Is that why studs are often used rather than bolts in castings?I always found with treads in casting’s is to use treaded bar rather than set screws so you can go full depth with the treaded bar and then use nuts to do the tightening .
If you cannot get treaded bar get long set screws and screw them in full and have a nut to tighten them when they bottom out .
I'd forgotten about that crossbeam, it actually goes through the bellhousing if I remember correctly.Under the bonnet, it's also the hydraulic pipe between the rams. Quite a clever design really
Most would use the sticky out bit on the other end of the caliperHow do you measure the depth of the thread in the casting?
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Yes, John has very ladylike fingers, my index finger fits in a 3/4 hole.
Just gonna bore it out and tap to M22 or M24. Won't need a bottom tap, the casting is hollow.
Most would use the sticky out bit on the other end of the caliper
Get one. It's a lot of fun. Extremely frustrating at first I have to sayI did promise myself a lathe, just got to build a shed for it first….
Great to see its back running. I’ll have to get you in for some contract chipping.This chapter is done. Up early yesterday and refitted the loader with new hoses on the rams, put some effort into bleeding the air out and then it went straight to work loading some root balls into the trailer.
Maybe over the winter I might convert it to a power function on the bucket end but I'll work away on the trip for now.
September last year I had ordered a bearing from the Netherlands. It got lost in UPS and the supplier replaced it.Took a while.....
Bearing 13 above isn't easy got. CNH stopped doing it a few years back but it was 200ish euro anyway.
Nothing off the shelf available but I found something off the shelf that was a bit wider. Rang one or two places that are still to ring me back so ordered online from the Netherlands for 20 euro. Bit of a faff with UPS and it's stuck in limbo in the UK so they sent another one which landed today.
How do you narrow a bearing? It's a job for a decent lathe and some quality carbide cutters. Or a toolpost grinder. I have a basic small lathe, chinesium cutters and no toolpost grinder.
So I did the only logical thing and bolted the death wheel onto the toolpost. And it worked an absolute treat. 20 minutes, most of which was spent cooling the bearing with a wet rag and I had a perfect substitute. Gave it a touch of a stone more usually seen sharpening the billhook and called it good.
The box is very simple so I had it back together in no time and refitted.
While I'd been waiting on the parts I'd dropped the hydraulic sump and removed the strainer for cleaning. It was a miracle any oil was getting through at all and when I cleaned it I tore the mesh. These are also pretty impossible to find but thankfully there was no rust or big holes so on the suggestion of a mate I tried to solder it which worked fine.
With everything back together the loader is lifting multiples of what it could before and the pump is running so much quieter. It'll be a while before I test the PTO in anger but it's turning much smoother.
I'm collecting a mini digger for some jobs in the morning so it'll have the transport box on for the weekend and be doing dumper duty.
How did you manage without it in the meantime?September last year I had ordered a bearing from the Netherlands. It got lost in UPS and the supplier replaced it.
It turned up last week, nearly 11 months in the system
They sent me a replacement at the time which passed through the system in 3 daysHow did you manage without it in the meantime?