New wheelbarrow

Honestly, I'm doing the wiring, servicing, front axle rebuild, tightening up the hitch and stopping there. I've pretty much all the parts bought by now.

Honestly
 
Lots done over the last few days. People were even so keen to get off the couch yesterday I had the whole crew out for an hour (ok my Mrs was the only one that actually volunteered, but the kids didn't object too strongly)

Wiring is done bar the lights section on the bonnet and the tail/wing lamps but it's all in place and tested with the meter. This means the fuel tank could go back on with new foam rubbers, my wife's more delicate hands fitted better underneath to bolt it back down.

Myself and the boy replaced the water pump and my daughter tightened up some loose bolts on the hitch and fitted some bolt in pins for the lift arms to mount to.

It was all going so well until I went to replace the copper washers on the lift pump inlet banjo bolt as it was leaking after id opened it. Stripped the frickin thread out of the casting :censored: so it's new pump time
 

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Lots done over the last few days. People were even so keen to get off the couch yesterday I had the whole crew out for an hour (ok my Mrs was the only one that actually volunteered, but the kids didn't object too strongly)

Wiring is done bar the lights section on the bonnet and the tail/wing lamps but it's all in place and tested with the meter. This means the fuel tank could go back on with new foam rubbers, my wife's more delicate hands fitted better underneath to bolt it back down.

Myself and the boy replaced the water pump and my daughter tightened up some loose bolts on the hitch and fitted some bolt in pins for the lift arms to mount to.

It was all going so well until I went to replace the copper washers on the lift pump inlet banjo bolt as it was leaking after id opened it. Stripped the frickin thread out of the casting :censored: so it's new pump time
Looking good, you have a lot of problems eliminated.
When changing the fuel pump there is a short pushrod operating the pump thats driven by the camshaft, check the end isn't worn. Also while the bonnet is off that fan belt is well worn on the shoulders.
 
Yeah it's nearly sorted, didn't need much to be fair. The belt only went back on because the new one was too short.

Is that pushrod separate from the pump arm? Assuming it's a normal arm driven pump like on other yokes?
 
Yeah it's nearly sorted, didn't need much to be fair. The belt only went back on because the new one was too short.

Is that pushrod separate from the pump arm? Assuming it's a normal arm driven pump like on other yokes?
If it’s the same as the 3cyl it’s a separate part about an inch long and as thick as a haybob tine. Ours wore by about 2mm and stopped pumping altogether, didn’t know how long a new one was so bought a new pushrod and that sorted it.
 
Lots done over the last few days. People were even so keen to get off the couch yesterday I had the whole crew out for an hour (ok my Mrs was the only one that actually volunteered, but the kids didn't object too strongly)

Wiring is done bar the lights section on the bonnet and the tail/wing lamps but it's all in place and tested with the meter. This means the fuel tank could go back on with new foam rubbers, my wife's more delicate hands fitted better underneath to bolt it back down.

Myself and the boy replaced the water pump and my daughter tightened up some loose bolts on the hitch and fitted some bolt in pins for the lift arms to mount to.

It was all going so well until I went to replace the copper washers on the lift pump inlet banjo bolt as it was leaking after id opened it. Stripped the frickin thread out of the casting :censored: so it's new pump time

No such thing as brand loyalty in your house anyway!!!!
 
God no. And there's some Massey ones on the shelf too small for herself and too big for him.

I even succumbed and bought some branded ones myself recently purely because I couldn't find anything other than westaro sh*te in the size/style I wanted in stock anywhere
 
Fuel pump top piece arrived today, along with an investment in a set of whitworth spanners. Nice to have spanners fitting properly. Got it bled up and starting handy enough. For some reason I took the throttle linkage apart while rewiring. That was easy when there was no fuel tank. Right pain now getting it reset right with everything back together.

Next up is fitting the loader. Bit of juggling to extricate it from under the cab with only a ten year old for help.
 

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Fuel pump top piece arrived today, along with an investment in a set of whitworth spanners. Nice to have spanners fitting properly. Got it bled up and starting handy enough. For some reason I took the throttle linkage apart while rewiring. That was easy when there was no fuel tank. Right pain now getting it reset right with everything back together.

Next up is fitting the loader. Bit of juggling to extricate it from under the cab with only a ten year old for help.
Do they use Whitworth bolts?
A set of standard imperial spanners is a great investment, but I could never get my head around Whitworth spanners.
Whitworth 1/2" spanner is the same size as a standard 3/4" imperial spanner? I think, but as I say I never really got my head around it.
 
Do they use Whitworth bolts?
A set of standard imperial spanners is a great investment, but I could never get my head around Whitworth spanners.
Whitworth 1/2" spanner is the same size as a standard 3/4" imperial spanner? I think, but as I say I never really got my head around it.
Whitworth measure the shank not the head, but there is also 2 different size whitworth.
 
Do they use Whitworth bolts?
A set of standard imperial spanners is a great investment, but I could never get my head around Whitworth spanners.
Whitworth 1/2" spanner is the same size as a standard 3/4" imperial spanner? I think, but as I say I never really got my head around it.
I would have thought imperial spanners would have covered everything on a DB.
 
