case cvx's

johndeere6920s

Well-Known Member
Sorry just realised had this same problem 2years ago and Win told me it was eem not recognising injection pump. Case dealer cleared it....must be voltage drop when cranking but anyone know why?
Cheers
Fit an isolation switch.
I had deadly trouble with one dropping the voltage in winter if left for a few days.
Fit it to the negative I think if you fit them to the positive you can try pulling current though the ecus and do harm I might be wrong.
Them vp pumps do give trouble tho.
 

Win

Well-Known Member
What do lads set the front suspension accumulators at?
Think there's 37 bar in the cvx or there was, must admit i haven't checked them for a while. I put them a bit higher cause of carrying the mower. There's no trouble with the ride with no weight on the front anyway.
Sorry just realised had this same problem 2years ago and Win told me it was eem not recognising injection pump. Case dealer cleared it....must be voltage drop when cranking but anyone know why?
Cheers
Could be the starter, is it heavy or sluggish turning over? Put a geared high speed one on a tractor last week, seems to make quite a big difference to the draw when cranking.
 

johndeere6920s

Well-Known Member
Think there's 37 bar in the cvx or there was, must admit i haven't checked them for a while. I put them a bit higher cause of carrying the mower. There's no trouble with the ride with no weight on the front anyway.

Could be the starter, is it heavy or sluggish turning over? Put a geared high speed one on a tractor last week, seems to make quite a big difference to the draw when cranking.
Thought it was 130 bar?
 

Win

Well-Known Member
Thought it was 130 bar?
No, the charge pressure for the gas is supposed to be 35 bar, it would be rock hard with a charge pressure of 130 bar. If your getting someone to refill or adjust pressure or doing it yourself do the adjustments slowly and let the pressure settle before disconnecting the guage, the pressure will alter slightly once the gas has stopped been let in or out. A mate had one done on a forager, they put the gas in very quickly thought it was right but it was way out when he fetched it here!
 

Spazmode

Member
Think there's 37 bar in the cvx or there was, must admit i haven't checked them for a while. I put them a bit higher cause of carrying the mower. There's no trouble with the ride with no weight on the front anyway.

Could be the starter, is it heavy or sluggish turning over? Put a geared high speed one on a tractor last week, seems to make quite a big difference to the draw when cranking.
Had new Bosch starter 2 years ago when had initial issues and new bigger battery 6 months ago. Sometimes dash lights are dimmer and Center lcd pixelated , would extra battery help or anyone way of having separate battery for electrics? I also have a single wire that comes out of the loom and goes directly to positive battery terminal, if I disconnect it the whole Center dash goes off but tractor will still start and run is this wire connection right?
 

scoffcruddle

Well-Known Member
No, the charge pressure for the gas is supposed to be 35 bar, it would be rock hard with a charge pressure of 130 bar. If your getting someone to refill or adjust pressure or doing it yourself do the adjustments slowly and let the pressure settle before disconnecting the guage, the pressure will alter slightly once the gas has stopped been let in or out. A mate had one done on a forager, they put the gas in very quickly thought it was right but it was way out when he fetched it here!
Did you buy a kit off hydrokit for re-charging?

how do re charge the ones without a fitting?
 

drew

Well-Known Member
Had new Bosch starter 2 years ago when had initial issues and new bigger battery 6 months ago. Sometimes dash lights are dimmer and Center lcd pixelated , would extra battery help or anyone way of having separate battery for electrics? I also have a single wire that comes out of the loom and goes directly to positive battery terminal, if I disconnect it the whole Center dash goes off but tractor will still start and run is this wire connection right?
It’s not really much help to you but when we got the cvx here the radio was toast in it, I put a new one in but it was constantly live, there was a wire spliced into the loom that looked to me to be feeding a live in, I played around with the wires and thought I’d it all perfect, the radio was coming on and going off with the key and it was still keeping memory to save stations, started the tractor and went to drive it out of the shed and realised the centre display that shows hours etc was gone. Seems the wire in the roof was feeding the power to it:confused::confused::confused:
 

