Shed wall height

R

rodders

Well-Known Member
Got the steel up and timbers on for a new cattle shed it’s 14 ft to eves, need to build the walls for it now, what would be a good height to build them to?
 
If shuttering then they are usually 8 feet by 9 feet so go with 8 feet as they will charge you near enough the same price to go lower and wont break the bank with extra bit of concrete to go the 8 feet. Also makes shed handy for other uses.
 
Are the stock going to be housed up to the wall with a central feed passage. There is a really interesting book called 'Building for the dairy cow' it advocates keeping wall heights to a minimum to allow air to circulate better.
The age/type of stock, the building location in relation to weather etc all need to be accounted for.
 
Merv_B said:
Are the stock going to be housed up to the wall with a central feed passage. There is a really interesting book called 'Building for the dairy cow' it advocates keeping wall heights to a minimum to allow air to circulate better.
The age/type of stock, the building location in relation to weather etc all need to be accounted for.
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We have a shed with 4.5ft (or less even, 4ft pans but sat on wood, poured walls.)
Gap boarding down then, but needs wood on top of the wall to stop them breaking boards.
It's fine, very airy and enough shelter from draughts.
That wall wouldn't get much weather though.
 
Walls in the shed here at 6 ft including the newest one, which is completely open front to back bar the back wall but has about a 7ft over hang at the back and around 8th over the feed passage at the front. Once you have the draft off them is the main thing they’ll survive it being cold if it’s too warm it’ll be a disaster for pneumonia. But then that’s on slats too, a bedded shed will be different as you’ll need shelter to keep the bedding
 
If using pans then fill them for handyness and got 8 foot.

If blocks then 6 foot would be alright
 
drew said:
Walls in the shed here at 6 ft including the newest one, which is completely open front to back bar the back wall but has about a 7ft over hang at the back and around 8th over the feed passage at the front. Once you have the draft off them is the main thing they’ll survive it being cold if it’s too warm it’ll be a disaster for pneumonia. But then that’s on slats too, a bedded shed will be different as you’ll need shelter to keep the bedding
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We have an open front shed facing east and a couple of winters ago there was a real cold east wind blowing for about three days and on the second day the cattle were shivering in the shed, we pulled a dump trailer and a cattle trailer at the corner to break it and it was a help. It is still a great job being open.
The walls in the gable of mine are 8ft and length ways are 6ft
 
Mf240 said:
If using pans then fill them for handyness and got 8 foot.

If blocks then 6 foot would be alright
Click to expand...

Probably right too, we stayed at 6 as we wanted to leave it possible to see in over from the back when using it as pens leading to the crush so we could see from the cat walk of the crush in to the pens.

doing the maths on it the difference from 6ft to 8ft high in an 8in wall is just short of 0.6m of concrete per bay, so depending on where your concrete is coming in somewhere around €40+ not a lot in the grand scheme and you’ll be paying the same to stand the pans anyway
 
lough said:
We have an open front shed facing east and a couple of winters ago there was a real cold east wind blowing for about three days and on the second day the cattle were shivering in the shed, we pulled a dump trailer and a cattle trailer at the corner to break it and it was a help. It is still a great job being open.
The walls in the gable of mine are 8ft and length ways are 6ft
Click to expand...
Orientation will have a fair effect on it alright as Will surroundings, it’s hard to really call it blind, we brought out the wall at the end of the passage a bit just to block off the worst of the wind along the barrier and it makes a serious difference
 
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