New wheelbarrow

I always found with treads in casting’s is to use treaded bar rather than set screws so you can go full depth with the treaded bar and then use nuts to do the tightening .
If you cannot get treaded bar get long set screws and screw them in full and have a nut to tighten them when they bottom out .
 
I always found with treads in casting’s is to use treaded bar rather than set screws so you can go full depth with the treaded bar and then use nuts to do the tightening .
If you cannot get treaded bar get long set screws and screw them in full and have a nut to tighten them when they bottom out .
Is that why studs are often used rather than bolts in castings?


In this situation I don't think it's a blind hole. The casting is a hollow section, but I must check
 
I got an m22x2.5 tap in Brownlows (score one for the Cork boys, EPT didn't have one in stock)

Some craic turning a tap that size, takes a lot of turning so I was freaking out I'd break it in the hole.

Washed the brackets and poured a dozen welding rods into the cracks. Its a wonder this thing survived at all. The crossmember is only a folded 3mm channel with two other pieces folded into it, it's not even a box across the full width of the tractor. Ideally I'd take the time and make a new crossmember from rectangular box section but hopefully this repair will see it out.

The other part of the problem is that the diagonal braces to the tombstone don't actually have a solid mounting, they bolt into the ends of a bar that goes across through the tombstone and are held "tight" by 1/2 inch bolts and washers. It's a recipe for slack and wear from the get go. I have some minor tweaks in mind for a new length of bar that should hold it tighter.

To be fair to David Brown this was the early days of loaders and they were clearly trying to keep the weight manageable unlike the lumps Massey Ferguson were fitting on 135s of the same era.
 

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This bar goes through the tombstone and through the loader brace bars and is supposed to provide a solid mounting. But with a bit of use it gets loose and I think contributes to the cracks in the upright/crossmember.

You can see the wear on the end here, plus a bit in the tombstone and the braces makes for lots of play.

I've cut some pieces of the unworn bar and holesawed some washers from 10mm flat. Drilled them all out to 16mm and with the spacers being a little shorter than the thickness of the tombstone and brace I should be able to clamp them dead tight.

I've had the lathe over a year but still not done much with it, I've been struggling to get good results. This is closest I've gotten to proper turning
 

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More lathe learning.


Made bushes from precision tube. Holes in the loader were a bit oval so I made them slightly oversized and then threw the precision engineering out the window and flap wheeled top and bottom of the bushing and pulled em in with some M24 bar.

Made new pins using trailer pins, cut the head off and grind a flat on one side of the flange and they make a tidy looking loader pin.


I was saying to herself that I actually really need to do a similar job on the 4600 loader with years but it's so handy to do a job like this when the machine is in the yard Vs 60 miles away.
 

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This chapter is done. Up early yesterday and refitted the loader with new hoses on the rams, put some effort into bleeding the air out and then it went straight to work loading some root balls into the trailer.

Maybe over the winter I might convert it to a power function on the bucket end but I'll work away on the trip for now.
 

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This chapter is done. Up early yesterday and refitted the loader with new hoses on the rams, put some effort into bleeding the air out and then it went straight to work loading some root balls into the trailer.

Maybe over the winter I might convert it to a power function on the bucket end but I'll work away on the trip for now.
Great to see its back running. I’ll have to get you in for some contract chipping.
 
Took a while.....

Bearing 13 above isn't easy got. CNH stopped doing it a few years back but it was 200ish euro anyway.

Nothing off the shelf available but I found something off the shelf that was a bit wider. Rang one or two places that are still to ring me back so ordered online from the Netherlands for 20 euro. Bit of a faff with UPS and it's stuck in limbo in the UK so they sent another one which landed today.


How do you narrow a bearing? It's a job for a decent lathe and some quality carbide cutters. Or a toolpost grinder. I have a basic small lathe, chinesium cutters and no toolpost grinder.

So I did the only logical thing and bolted the death wheel onto the toolpost. And it worked an absolute treat. 20 minutes, most of which was spent cooling the bearing with a wet rag and I had a perfect substitute. Gave it a touch of a stone more usually seen sharpening the billhook and called it good.

The box is very simple so I had it back together in no time and refitted.

While I'd been waiting on the parts I'd dropped the hydraulic sump and removed the strainer for cleaning. It was a miracle any oil was getting through at all and when I cleaned it I tore the mesh. These are also pretty impossible to find but thankfully there was no rust or big holes so on the suggestion of a mate I tried to solder it which worked fine.

With everything back together the loader is lifting multiples of what it could before and the pump is running so much quieter. It'll be a while before I test the PTO in anger but it's turning much smoother.

I'm collecting a mini digger for some jobs in the morning so it'll have the transport box on for the weekend and be doing dumper duty.
September last year I had ordered a bearing from the Netherlands. It got lost in UPS and the supplier replaced it.


It turned up last week, nearly 11 months in the system
 
September last year I had ordered a bearing from the Netherlands. It got lost in UPS and the supplier replaced it.


It turned up last week, nearly 11 months in the system
How did you manage without it in the meantime?
 
Going to convert to trip loader to hydraulic dump.

Aiming for a central linkage, kinda like this Massey 40
Screenshot_20231113-225020.png
but with the ram pointing backwards like the ford loaders
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I had a spare cylinder on the shelf, when extended there is some damage but it's probably too long anyway so I'm hoping there's enough undamaged chrome that I can shorten it. I've cleaned up the road and left it out in the rain, if there's hidden scratches they won't be long showing themselves
 

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