Win

Well-Known Member
Had new Bosch starter 2 years ago when had initial issues and new bigger battery 6 months ago. Sometimes dash lights are dimmer and Center lcd pixelated , would extra battery help or anyone way of having separate battery for electrics? I also have a single wire that comes out of the loom and goes directly to positive battery terminal, if I disconnect it the whole Center dash goes off but tractor will still start and run is this wire connection right?
I expect the single wire is correct, the earlier ones have it anyway. Its there to supply power for the memory on the corner display, must be to do with the dash on yours as well. Are all the earth's good and clean around where the leads are attached?
Did you buy a kit off hydrokit for re-charging?

how do re charge the ones without a fitting?
Yeah had it off hydrokit a few years back, no one here locally is or was able to do them at the time.

I believe you can't do them, don't even know how they're filled in the first place!!
 

Buster456

Member
Evening after a bit of advice again. Have a 1190 and when in 4wd when you turn there's a clicking coming from the front axle was wondering if anyone knows what it could be?
Cheers chris
 

Win

Well-Known Member
Evening after a bit of advice again. Have a 1190 and when in 4wd when you turn there's a clicking coming from the front axle was wondering if anyone knows what it could be?
Cheers chris
Its the H shaped hanger that carries the drive shaft from the diff to the hub, they get end float in them and click. Look and see whether yours is adjustable type or the older type that's held in with circlips, if its the older type you can put some shims behind the circlip to take the wear out. Grab hold of the drive shaft at the wheel end of the wishbone and you will see what i mean.
 

Buster456

Member
Its the H shaped hanger that carries the drive shaft from the diff to the hub, they get end float in them and click. Look and see whether yours is adjustable type or the older type that's held in with circlips, if its the older type you can put some shims behind the circlip to take the wear out. Grab hold of the drive shaft at the wheel end of the wishbone and you will see what i mean.
I have done that and replaced with the new type although only did the one side so it may be worth doing the other side to as it did have a little wear in it but not a lot. Thankyou
 

johndeere6920s

Well-Known Member
I have done that and replaced with the new type although only did the one side so it may be worth doing the other side to as it did have a little wear in it but not a lot. Thankyou
Won't take much for the knocking to come into them again I got shims cut but I think a 16mm washer will fit if there's a lot of play.
If your top wishbone bushes are gone it will be hard keep it right.
80nm for the bolt and 250nm for the nut to lock it
 

Buster456

Member
Won't take much for the knocking to come into them again I got shims cut but I think a 16mm washer will fit if there's a lot of play.
If your top wishbone bushes are gone it will be hard keep it right.
80nm for the bolt and 250nm for the nut to lock it
That's brilliant thankyou will see what I can do there is a bit of play in the top wishbone so that probably isn't helping. Which but and bolt is that for? The ones for the h piece that holds the drive shaft? Also do you know where you can get parts for the axle that are half sensible? Cheers
 

Big hit 199

Active Member
Hi guys, after having a good run for a while my cvx has gone a bit crazy. Starts like it’s having fuel problems or starts up and pulls around to red line by itself then slowly falls back to 1200-1500rpm and just bounces around all through the rev range. Deleted codes but only one it’s showing now is a EEM 85 I have a list of codes but not that one. I’ve heard a bit of talk about fuel pump controllers giving issues?
Thanks
 

Win

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, after having a good run for a while my cvx has gone a bit crazy. Starts like it’s having fuel problems or starts up and pulls around to red line by itself then slowly falls back to 1200-1500rpm and just bounces around all through the rev range. Deleted codes but only one it’s showing now is a EEM 85 I have a list of codes but not that one. I’ve heard a bit of talk about fuel pump controllers giving issues?
Thanks
Sounds like the pump actuator, 85 is related to position sensor on the top. You can get someone to do a calibration with a laptop but i doubt it will sort it, had the same with mine a few years back but ended up changing actuator. Make sure whoever does the calibration reloads the software into engine controller first as it won't log the new measurements from the sensor after calibration otherwise. Engine hasn't cut out randomly has it?
 
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