Yeah I'd found myself using all sorts of odd metric spanners: 12, 13, 15, very few imperial sizes were fitting right, lots of heads were getting damaged because nothing fitted quite right so said f*ckit buy the right ones, only a cheap set but such a pleasure to use compared to ones that kinda fit. I bought my first proper tools 20 years ago when I finished college and I've managed until now with metric and regular a/f imperial so not too bad I suppose
 
Setting the throttle linkage just right took an age, two ball joints on the rod, a threaded adjuster in the middle of the rod and two seized stops on the steering column.

Loader is on, only one smashed finger in the process so I'm calling that a result.

Next up is fitting the chipper. The 20 had short arms and and adapter on the PTO so I had to shorten the shaft too much. I have this old haybob shaft, does anyone have any magic tricks for measuring these for cutting to maximize the length but not have to trim it over and over?

Last thing is it's putting oil out the breather when revving. I thought this might be the breather in the head as they are prone to blocking but I have it well cleaned. I'm struggling to believe it would be rings given its starting so well. Could valve adjustment cause it?
 

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Setting the throttle linkage just right took an age, two ball joints on the rod, a threaded adjuster in the middle of the rod and two seized stops on the steering column.

Loader is on, only one smashed finger in the process so I'm calling that a result.

Next up is fitting the chipper. The 20 had short arms and and adapter on the PTO so I had to shorten the shaft too much. I have this old haybob shaft, does anyone have any magic tricks for measuring these for cutting to maximize the length but not have to trim it over and over?

Last thing is it's putting oil out the breather when revving. I thought this might be the breather in the head as they are prone to blocking but I have it well cleaned. I'm struggling to believe it would be rings given its starting so well. Could valve adjustment cause it?
It’s coming on nicely @JohnBoy, fair play.
On the pto issue, would another adapter get you out of bother? You can buy them with the 1 3/8” both sides so effectively an extender. There are a few types available and come in different lengths.
Just had a quick look and they’re 2 examples I found
 
I normally take the shaft off and put the implement on, lift it till the 2 stubs are as close to horizontal to each other as I can get it and measure it there, which is pretty much the same as the video above really, but just to be safe I put each half on their respective end whilst still separated and then hold the tubes together alongside each other just to be certain I have it right.
 
The PTO adaptors make it a bit wobbly, best cut another shaft to correct length. Fit one shaft onto tractor and while both halves are still apart fit the other shaft to chipper. Hold the two halves alongside each other and cut them about 3 inches short of each others end. When refitted properly you should be able to compress the shaft enough to remove it from tractors end while the pto shaft is dead level or at its shortest overlap.
Is the engine oil level high? Remove dipstick and check if oil is blown out here while running. Later 880s had the rocker cover breather piped into the air intake housing of the filter to be burnt again.
 
My way of doing the PTO shaft, mount the chipper and lift it till the pto stubs on tractor and chipper are at their closest, measure the distance between the locking grooves on each stub, subtract 3-4 inches from this measurement and note it, then separate the shaft to be shortened and lay the 2 halves side by side with the lock pins apart the measurement you noted, then you will see on the outer cover how much you need to shorten it by, shorten each part of profile tube and cover by this amount.
 
I'll merge those ideas into one and see how many attempts it takes to get right :)

@ZetorMan98 I'd rather not use adapters, as they wobble and push the guards a long way from where they should be. Given how much longer the 880 lift arms are I'd probably need an adapter at each end, and I'm pretty sure this shaft (from a fahr, not an actual haybob) has not turned in anger in I'd say over 30 years. It came from my aunt's farm and I think she took the pz haybob from the home place in the early 90s when my father stopped making hay for my granny which retired the fahr
 
It's a small bit over full alright @MF30 due to be changed anyway so hopefully that'll stop it. there's very little blowby I think. and as I say it starts very well, this is from cold overnight.


Managed to not mess up the shaft went on first attempt. a testament to the quality of plastic used by waltershceid 30+ years ago, the guard isnt brittle or anything. need a nylon bearing ring for one end of the guard and it could ideally use a UJ too, but not bad for a free shaft. ran the chipper up to 600rpm in 1000PTO, it's so much less dramatic than the 20 was at maybe 500rpm

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Few more electrical jobs done too. I put the battery cover from the 20 (which was under a pile of stuff when I sold the 20) onto it. made from a server cabinet foot and some cow mat many years ago it was held down by some long J bolts into my homemade battery tray. Well the 880 has a similarly homemade looking battery tray, which has holes in the exact same spot so the cover bolted straight on.
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Alternator stopped charging somewhere along the way, most likely because of power washing. took the regulator off, bit of contact cleaner spray and we're away. I have fitted a second hand smiths temperature gauge and got a sender too but they are not compatible it seems as the temperature got up to about 30 degrees and the gauge was off the scale. could take a bit of trial and error to get it right.
 
You might get a nice period capillary type temperature gauge for it that doesn’t use electrical wiring, the sender screws into the thermostat housing and sends its signal up the capillary tube to the gauge. Can’t go wrong then.
 
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