Kverneland plough maintenance

Jimmyboy

Active Member
Hi, I use a 4 furrow ed85 and noticed the 4 ball joint knuckles on each leg had slack bolts so I tightened them up but some of the bolts broke in half
Should I replace all 4 ball sockets or just the ones with the broken bolts seized in?
Mayby I should replace the whole lot on the plough, not sure.
Some advice would b much appreciatedCheers
 
Hi, I use a 4 furrow ed85 and noticed the 4 ball joint knuckles on each leg had slack bolts so I tightened them up but some of the bolts broke in half
Should I replace all 4 ball sockets or just the ones with the broken bolts seized in?
Mayby I should replace the whole lot on the plough, not sure.
Some advice would b much appreciatedCheers

I think that they should always replaced in 4's.
If the old ones were loose for some time you may need a shim to get the leg perfect again, but they would have had to be loose for a good length.
 
It's recommend that you should do all 4 when replacing one as the other 3 will be worn more than the new one,most people dont but that leg wont be sitting on all 4 balls ,used to carry a spare ball or two in the toolbox as could break in the field .but I wouldn't be doing all legs,just the one the ball broke on.
 
Mike Roche recommended using a die grinder to hone out the socket to accept a new ball properly as the old one would be reduced in size .
I carry a spare usually and just replace one if it breaks.
As usual once going again it's forgotten about.
Probably 2 or 3 per year replaced.
Changing them around wouldn't be simple as the bolts usually wring in the ball
 
Thanks for the replies, I will replace in fours the look at the sockets and what state they r in.
 
DA1DF9AC-0363-4BED-8F02-FBA9D3059004.jpeg 3FCF4BA3-8490-4422-8FE1-F9C7D92A5AB4.jpeg E7AFE27A-FF5C-4CAA-8A22-3C811E74BB0E.jpeg Getting the plough ready yesterday and discovered the pivot for the land wheel cracked. Didn’t have time to start dismantling but is it a case of removing the bracket that holds the top of the spring and buffers?
The inside end of the pivot shaft doesn’t have anything retaining it. Photo of that end not great.
 

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I should have said, bought the plough second hand and don’t have parts book? Do KV supply exploded view parts books?
 
Thanks, @Mid cork that’s what I was hoping. I suppose adding a weld from the inside of the plate to the shaft would cause it to catch when rotating.
 
View attachment 82225 View attachment 82224 View attachment 82223 Getting the plough ready yesterday and discovered the pivot for the land wheel cracked. Didn’t have time to start dismantling but is it a case of removing the bracket that holds the top of the spring and buffers?
The inside end of the pivot shaft doesn’t have anything retaining it. Photo of that end not great.
I’ve seen them crack there when the spring that slows the fall is not correctly tensioned. The wheel should start to drop as you lower the plough so it will contact the ground as the plough does. I think the wheel dropping down with a bang causes this to crack.
 
I’ve seen them crack there when the spring that slows the fall is not correctly tensioned. The wheel should start to drop as you lower the plough so it will contact the ground as the plough does. I think the wheel dropping down with a bang causes this to crack.
Interesting, I will play around with the spring tension when reassembling. It is a nuisance if the wheel drops too late but I can see the benefits of what you are saying, tyre cushions the bounce.
 
The picture is the valve block that turns the plough over (ES85).

The arrow is pointing to a 10mm nut. There’s a threaded piece coming out of the top of the nut. The threaded piece has a hole on the top that will take a small Allen key.

Oil has begun leaking from around this nut when turning the plough.
Has anyone come across this before? I’m not sure what it even does. It looks adjustable but I have touched it.
It’s not loose.



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The picture is the valve block that turns the plough over (ES85).

The arrow is pointing to a 10mm nut. There’s a threaded piece coming out of the top of the nut. The threaded piece has a hole on the top that will take a small Allen key.

Oil has begun leaking from around this nut when turning the plough.
Has anyone come across this before? I’m not sure what it even does. It looks adjustable but I have touched it.
It’s not loose.



View attachment 82912
Can't really see from the pic, but it looks like the adjustor for the valve block that controls the turnover ram, this has to be set depending on the weight of the plough. If your plough is not turning over or thinking hard of turning it is this that you need to adjust. I never saw it leak, but if you have to take it apart be very careful and take exact account of how it is set at the moment.
 
Can't really see from the pic, but it looks like the adjustor for the valve block that controls the turnover ram, this has to be set depending on the weight of the plough. If your plough is not turning over or thinking hard of turning it is this that you need to adjust. I never saw it leak, but if you have to take it apart be very careful and take exact account of how it is set at the moment.
Thanks G, it’s certainly designed for adjusting as there’s a hole in the cover to allow access down to this without having to remove the cover.
The pic is blurry as the phone didn’t know what part to focus on.
The plough seems to turn ok.
 
That’s exactly the part G.

I was just googling and it appears to be an adjuster for adjusting the oil pressure in the block.
The oil appears to be coming from the adjuster nut itself (10mm nut). The larger nut under it (27mm) acts as a locknut I think according to the book although I would have thought that the 10mm nut is the lock nut.

I wonder is it one of the two seals visible in your picture.
The Wexford plough men might get a call on Monday.

Edit, I might just take the two seals to Abbey seals on Monday and get new ones. Should be cheap and worth a bet.
 
That’s exactly the part G.

I was just googling and it appears to be an adjuster for adjusting the oil pressure in the block.
The oil appears to be coming from the adjuster nut itself (10mm nut). The larger nut under it (27mm) acts as a locknut I think according to the book although I would have thought that the 10mm nut is the lock nut.

I wonder is it one of the two seals visible in your picture.
The Wexford plough men might get a call on Monday.

Edit, I might just take the two seals to Abbey seals on Monday and get new ones. Should be cheap and worth a bet.
Looking at the diagram I'd say the small nut is the locknut, the threaded bit through it is the adjuster and the big nut holds the valve and everything else in place.
 
Looking at the diagram I'd say the small nut is the locknut, the threaded bit through it is the adjuster and the big nut holds the valve and everything else in place.
That little o-ring could be the offender, it looks like it slips into the groove around the top of the needle type piece. The then probably slides up inside the large 27mm nut, it has to slide up and down depending on the adjusted position but oil must be getting past the small o-ring and appearing out up at the 10mm lock nut....
 
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Any bother getting it set the same as before
Do you mean the position of the grub screw? I avoided moving it by leaving it intact but removing the piece that it was threaded into.

Did a bit of setting up on the plough this evening and the valve block appears to be functioning perfectly.
Lots of people probably take it for granted but I’m able to set the electric spool on a timer so that one press of the button rotates the plough, it all makes life easier.
 
Ah grand so, it was the housing, not the adjustment that was leaking.
Sort of. The grub screw presses down a sort of piston which is spring loaded. The piston is about 5mm diameter and the o ring is seated on it. The piston is removed out of the bottom of the housing so no need to touch the grub screw.
Abbey seals is a great spot to get seals and gaskets.
 
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