What are you up to in the workshop?

Seeing as the weather is shite I decided to get the big combine out of hibernation (yes it's the little 520 I mean :laugh:) and go through it. Change the engine and gearbox oil and a quick once over with the grease gun I thought and she'd be ready. Turns out the coolant pump is knackered, a seal under the injector pump gave up over the winter it seems and the hour I had it going earlier it lost about a gallon of engine oil. That was fixed with a new O-ring so no great trouble there. However the main drive belt tensioner decided to move over to one side and ate itself and worse ate the mounting it's held in with. I've half the side of the machine apart tonight to get that Bast&rd out but all's well as I welded up the bracket and luckily I had a spare pulley that I picked up in B Byrnes a few years ago for no other reason then it was thrown on the ground. New coolant pump is to be in tomorrow and unless I find something else she'll be ready for another harvest tomorrow evening. The cost of the repairs not inc oil or my time (which is free) (I can't charge myself) will be under 200 euro. Cheap combining if you ask me.
 
diesel power said:
Seeing as the weather is shite I decided to get the big combine out of hibernation (yes it's the little 520 I mean :laugh:) and go through it. Change the engine and gearbox oil and a quick once over with the grease gun I thought and she'd be ready. Turns out the coolant pump is knackered, a seal under the injector pump gave up over the winter it seems and the hour I had it going earlier it lost about a gallon of engine oil. That was fixed with a new O-ring so no great trouble there. However the main drive belt tensioner decided to move over to one side and ate itself and worse ate the mounting it's held in with. I've half the side of the machine apart tonight to get that Bast&rd out but all's well as I welded up the bracket and luckily I had a spare pulley that I picked up in B Byrnes a few years ago for no other reason then it was thrown on the ground. New coolant pump is to be in tomorrow and unless I find something else she'll be ready for another harvest tomorrow evening. The cost of the repairs not inc oil or my time (which is free) (I can't charge myself) will be under 200 euro. Cheap combining if you ask me.
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You can leave a combine in each of your outlying estates .
 
Claas disco mower (3pl mounted with pressure controll) wouldn't pressurise in field earlier.
Decided to pressurize half way through the field. But not to full pressure.

Kept working.
Then set everything to float at the end, and re pressurized and was fine.... but wouldn't propperly pressurize again next field!


No visable oil leaks.
If the accumulator bottle was buggered it would pressurise the same would it?
Just not have suspension?
 
It wont, but it sure looks good.

Some horse of an engine you have on it. You'd want good heavy jeans to protect you from the exhaust.

Have you had it up to speed yet?
 
50cc, maxes out around 40k supposedly.
I went up a hill today faster than I ever went up on two wheels before. Extended pedal cranks to keep legs away from heat.
 
I thought you had to tax the bike as it is the main drive not like most of the electric ones that you have to pedal to move.
Anyone remember the Singer engines mounted on the front wheel of an ordinary bicycle.
 
Bog Man said:
I thought you had to tax the bike as it is the main drive not like most of the electric ones that you have to pedal to move.
Anyone remember the Singer engines mounted on the front wheel of an ordinary bicycle.
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Ah Id be pedalling with the engine going just for excercise...its a 4 stroke engine so no tell tale blue smoke, needs a rear view mirror to watch for blue lights though.
Yes, illegal on the road..especially if you're caught at it.
 
Bog Man said:
I thought you had to tax the bike as it is the main drive not like most of the electric ones that you have to pedal to move.
Anyone remember the Singer engines mounted on the front wheel of an ordinary bicycle.
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You have to tax it alright, know of someone who a guard had a right go at over something similar!
 
humungus said:
you,ll need a guard on that chain pretty sharpish and a test pilot
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The chain is inside the main frame except going around the rear sprocket so not too bad.
I'm the only volunteering test pilot so far, I need to test it next with a feed of beer on board to see how it handles the extra weight.
 
lough said:
What way did you modify the top bar the petrol tank is sitting on, I can see next the seat you welded a piece of flat bar on to the end of it but where was the end welded to before that:scratchhead:
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The crossbar was too low to clear the engine so I cut it off below the saddle and bent it up to clear the top of the engine. There were no beauty awards going for this project so a bit of 30x5mm flat completed the joint. It originally was welded about 2 inches below the saddle tube.
 
massey 6480 said:
There’s a leaving cert lad locally who done similar . Engine and tank are all one fair toke to motor...
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A 2 stroke engine kit is also available and much smaller and tidier in the frame but doesn't have a starting cord, you need to be pedalling the bike first then release the clutch to start the engine. There'd be a good bit of 2 stroke smoke out of it also and would be as loud as a chainsaw and a bit more powerful than a 4 stroke.
 
The electric bikes are a great yoke my brother has one as does the Buddist that lives in the rented farm. They were about €1500 and you can set how much effort you can put in peddling.
 
MF30 said:
The chain is inside the main frame except going around the rear sprocket so not too bad.
I'm the only volunteering test pilot so far, I need to test it next with a feed of beer on board to see how it handles the extra weight.
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just the same if you get caught while pedalling a bike you,ll stop quicker than you,ll stop an engine and do a lot more damage, but its your leg :woot:
 
humungus said:
just the same if you get caught while pedalling a bike you,ll stop quicker than you,ll stop an engine and do a lot more damage, but its your leg :woot:
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A bit of Wavin pipe might be drafted into a job as a chain guard, now that’s its officially a farm vehicle it needs to comply with H&S standards.
 
20200806_191149.jpg Just finished stripping, cleaning and fully rebuilding this mower bed, 8 replacment gears and all that goes with it. It will have taken 4 days labour from removing bed from mower to refitting it. This mower was sold in "perfect working order" :rolleyes2: and before it got used it was discovered that the bed was full of broken teeth even though it ran. Previous owner didnt want to know about it. Big repair bill now.:curse:
 
MF30 said:
View attachment 81052 Just finished stripping, cleaning and fully rebuilding this mower bed, 8 replacment gears and all that goes with it. It will have taken 4 days labour from removing bed from mower to refitting it. This mower was sold in "perfect working order" :rolleyes2: and before it got used it was discovered that the bed was full of broken teeth even though it ran. Previous owner didnt want to know about it. Big repair bill now.:curse:
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It’s done a fair amount of acres because the disc is worn just before the blade holder bolt.

What did the parts cost?
 
scoffcruddle said:
It’s done a fair amount of acres because the disc is worn just before the blade holder bolt.

What did the parts cost?
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The picture might be deceiving because both sides of the disc ( the wearing side and the non wearing) are identical wear wise. I was going to swap them around to use the other side but it’s hard to see any difference.
Idler gears are €120 each, bearings €80 each and gear alone for the disc module is not available so complete modules are €300 each. Some second hand parts were used. Also about 60 new bolts and nuts.
 
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