Ploughing tips and tricks

evening lads, just wondering if opening up plough 16 inches, would make the furrow turn over better? currently running at 14 inches and finding bits are not burying to well, in ideal conditions its fine but if dragging along iron pan your lifting the whole furrow off if you understand, the "hinge part" is broken
If you got no hinge it won't turn properly, push it out and try it you ought to see a difference.
 
We were ploughing Lea one day and we slowed down and it made a difference . The sod was sitting on the board for a second breaking the hinge and get carried forward before turning . By slowing down it turned better .
 
I use a manual variwidth and having been taught that narrower furrows were tidier and neater all around I never went above 16 , often staying at 14.
Then one day while ploughing a tough old grass sward that hadnt even been sprayed off and being fed up by doing a poor job ,having adjusted everything else up and down, in and out, I opened it right out to 20 inches thinking at least it would end the hardship sooner.
Well , it was like the fairies had come down and landed on the plough. Everything changed, sods turned perfectly ,trash got buried and bouts matched up A1.
Never moved away from 20 ins since.
 
14 inch shares should be ok , i set up the plough for every field ,by ploughing wider you have to go deeper,only use 20 inch for maize stubbles
 
It's the bar type one that silage and you put in a pin.
I dont tho I have it solid?
Ya if stabilisers are tight if you try take a bend out of it, it'll fight against you. On the deutz ere it's a slotted hole type thing it allows about 2 inches of movement in each arm. If set right a plough will nearly take bends out of the furrow with out to much hassel. The top link should be straight from tractor to plough when you look out back window. Also what width are your wheels? And what width are your furrows. Basic things like plough should be upright when in the furrow and level with the ground if you get me. Have your tape to hand put the plough in the ground and see if 1st the stabilisers are tight then see what width your furrows are
 
Go away now and practise some more, and report back in another 15 months :lol:
 
Go away now and practise some more, and report back in another 15 months :lol:
The amount of ploughing I've done so far this year isn't worth mentioning an awful lot of lads had planned on reseeding ground but with the way the year is gone it just hasn't materialised.
The past week is like something out of January down here
 
The amount of ploughing I've done so far this year isn't worth mentioning an awful lot of lads had planned on reseeding ground but with the way the year is gone it just hasn't materialised.
The past week is like something out of January down here
Invest in a depth wheel in the meantime. You are going to struggle ploughing in the kingdom without one
 
No skimmers. Il take a pic tomorrow of the other side of the field. Must take a before and after with new points
 
Johndeere6920s how is the wear on the cross shaft on the John Deere? I had issues with ploughing before with mine and it turned out the cross shaft was worn and the back sod wasn't sinking enough.. Regarding the ploughing there is fcuk all wrong with it really, what I do is set the clasp on the stabiliser with the chain so it clicks in when you lift the plough and unlocks when you lower.. As for the bends towards the headlands.. Steer toward the ploughing slightly and then lift the plough slightly as you cross onto the already ploughed ground so as your first board won't re dig the ploughing.
 
Johndeere6920s how is the wear on the cross shaft on the John Deere? I had issues with ploughing before with mine and it turned out the cross shaft was worn and the back sod wasn't sinking enough.. Regarding the ploughing there is fcuk all wrong with it really, what I do is set the clasp on the stabiliser with the chain so it clicks in when you lift the plough and unlocks when you lower.. As for the bends towards the headlands.. Steer toward the ploughing slightly and then lift the plough slightly as you cross onto the already ploughed ground so as your first board won't re dig the ploughing.

Crosshaft is extremely worn at this stage.
Had planned on changing it a good while back but never did.
Ive a feeling what ploughing is to be done will be waiting until next spring at this stage.
Will report back
 
Crosshaft is extremely worn at this stage.
Had planned on changing it a good while back but never did.
Ive a feeling what ploughing is to be done will be waiting until next spring at this stage.
Will report back

Right, you probably won't need to change the shaft itself just the two rocker arms maybe, if it's really worn you are probably better off getting shaft as well. Bloody hedgecutter without axle brackets wore mine out years ago, some job now though. P.s. If your 6900 hasn't got grease nipples on the rocker arms, you can tap them and put grease nipples on them, that's what I did, because the ten series has grease nipples, wears a lot slower then!!
 
Right, you probably won't need to change the shaft itself just the two rocker arms maybe, if it's really worn you are probably better off getting shaft as well. Bloody hedgecutter without axle brackets wore mine out years ago, some job now though. P.s. If your 6900 hasn't got grease nipples on the rocker arms, you can tap them and put grease nipples on them, that's what I did, because the ten series has grease nipples, wears a lot slower then!!
I'm going to change the whole
Lot and be done with it.
They say hedgecutter one pass and plough are the hardest things on them.
That and the inner pto are about theory things that will evened changing on them!!
 
I'm going to change the whole
Lot and be done with it.
They say hedgecutter one pass and plough are the hardest things on them.
That and the inner pto are about theory things that will evened changing on them!!

Ya they are a good ol bus alright, ya better do it all and be done..
 
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