Massey Ferguson 6180 clutch/trailer brake

Just wanna pick a few brains here. I bought a 6180. Trailer brakes didnt work so I tried to bleed trailer brake valve under cab. I can get oil flowing freely from valve but the pressure at the brake pipe where brakes are connected won't build up. I now notice it can be hard to get tractor into gear. The tractor tends to creep forward or backwards before going into gear, with a struggle. I think all the hydraulics are in the same circuit and I've lost pressure somehow.. Has anybody encountered something similar? Thanks
 
i know nothing specific to this tractor but looking at the parts book there's a low pressure distribution block(by master cylinders) for the brakes and i think clutch
have you bled the clutch as well?
 
Any issues with the other hydraulic functions,lift,pto,4wd,is the steering heavy.
Are there any lights showing on the dash,has it had fresh oil and the three filters changed,cleaned lately.
Did you clamp the return pipe from the distribution valve when bleeding the brakes.
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The back end is fully serviced and all filters changed.. There are no lights on the dash and all other hydraulics/steering and pto work fine.. I also clamped the pipe under bonnet when trying to bleed the trailer brakes.. The normal tractor brakes work perfect too
 
They might be 2 separate issues, the difficulty getting into gear might be a leak in the hydraulic release bearing with the creeping caused by pressure on the synchros, the trailer brake valve might be stuck.
 
They might be 2 separate issues, the difficulty getting into gear might be a leak in the hydraulic release bearing with the creeping caused by pressure on the synchros, the trailer brake valve might be stuck.

I've seen the valve stuck on a 600 Massey,it was a Bosch valve and worked fine once we'd figured the problem.
 
The 6290 was a right see you next Tuesday to bleed the trailer brake valve in just drove her for a few days and it half self bled.
Put a hose on then and kept pumping the pedal got all the air out
 
I think there's a bleed nipple down on the side of the bell housing on the left side if memory serves me for the clutch. It was that way on the 3650 mf we had anyway. It used get air into the circuit every now and then for no reason we could ever figure out and it used result in the trailer brakes stopping and the clutch only half disengaging. Wasn't hard to bleed when it did.
 
I think there's a bleed nipple down on the side of the bell housing on the left side if memory serves me for the clutch. It was that way on the 3650 mf we had anyway. It used get air into the circuit every now and then for no reason we could ever figure out and it used result in the trailer brakes stopping and the clutch only half disengaging. Wasn't hard to bleed when it did.
There should be a clutch valve with bleed screw on the right side gearbox cover on the 61s.
 
The back end is fully serviced and all filters changed.. There are no lights on the dash and all other hydraulics/steering and pto work fine.. I also clamped the pipe under bonnet when trying to bleed the trailer brakes.. The normal tractor brakes work perfect too
Have you cleaned the strainer filter above the pick up hitch.
 
Tried bleeding the clutch under cab.. Improves slightly but still very hard to get into gear..when oil is warm. Gonna replace seals etc in clutch master cylinder and see does that help.. Also gonna test low oil pressure circuit that operates clutch.. All filters have been changed in the back end already
 
Tried bleeding the clutch under cab.. Improves slightly but still very hard to get into gear..when oil is warm. Gonna replace seals etc in clutch master cylinder and see does that help.. Also gonna test low oil pressure circuit that operates clutch.. All filters have been changed in the back end already
Could be that the Accumulator has lost pressure.
 
Turned out the trailer brake was stuck as Arthur said above. Im gonna test the pressure at the clutch valve, under right side of cab, to see is it 17 bar as it should be. If not I think Ill get the accumulator tested to see is it 9 bar.. I think thats what they are supposed to be anyway.
 
Turned out the trailer brake was stuck as Arthur said above. Im gonna test the pressure at the clutch valve, under right side of cab, to see is it 17 bar as it should be. If not I think Ill get the accumulator tested to see is it 9 bar.. I think thats what they are supposed to be anyway.[/

Can I ask how did u free out the trailer brake and get it going Thx ?
 
Does anybody know what fitting is required to test the components of low pressure hydraulic system in a 6180. I recently got a new accumulator fitted. Came set at 11bar, my steering is very light not sure if orbital unit or seal away in ram itself, the brake pedal goes down a good bit, clutch can be very jumpy an I lost all brake pedal this morning while drawing second 11ton load of stone was rather scary try to get stopped. The brake pedal then came back about an hour later though. Not sure exactly what to do.. never buy a tractor from Howard Fulton tractors Northern Ireland complete nightmare.
Thanks for any responses
 
Does anybody know what fitting is required to test the components of low pressure hydraulic system in a 6180. I recently got a new accumulator fitted. Came set at 11bar, my steering is very light not sure if orbital unit or seal away in ram itself, the brake pedal goes down a good bit, clutch can be very jumpy an I lost all brake pedal this morning while drawing second 11ton load of stone was rather scary try to get stopped. The brake pedal then came back about an hour later though. Not sure exactly what to do.. never buy a tractor from Howard Fulton tractors Northern Ireland complete nightmare.
Thanks for any responses
I’m nearly certain the accumulator should be set to 9bar for a 6100 series.
 
Hello ok no problem, what’s the safest way of taking the accumulator off to get the pressure dropped to 9bar? Thanks
 
Have a 6180 massey , can’t keep pressure in the break pedals , loose pressure once I realise the pedals after a couple of seconds . But once I pump 4 or 5 times they come hard , release the pedal gone again. When bled I’m not getting great pressure out the bleed screws , only a little spirt , no pressure at all out the trailer break but getting oil at bleed screw on trailer break valve . My master cylinders are bone dry . Don’t think there’s seals gone there, any advice greatly appreciated
 
Have a 6180 massey , can’t keep pressure in the break pedals , loose pressure once I realise the pedals after a couple of seconds . But once I pump 4 or 5 times they come hard , release the pedal gone again. When bled I’m not getting great pressure out the bleed screws , only a little spirt , no pressure at all out the trailer break but getting oil at bleed screw on trailer break valve . My master cylinders are bone dry . Don’t think there’s seals gone there, any advice greatly appreciated
Are the brakes failing completely or just a lot of travel before they come on?. It is normal for the brake pedal to travel up to half way before the brakes are applied. Pumping will makes the pedals go hard but there not supposed to be like that.
I assume you have the engine running when your bleeding the system. Also split the brakes and pump them using both feet in a seesaw function. When bleeding each side at the trumpets push down that sides brake pedal first but then push down the other pedal as well. You'll get double the oil flow from the bleed nipple as both master cylinders are connected. It takes a lot to bleed these tractors and it can take a while to actually get the air out.
 
assuming its open centre hydraulics as mine was, its now sold

clamp the two return pipes under the bonnet, easier to explain with a picture but i cant.
then open the two bleed screws on the rear axles.
set the engine to high idle
pump one brake pedal and as u release it pump the other do this about 20 times nics and smoothly.
then turn steering full lock each way for about ten times,
do them things a few times then close the bleed screws and test.

to bled the trailer brake after this
open the bleed screw for it
lock the brake pedals and push them as hard as u can to they go fully down, a few times, then close and check

been a while since i did that but normally had brakes in 10 mins and they lasted well.

this closed centrre hydraulics was different but not many 6180 had that.
 
Any ideas why 6180 would loose pedal pressure after a long run on the road but perfect when tipping round the yard ? .. pedal just goes a bit softer when travelling in the road
 
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