I found it difficult to refit it so I ended up using a cable tie to hold the throttle in position so I could fit the pin. My hands just weren't meant to fit in that space!
With a bit of luck I might have her turning over before dinner time tomorrow.

Anybody got any tips for running in a rebuilt engine?

Also info on adjusting the new clutch, I dont think it's right at the minute because the pedal seems very light at the minute.
Donā€™t leave the engine idling for a long period, use engine at different speeds and loads without excess speed.
As long as the clutch pedal has at least half an inch to an inch free play on top it wonā€™t do any harm.
 
@jf 850 I haven't any jobs like that here close to me, I'd be a few miles away from the farmyard. Would be okay to drive it over (obviously taking it handy about 1/2 or 3/4 pace) and then work it on the farm there? The agitating sounds ideal, how long would you have left it running it? I'll definitely change the oil after running her in.
 
@jf 850 I haven't any jobs like that here close to me, I'd be a few miles away from the farmyard. Would be okay to drive it over (obviously taking it handy about 1/2 or 3/4 pace) and then work it on the farm there? The agitating sounds ideal, how long would you have left it running it? I'll definitely change the oil after running her in.

You will be the finest driving it over . However long the tank took but it was only 63 ft long . An hour or two ? Don't bull it , just steady . Stop it after a while , and check oil and water levels .
Things like ticking over with a log splitter or cement mixer would be things NOT to do .
 
Perfect thanks. Ya I was thinking that would work all right. I've a bit of splitting and power washing to do here but I'm in no rush with those jobs at the minute. I'm assuming the PTO power washer wouldn't put enough of a load on her even at 1/2 revs to bed things in.

I didn't rise too early this morning, but got things back together there now. I refitted the power steering tank and pipe, gave the filter a rinse as well (it was in a bad state). Got a bit of a shock when I un-did the filter how many parts it had in it, I just stacked them out on the bench rinsed everything and put them back in as they were.

My wife gave a hand there for 20 mins rolling back in the frame, I was dam glad of it with rolling everything in and trying to watch the power steering pipes and get the rails lined up with the cab. She's in now and I must get a few M20 spring washers in the local hardware store after lunch.
Jobs I've left to are finish bolting her up, fit the new batteries, top up the hydraulic oil, fit the rad, air filter, bonnet, coolant and tidy up a few bits of wiring.
I made sure to fill her with oil this morning I was afraid I'd forget it šŸ˜…
 

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