Haybob questions

J

James liddington

Active Member
I'm new to small holding and have just bought some old hay making equipment. Not sure if I've bought a pz 275 or 300 haybob as there are no markings on it. Can somebody tell me what the main differences are? Are there any differences in the tines? As 3 need replacing. Also should the wheels be fixed facing forward or spin free like a trolley? I've read that it's only advisable to turn left and to always lift the linkage on the headland but if anyone else has some useful input it would be very much appreciated
 
Mmmm I think our old PZ sweegers haybob had "castor " type wheels, also had discs instead of rowing up vames,
With regards to the tines if you can get one off and your dealer ain't to far away just take it to them and ask them for an opinion, some one ought to be able to help you,
Myself personally am a lifter of my hay Bob, old thing gets enough abuse !! And don't be shy with the grease gun on the PTO

While I'm thinking about it I got a notion ours had some kind of plastic time as well, ???
 
Thanks for reply, mines been pretty well dragged out the nettles but is modern enough to have gates and not discs and all metal tines but is still on narrow tyres. I was hoping that the wheels on mine are locked straight and not seized. It's not bad for £200 tho. Spins lovely and all springs work fine. I just didn't check the wheels before i had it delivered
 
James liddington said:
I'm new to small holding and have just bought some old hay making equipment. Not sure if I've bought a pz 275 or 300 haybob as there are no markings on it. Can somebody tell me what the main differences are? Are there any differences in the tines? As 3 need replacing. Also should the wheels be fixed facing forward or spin free like a trolley? I've read that it's only advisable to turn left and to always lift the linkage on the headland but if anyone else has some useful input it would be very much appreciated
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Can you take a picture of it? the tines are handed as in left and right, also the tines alternate between wide and narrow. If its on narrow tyres its an older one the wheels don't castor on them, you do alter the height of the wheels however for rowing up or turning or at least you should. There will be three holes on top of the frame with a 'T'shaped handle.
 
Win said:
Can you take a picture of it? the tines are handed as in left and right, also the tines alternate between wide and narrow. If its on narrow tyres its an older one the wheels don't castor on them, you do alter the height of the wheels however for rowing up or turning or at least you should. There will be three holes on top of the frame with a 'T'shaped handle.
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We have one like you have bought James and Win is on the money with all his points above.

The only other price of advice I'd give is check the width of your baler versus the swath left after the rake. You may need to drill some extra holes in the gates themselves.
 
Win said:
Can you take a picture of it? the tines are handed as in left and right, also the tines alternate between wide and narrow. If its on narrow tyres its an older one the wheels don't castor on them, you do alter the height of the wheels however for rowing up or turning or at least you should. There will be three holes on top of the frame with a 'T'shaped handle.
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I think it's a PZ 275 you have, the top link "A" bracket and lack of a stand denotes this. Surprisingly the crop divider is still present as these were used as the stand on most and eventually broke. Check the input shaft where the PTO shaft fits on as this is the first place a bearing will usually go. I've replaced several bearings here for people and if left too long then the crown and pinion are goosed also. When greasing the rotors rotate them several revolutions by hand while greasing as its the gears you're greasing not the bearings and you want the grease evenly spread around on them not just squeezed out in one place. You've plenty of return springs to replace (these are sided) and are a pig to fit till you get used to it by which time you're usually finished the job. Don't forget when replacing tines that there are four different types fitted to a machine- on the left rotor every second tine is wide and the others are narrow. Similar for the right rotor and tines are sided left and right ( usually marked by a blue or a yellow spot on them). Hopefully you have the correct PTO guard which fits over the machine to prevent hay getting wrapped around the shaft.
That's enough to to keep you going for tonight!
MF30
 
Looks up together anyway, forgot to say the tine position should be moved between turning/spreading and rowing up, hole nearest the outside of the rotor for turning and inner hole for rowing up.

Happy haybobing!!:woot:
 
MF30 said:
I think it's a PZ 275 you have, the top link "A" bracket and lack of a stand denotes this. Surprisingly the crop divider is still present as these were used as the stand on most and eventually broke. Check the input shaft where the PTO shaft fits on as this is the first place a bearing will usually go. I've replaced several bearings here for people and if left too long then the crown and pinion are goosed also. When greasing the rotors rotate them several revolutions by hand while greasing as its the gears you're greasing not the bearings and you want the grease evenly spread around on them not just squeezed out in one place. You've plenty of return springs to replace (these are sided) and are a pig to fit till you get used to it by which time you're usually finished the job. Don't forget when replacing tines that there are four different types fitted to a machine- on the left rotor every second tine is wide and the others are narrow. Similar for the right rotor and tines are sided left and right ( usually marked by a blue or a yellow spot on them). Hopefully you have the correct PTO guard which fits over the machine to prevent hay getting wrapped around the shaft.
That's enough to to keep you going for tonight!
MF30
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Thanks very much for your help, all great info, especially checking the PTO cover as i think it may be slightly shy of covering the UJ fully. thankfully only got one spring to replace, i have however decided to replace all the tines (hence why there's none in the photo), as whole set was only £44
 
