New wheelbarrow

Nearly everytime I open this thread, I expect to see an actual wheelbarrow but then I'm pleasantly surprised to see the progress you're making. Nice work as always JohnBoy :thumbup1:
 
Well that didn't last long. Have gone from amazing hydraulics this morning to unable to lift the transport box. Everything was fine one load, the next it wouldn't lift, now it won't lift it empty!
 
Well that didn't last long. Have gone from amazing hydraulics this morning to unable to lift the transport box. Everything was fine one load, the next it wouldn't lift, now it won't lift it empty!
Underneath the dump valve on the right side is a control valve plunger that can stick if used infrequently. If the pump is not straining or noisy this might be your next port of call. Half hour job.
 
Underneath the dump valve on the right side is a control valve plunger that can stick if used infrequently. If the pump is not straining or noisy this might be your next port of call. Half hour job.
Or it could be that I'm a f*ckin eejit and have been hitting off the three valves and turned the linkage off.
 

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Or it could be that I'm a f*ckin eejit and have been hitting off the three valves and turned the linkage off.
Been there done very similar, had to ring the dealer twice when the Deutz refused to move, both times I had slightly moved the lever that engages the creeper gears when getting a jumper/ coat from behind the seat, slightly embarrassing the first time, felt like a complete fool the second time.
Still easier to get over than an actual problem.
 
Been there done very similar, had to ring the dealer twice when the Deutz refused to move, both times I had slightly moved the lever that engages the creeper gears when getting a jumper/ coat from behind the seat, slightly embarrassing the first time, felt like a complete fool the second time.
Still easier to get over than an actual problem.
Didn’t realise you were Jeremy clarkson 😂😂😂
 
Been having cutting out issues the last two weekends, at first I thought it was the tank breather as I swore I heard a little suck in when I opened it to check if I was out of fuel but it turned out to be dirty fuel. first bit of proper use in years I suppose stirring up the bottom of the tank.

First I check the filter and while it didnt look amazing it didnt look blocked either. I said I'd replace it anyway, had stuff on hire so needed to keep the show on the road. I don't have fuel filters in stock at home and dont have somewhere to buy them on a sunday morning so had to use this:

1664268730688.png

On one hand it's a pity as it was a cool thing to have on the shelf and came from cleaning out a relative's farm. but on the other hand she'd never be one for being emotionally attached to a fuel filter if a machine was down!

Thing is that wasn't my problem at all. I'd forgotten their's a strainer under the tank. and that looked like.........

1664268863100.png

Cleaned that and we were back in action. I find it quite hard to bleed though.

I bleed the bottom screw on the pump, it sprays. Then I bleed the top screw which only ever seems to dribble. Then I crack the 4 injector lines, closing 1 and 4 first then turn it over again and close 2 and 3 as they seem to flow later than 1 and 4. At this stage it still will not start. needs a sniff of easy start and then it'll fire and run perfect. never needs easy start except for when bleeding, in normal operation it will start in a turn or two from cold, it's a great starter. Am I missing a trick on the bleed process?
 
Been having cutting out issues the last two weekends, at first I thought it was the tank breather as I swore I heard a little suck in when I opened it to check if I was out of fuel but it turned out to be dirty fuel. first bit of proper use in years I suppose stirring up the bottom of the tank.

First I check the filter and while it didnt look amazing it didnt look blocked either. I said I'd replace it anyway, had stuff on hire so needed to keep the show on the road. I don't have fuel filters in stock at home and dont have somewhere to buy them on a sunday morning so had to use this:

View attachment 113363

On one hand it's a pity as it was a cool thing to have on the shelf and came from cleaning out a relative's farm. but on the other hand she'd never be one for being emotionally attached to a fuel filter if a machine was down!

Thing is that wasn't my problem at all. I'd forgotten their's a strainer under the tank. and that looked like.........

View attachment 113364

Cleaned that and we were back in action. I find it quite hard to bleed though.

I bleed the bottom screw on the pump, it sprays. Then I bleed the top screw which only ever seems to dribble. Then I crack the 4 injector lines, closing 1 and 4 first then turn it over again and close 2 and 3 as they seem to flow later than 1 and 4. At this stage it still will not start. needs a sniff of easy start and then it'll fire and run perfect. never needs easy start except for when bleeding, in normal operation it will start in a turn or two from cold, it's a great starter. Am I missing a trick on the bleed process?
Is it a rotary pump on your 4600?
They are always difficult to bleed?
Best to have a fairly full tank of fuel.
 
