Massey 175 guages

mtb

Well-Known Member
Hi There.
I am looking to gat my gauges going. I have a Massey 175 multi power. I have attached pictures of the gauges on the dash. Do any of you know if these are original.
I'm unsure about the speedo as i read somewhere before that multi power was written on the dial of the speedo.
Also I am looking to wire up the amp meter but there are no wires attached. My questions is that the amp meter has no wire going to which would suggest that it is out action for a while and maybe used with the original set up, a dynamo. It has a range -30 to +30. It is now converted to alternator. Do I need a different range ampmeter?IMG_0926.jpg

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Your oil pressure and ammeter look original, the water temp gauge looks like a Vapormatic replacement which is close to the original. The ammeter was a Ferguson 20 size instead of a standard 52mm dial. It is not suitable for use with an alternator as a Lucas alternator on that size tractor will produce around 45 amps so go for a 60 amp ammeter or instead just get a voltmeter. Either way you will need to enlarge the dash hole to accommodate the new gauge.
 
The rev counter isn't original anyway I'd say, from memory it should have "MPH MULTI-POWER HIGH RATIO" top and bottom in place of "MPH" and "RPM X 100"
 
The amp meter is the only original gauge you have there. All the rest are replacements fitted at some point. An original rev counter would be a Smiths. If you look at how the needle comes through the face of the amp meter, (curved slot) thats how all the original AC gauges were done as well. That amp meter can be used with the alternator, it's very unlikely you'll ever have that tractor using more then 30 amps. That would require more lights then that tractor has as standard.
 
Hi Guys. Thats spot on.
TAFAT I had read some place alright that there was a difference but I couldn't remember what it was. Do you think it is reading ground speed correctly?
 
The amp meter is the only original gauge you have there. All the rest are replacements fitted at some point. An original rev counter would be a Smiths. If you look at how the needle comes through the face of the amp meter, (curved slot) thats how all the original AC gauges were done as well. That amp meter can be used with the alternator, it's very unlikely you'll ever have that tractor using more then 30 amps. That would require more lights then that tractor has as standard.
The tractor itself wouldn’t use any more than 30 amps but the surge of charge immediately after starting usually causes the alternator to produce maximum amps for a short time. The Ferguson 20 here used to produce 30 amps on startup and when I fitted it with an alternator I put a voltmeter on instead.
 
The amp meter is the only original gauge you have there. All the rest are replacements fitted at some point. An original rev counter would be a Smiths. If you look at how the needle comes through the face of the amp meter, (curved slot) thats how all the original AC gauges were done as well. That amp meter can be used with the alternator, it's very unlikely you'll ever have that tractor using more then 30 amps. That would require more lights then that tractor has as standard.
:thumbup1:
Hi Guys. Thats spot on.
TAFAT I had read some place alright that there was a difference but I couldn't remember what it was. Do you think it is reading ground speed correctly?
Those speeds would be with the multi-power in the low ratio. It doesn't read ground speed as such, it reads engine revs, the speed figures are really only a guide.
 
The tractor itself wouldn’t use any more than 30 amps but the surge of charge immediately after starting usually causes the alternator to produce maximum amps for a short time. The Ferguson 20 here used to produce 30 amps on startup and when I fitted it with an alternator I put a voltmeter on instead.
The 520 combine has one of those amp meters and it might for a brief period max out the clock after starting but generally within a minute or 2 the amps drop back to around 15 and sit there for a while until the battery is charged.
 
I would like to try and keep some bit of the dash original if i could . I might hook it up and see what is she reading. It may not even be working and if that is the case i might stick in voltmeter to keep wire size down
 
The 520 combine has one of those amp meters and it might for a brief period max out the clock after starting but generally within a minute or 2 the amps drop back to around 15 and sit there for a while until the battery is charged.
Our MH780 combine had the same and behaved exactly like yours, oil pressure gauge held solid at halfway hot or cold unlike the fergie 20 whose oil pressure drops a good bit at hot idle. Still have a box full of old Smiths and AC gauges that I used to collect, even have an ampmeter from a fordson major that the wire just ran through a loop at the back of the gauge instead of being directly connected to it.
 
I would like to try and keep some bit of the dash original if i could . I might hook it up and see what is she reading. It may not even be working and if that is the case i might stick in voltmeter to keep wire size down
The alternator charge wire goes directly to the battery terminal at the starter whereas the dynamo has two wires (D and F) and these go to one of two types of voltage regulator. The simple regulator has 4 terminals D= dynamo, F= field terminal on dynamo, A= amps or output charge wire to battery live and E= earth. The longer black box regulator also has a WL terminal which is warning light. Your ammeter may still be connected to the old circuit if it was left in place and won’t be working then.
 
The ampmeter is connected to nothing and there are no wires to connect it to anything. So i might connect it roughly tomorrow and see whats happening. It has an alternator since i have had it.Thanks for all your tips MF30
 
The ampmeter is connected to nothing and there are no wires to connect it to anything. So i might connect it roughly tomorrow and see whats happening. It has an alternator since i have had it.Thanks for all your tips MF30
If it reads discharge when it should be charging just swap the wires around. Before you start it turn on the lights and gauge should show a discharge. By the way all the small cables at the starter (power in and power out) should be brought back to the gauge and returned to the starter or battery. This will show both charge and discharge. Plenty of insulation on the cables is necessary as this cable is permanently live and unfused.
 
Spot thanks. I will have a fair idea so even before i switch it on with the lights on
 
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