James liddington said:
Thanks very much for your help, all great info, especially checking the PTO cover as i think it may be slightly shy of covering the UJ fully. thankfully only got one spring to replace, i have however decided to replace all the tines (hence why there's none in the photo), as whole set was only £44
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If your PTO shaft is short just get one foot of 4 inch wavin pipe and slit it down the length. Get a U clamp of exhaust clamp slightly larger also. Spread out the pipe around the machine where the PTO stub is and place it that it safely covers the UJ. Clamp the pipe loosely to the machine and spread out the pipe as wide as possible at the PTO guard end to prevent friction. Tighten clamp and rotate PTO to check clearance.
This is hard to explain clearly but you might get the idea. If done correctly it is safe. A new Waltershield correct guard is around €150 plus vat if I remember correctly. I only recommend for health and safety reasons to replace complete guards but for those who find it too expensive this is an alternative without having hay wrapping around the shaft. No one should ever stand near a machine while running regardless of cover condition.
Maybe make a simple stand from box iron while we're on the subject of safety!
MF30
 
That's definitely a 275 Haybob alright. There were a few variants. Looks like that one has just the Category 2 lower links too.
 
Win said:
Looks up together anyway, forgot to say the tine position should be moved between turning/spreading and rowing up, hole nearest the outside of the rotor for turning and inner hole for rowing up.

Happy haybobing!!:woot:
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I find the simplest way to remember it is when tedding set all the tines in the bottom hole,the wheels in the bottom hole and the toplink in the bottom hole. And do the opposite when setting it up for rowing up.
 
Haybob Settings: Tedding; Outer hole for tines, Lower hole for toplink pin, Lower hole for wheel pin.
Rowing; Inner hole for tines, Top hole for toplink pin, Top hole for wheel pin.
Always turn to the left when tines are on the ground. Also you could leave the wheel pins in the middle hole for both tedding and rowing. This will save having to change them. I think looking at the photo that they are in the middle hole. All you need now is a good week in the middle of June.
 
tancoman said:
Haybob Settings: Tedding; Outer hole for tines, Lower hole for toplink pin, Lower hole for wheel pin.
Rowing; Inner hole for tines, Top hole for toplink pin, Top hole for wheel pin.
Always turn to the left when tines are on the ground. Also you could leave the wheel pins in the middle hole for both tedding and rowing. This will save having to change them. I think looking at the photo that they are in the middle hole. All you need now is a good week in the middle of June.
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For tedding By putting the top link in the lower hole thats further back is this to make the haybob lean slightly forward? And lower wheel pin holes for tedding to make it sit lower to the ground?
When walling up should the haybob be level?
 
James liddington said:
Thanks very much for your help, all great info, especially checking the PTO cover as i think it may be slightly shy of covering the UJ fully. thankfully only got one spring to replace, i have however decided to replace all the tines (hence why there's none in the photo), as whole set was only £44
Click to expand...
 

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Did you not have another guard for the wheel? There should be two on each wheel just like the left hand one there?

There are also guards for the edge of the two gates that you don't have but wouldn't worry about them.
 
James liddington said:
For tedding By putting the top link in the lower hole thats further back is this to make the haybob lean slightly forward? And lower wheel pin holes for tedding to make it sit lower to the ground?
When walling up should the haybob be level?
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The rotors should run parallel to the ground rowing up and then run the bob leaning as far forward as you can without rotavating for tedding

Forward speed is crucial! !!!!!!!!too fast and you'll make lumps
 
I wouldn't worry about faulty return springs. Even when new they only last about 3 years without grease. I just tie them up with twine and untie them when I get to the field. It is a two man job to fit the springs and even then it is not easy. If you want to avoid an accident you can weld the edge of two fender washers to the shock absorber chock on the left. that way you can put a pin in without the haybob swinging into cars on the road. Don't forget to remove it or the shock absorber will break off in the field. Always set the pto in motion before moving off or you will break tines.
 
matbro said:
I wouldn't worry about faulty return springs. Even when new they only last about 3 years without grease. I just tie them up with twine and untie them when I get to the field. It is a two man job to fit the springs and even then it is not easy. If you want to avoid an accident you can weld the edge of two fender washers to the shock absorber chock on the left. that way you can put a pin in without the haybob swinging into cars on the road. Don't forget to remove it or the shock absorber will break off in the field. Always set the pto in motion before moving off or you will break tines.
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Especially if the springs are gone!
 
matbro said:
I wouldn't worry about faulty return springs. Even when new they only last about 3 years without grease. I just tie them up with twine and untie them when I get to the field. It is a two man job to fit the springs and even then it is not easy. If you want to avoid an accident you can weld the edge of two fender washers to the shock absorber chock on the left. that way you can put a pin in without the haybob swinging into cars on the road. Don't forget to remove it or the shock absorber will break off in the field. Always set the pto in motion before moving off or you will break tines.
Click to expand...

I find that if you use it with a broken spring you end up bending the Tyne and you eventually break it.

I have changed so many springs now that I can do it in 2 minutes . It takes 2 flat headed screwdrivers and a hammer and punch for taking out the pin.

We set the reels at the same height for both rowing and Tedding and it works perfect. If you set it low you will break tynes. Although since the contractor got a rake our pz360 was made redundant and we just use the 300 for tedding. Thinking about changing it for a lely 300 as they are better for tedding. .
 
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