Restoration/ Refurbs

nashmach said:
Nearly impossible to get parts for a Duncan cab now so you may consider Th's repair road I'm afraid.
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Would like to leave the cab on it as the grandfather said it came with that cab new, 69 was the year I think he said, can't remember who he said . Conaty has a nice 35 four cylinder in the yard with the same cab which he says he plans to do up too. Might ask him next time I'm in there, see if he Has any up in the yard or if he finds any for his own.

The grandfather below in wexford used to have a lovely 35 with a 1 door duncan cab with a steel roof and sliding door. Although they may not be the quietest or most comfortable cabs I think they look smart on the tractor.
 
MeathMassey3 said:
Thinking of accepting this massey as part exchange in a deal. Has a few mechanical problems which I can fix. The one unfortunate thing was 40 years ago someone put a roll bar in and drilled 2 holes in the roof of the cab to do it. Would anyone no anywhere where I might get a replacement roof or get one made for it.View attachment 93188
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Could you just get 2 bits of light stainless steel plate, stick them on the bottom of the holes with Tec7 or Sikaflex or similar and fill the 2 holes with the fibreglass filler then. Sand back and shot of paint over it.
 
ZetorMan98 said:
Could you just get 2 bits of light stainless steel plate, stick them on the bottom of the holes with Tec7 or Sikaflex or similar and fill the 2 holes with the fibreglass filler then. Sand back and shot of paint over it.
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Was thinking that. The roof is just Shockin brittle.
 
MeathMassey3 said:
Thinking of accepting this massey as part exchange in a deal. Has a few mechanical problems which I can fix. The one unfortunate thing was 40 years ago someone put a roll bar in and drilled 2 holes in the roof of the cab to do it. Would anyone no anywhere where I might get a replacement roof or get one made for it.View attachment 93188
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Regards fibreglass,Find a video on YouTube,lot of info of how to do such.👍
 
I'd fix it. get some fibreglass matting and if the whole thing is brittle cover the whole underside in mat and resin. a couple of layers laid in opposite directions will add a lot of strength. once it's strong flip it over and cut a couple of circles of it to bring up the holes to level with the surface. some plastic bumper filler then prime and paint. be better than new and won't cost a lot in materials, just time.
 
eddie86 said:
www.donedeal.ie

Fibreglass workshop for sale in Co. Clare for €10 on DoneDeal

We do Repairs to fibreglass or steel panels, welding and respraying eg. Bonnets Roof Mudguards..will have a look at any part.
www.donedeal.ie www.donedeal.ie
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Canyanero said:
Chance the fibreglass it’s not hard, get marine grade resin, you could even underlay some Kevlar tape for strength if you liked. I fixed a few fibreglass bumpers there isn’t much to it just patience in getting it flat. It would be a nice skill for you to have
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Thanks for all the advice. Might chance it myself of I get the tractor. As mentioned by @Canyanero it would be a handy skill to have and wouldn't go a stray.
 
Went about changing the rocker cover gasket today as it's destroying the place with oil. Though while I had gone that far I'd take a look at the cylinders as the engine has started to develop a slight blow. The liners feel in good nick and are smooth with the lip. Would a new set of rings solve the problem perhaps?
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MeathMassey3 said:
Went about changing the rocker cover gasket today as it's destroying the place with oil. Though while I had gone that far I'd take a look at the cylinders as the engine has started to develop a slight blow. The liners feel in good nick and are smooth with the lip. Would a new set of rings solve the problem perhaps?
View attachment 93898View attachment 93899View attachment 93900View attachment 93901View attachment 93902
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They might but it may also be the valves causing the blow. Fill the top of the head with diesel and see if the valves leak any past the seats. Good seats should not leak diesel.
 
This might be a bit of help with the diagnosing too. It holds good oil pressure for around a half an hour of working it then the pressure drops and it starts spitting oil out the dipstick and filler cap.
 
MeathMassey3 said:
This might be a bit of help with the diagnosing too. It holds good oil pressure for around a half an hour of working it then the pressure drops and it starts spitting oil out the dipstick and filler cap.
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Spitting oil out is just another sign of blow by. Low oil pressure when hot is a sign of a worn pump or/and worn big end/main bearings. Has the oil been changed lately?
 
MF30 said:
Spitting oil out is just another sign of blow by. Low oil pressure when hot is a sign of a worn pump or/and worn big end/main bearings. Has the oil been changed lately?
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It's just coming up to a year now since it was last serviced within the next week
 
MF30 said:
Any idea what oil was used? Is the oil pressure problem a new problem or has it been going on for years?
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It has been going since I bought the tractor with that problem and once the pressure drops you can feel the tractor loses a bit of power. The blow this weather has just got considerably worse though causing the tractor to leave a big pool of oil wherever it goes and in turn needing to be topped up. I think it was just standard universal 15 w30.
 
MF30 said:
Any idea what oil was used? Is the oil pressure problem a new problem or has it been going on for years?
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Another problem I'm after spotting here is it looks like the valves have been marking the piston head. Is this normal enough or is it a sign the valves could be my problem? Deffenitely looks like someone was in here before me.
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MeathMassey3 said:
Another problem I'm after spotting here is it looks like the valves have been marking the piston head. Is this normal enough or is it a sign the valves could be my problem? Deffenitely looks like someone was in here before me.
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What were the valve clearances under the tappets like before you removed the rocker shaft? Definitely should be no contact between pistons and valves. If any valve was too tight all your symptoms would point to no clearance.
 
MF30 said:
What were the valve clearances under the tappets like before you removed the rocker shaft? Definitely should be no contact between pistons and valves. If any valve was too tight all your symptoms would point to no clearance.
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The tappets for the first 2 cylinders at the front were lose with clearance but it looks like someone was there before and didn't tighten the lock nut, the 3rd one at the back nearest to the battery was tight and so we're the locknutts
 
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