Been having cutting out issues the last two weekends, at first I thought it was the tank breather as I swore I heard a little suck in when I opened it to check if I was out of fuel but it turned out to be dirty fuel. first bit of proper use in years I suppose stirring up the bottom of the tank.

First I check the filter and while it didnt look amazing it didnt look blocked either. I said I'd replace it anyway, had stuff on hire so needed to keep the show on the road. I don't have fuel filters in stock at home and dont have somewhere to buy them on a sunday morning so had to use this:

View attachment 113363

On one hand it's a pity as it was a cool thing to have on the shelf and came from cleaning out a relative's farm. but on the other hand she'd never be one for being emotionally attached to a fuel filter if a machine was down!

Thing is that wasn't my problem at all. I'd forgotten their's a strainer under the tank. and that looked like.........

View attachment 113364

Cleaned that and we were back in action. I find it quite hard to bleed though.

I bleed the bottom screw on the pump, it sprays. Then I bleed the top screw which only ever seems to dribble. Then I crack the 4 injector lines, closing 1 and 4 first then turn it over again and close 2 and 3 as they seem to flow later than 1 and 4. At this stage it still will not start. needs a sniff of easy start and then it'll fire and run perfect. never needs easy start except for when bleeding, in normal operation it will start in a turn or two from cold, it's a great starter. Am I missing a trick on the bleed process?
I'm afraid I am of no help to you, it was always good to start, no doubt my old man probably did bleed it at some stage but we cant ask him anymore. Sorry about that.
 
I'm afraid I am of no help to you, it was always good to start, no doubt my old man probably did bleed it at some stage but we cant ask him anymore. Sorry about that.
Nothing at all to be sorry about. it's a cracker to start normally. I just feel like I'm missing something on the bleed process.
 
Is it a rotary pump on your 4600?
They are always difficult to bleed?
Best to have a fairly full tank of fuel.

I think he means the DB ,never seen a 4cyl 4600.


Th' Lancashire lad is right. But if it was the 4600 then yes, it's a bit of a mare to bleed as it doesnt have a lift pump but once it's bled it'll fire, this isnt firing the first time without a little spray of love
 
Th' Lancashire lad is right. But if it was the 4600 then yes, it's a bit of a mare to bleed as it doesnt have a lift pump but once it's bled it'll fire, this isnt firing the first time without a little spray of love
Has the pump got a retarder screw?

My 3cyl 880 had one on its cav pump,made a real difference to cold starts.
 
The loader needs some love. This tractor was originally bought as a loader tractor on a livestock farm, it mucked out a lot of sheds.

some of the bolts holding on the loader are loose and this movement has allowed some cracking between one of the uprights and the crossmember under the bellhousing. Nothing major, but wondering how best to deal with the bolts.

The threads are pretty worn on the bolts and I assume the holes in the casting arent going to be much better. the bolt is 18.3mm diameter. The way I see it I have two options. retap the holes to M20x1.5 thread which needs an 18.5mm hole. Or I drill them out and helicoil back to M20x2.5 which would be the more standard thread.

I have neither an M20 tap, nor an M20 helicoil and I'm not sure which way to go. An M20x1.5 tap set will be similar money to a cheap m20x2.5 helicoil kit. Some say helicoils are stronger than an original thread but I'm not sure?
 
The loader needs some love. This tractor was originally bought as a loader tractor on a livestock farm, it mucked out a lot of sheds.

some of the bolts holding on the loader are loose and this movement has allowed some cracking between one of the uprights and the crossmember under the bellhousing. Nothing major, but wondering how best to deal with the bolts.

The threads are pretty worn on the bolts and I assume the holes in the casting arent going to be much better. the bolt is 18.3mm diameter. The way I see it I have two options. retap the holes to M20x1.5 thread which needs an 18.5mm hole. Or I drill them out and helicoil back to M20x2.5 which would be the more standard thread.

I have neither an M20 tap, nor an M20 helicoil and I'm not sure which way to go. An M20x1.5 tap set will be similar money to a cheap m20x2.5 helicoil kit. Some say helicoils are stronger than an original thread but I'm not sure?
Are there 4 holes in the chassis just before the loader brackets that you could extend a plate over, and bolt it to the chassis and weld plate to loader brackets as extra support?
 
That was done in the past, but the threads were already worn at that stage I'd say. It has held at one side but cracked on the other so I'll redo the threads and repair the crack and it'll be good for another 50 years.
 
That was done in the past, but the threads were already worn at that stage I'd say. It has held at one side but cracked on the other so I'll redo the threads and repair the crack and it'll be good for another 50 years.
Has it got the stabiliser bar across over the bonnet? Quite important for keeping everything tight.
 
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