Ford 5610 Putting oil up exhaust

Tom1235

Member
I have a 1988 Ford 5610 2nd generation.I got the engine done a month ago and it is putting oil up the exhaust.The garage who I gave it to told me it was because it wasn’t worked hard enough.I brought it up twice and they put it on the dyno to work it hard.After it still was putting up the exhaust.I then put it on my muck spreader and worked it hard.None of this fixed it any help? It is a lot worse now than shown in the picture
 

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I have a 1988 Ford 5610 2nd generation.I got the engine done a month ago and it is putting oil up the exhaust.The garage who I gave it to told me it was because it wasn’t worked hard enough.I brought it up twice and they put it on the dyno to work it hard.After it still was putting up the exhaust.I then put it on my muck spreader and worked it hard.None of this fixed it any help? It is a lot worse now than shown in the picture
I be thinking that garage is taking shite. Am no engine expert but the only time oil should leave a engine is out the sump plug hole. Sounds like the rings are gone maybe. As I said not s engine expert
 
How long was it on the dyno. I would be thinking work it hard before doing anything else? Something like a power Harrow, rotavator or a decent plough. Constant hard work, would do wonders id say if it’s just done .
 
Where is that oil dripping from? The manifold? Have you checked the rocker cover gasket or indeed the head gasket? Did they give you an itemised bill for what they fixed/replaced?

That oil looks fairly black for a freshly done engine.
 
The cure to throwing oil up the exhaust often can be hard work, glazed cylinders can lead rings to stick, coupled with worn valve stem seals it can then end up the exhaust.

Two spins on the dyno later, it looks like it's not going to work for you. Did they change pistons and liners as a set together? A piston tends to wear slightly as an oval, and if the pistons were replaced but the liners weren't, that could be an issue

As mentioned above, an itemised bill would help
 
What exactly was done to the engine? I'd guess it may have had new rings fitted in partly worn cylinders. Engine cylinders wear very slightly oval with the throw of the piston and rings wear to suit. However, if new rings are fitted in a worn cylinder they often won't bed in properly for obvious reasons. In such cases, oil will pass by and be blown out the exhaust or leak from exhaust manifold. IMO if there's any slight doubt of wear it's best to fit liners or bore out cylinders and fit over size pistons.

If your engine has indeed been fitted with new liners or re-bored then it could be the oil you have is too good. Modern oils are often so good they cause glazing and lubricate too much resulting in rings not bedding in. I've used a type of running in oil in the past where this poorer quality oil allows a limited amount of wear to initially take place and rings etc bed in. It's then changed at say 50 hours for quality oil and hopefully happy days !
 
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I think I would be handing the tractor into them and asking for a replacement while they sort the issue.
 
How long was it on the dyno. I would be thinking work it hard before doing anything else? Something like a power Harrow, rotavator or a decent plough. Constant hard work, would do wonders id say if it’s just done .
They said they had it on most of the day opened up to the last
 
What exactly was done to the engine? I'd guess it may have had new rings fitted in partly worn cylinders. Engine cylinders wear very slightly oval with the throw of the piston and rings wear to suit. However, if new rings are fitted in a worn cylinder they often won't bed in properly for obvious reasons. In such cases, oil will pass by and be blown out the exhaust or leak from exhaust manifold. IMO if there's any slight doubt of wear it's best to fit liners or bore out cylinders and fit over size pistons.

If your engine has indeed been fitted with new liners or re-bored then it could be the oil you have is too good. Modern oils are often so good they cause glazing and lubricate too much resulting in rings not bedding in. I've used a type of running in oil in the past where this poorer quality oil allows a limited amount of wear to initially take place and rings etc bed in. It's then changed at say 50 hours for quality oil and hopefully happy days !
They said it was all done rings cylinders the whole lot.I might try the poorer quality oil
 
Where is that oil dripping from? The manifold? Have you checked the rocker cover gasket or indeed the head gasket? Did they give you an itemised bill for what they fixed/replaced?

That oil looks fairly black for a freshly done engine.
Yeah it’s pure black and they replaced the head gasket and we tightened the rocker cover
 
Where is that oil dripping from? The manifold? Have you checked the rocker cover gasket or indeed the head gasket? Did they give you an itemised bill for what they fixed/replaced?

That oil looks fairly black for a freshly done engine.
It comes from the manifold and comes up the joiner between the exhaust and the manifold
 
Where your oil is leaking from should be new gaskets if "done"
Its black too ,how many hours since the rebuild?
 
Where your oil is leaking from should be new gaskets if "done"
Its black too ,how many hours since the rebuild?
It's going to be black if its going out the exhaust, the fact that it's starting easy I suspect valve stem oil seals,
 
They said it was all done rings cylinders the whole lot.I might try the poorer quality oil

Rings cylinders the whole lot , is a fairly loose description .
I take it that it wasnt rebored /relined ? And that you still have the original pistons in it ? Were the vales/vale guides replaced ?
What sort of oil are you using ? fords arent over fond of Universal oil in the engine , especially if only tipping around ,and not be worked hard .
 
If the engine overhaul was done to a high standard, with a comprehansive list of new quality parts fitted, then two simple things would next be on my list:-

1) Drain whatever engine oil is currently in it. Change engine oil filter also. Re-fill with a very very basic spec 15w40 oil. Not to be confused with a 'cheap brand' ! Look for the spec of API CC or API CD. If you find API CE, or CF, or CG then dont buy it.
Low spec API oils such as CC grade are getting expensive due to un-popularity, but they are worth there weight in gold! They are out there. Try online. You will have to put your hand in your pocket, hence many repairers dont use it.

2) Hard work. Hard pto work and nothing else. Forget what youve been told about it being on the dyno. No garage puts a tractor with newly rebuilt engine on a dyno for long enough. 6 or 7 hours is not going to cut the mustard. Hard powerharrowing for say 30 to 50 hours minimum. The less hours it has on hard loading, the quicker your wet manifold/exhaust problem will come back.


(All of the above is dependent on my words in bold being true.)
 
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