Shear grab tines

Bencroy

Well-Known Member
Wondering is the heavy duty tines for a sheargrab.have a mchale 6' 6" 3 ram sheargrab.have it since 04.
tines all had to be replaced in early autumn 2018 for the 1st time.they had got very short.
Replaced the whole lot then with tines for local garage/ dealer.
Several have broke since at the base of the grab in different places.will have to replace them .
Is there a heavier or better tine equivalent of the orignals i can get.
 
Kneverland tines would be the best quality tine . There symbol would be stamped on the tine not cheap mind .
Wondering is the heavy duty tines for a sheargrab.have a mchale 6' 6" 3 ram sheargrab.have it since 04.
tines all had to be replaced in early autumn 2018 for the 1st time.they had got very short.
Replaced the whole lot then with tines for local garage/ dealer.
Several have broke since at the base of the grab in different places.will have to replace them .
Is there a heavier or better tine equivalent of the orignals i can get.
 
No there not breaking side by side as such.rang mchales and there still using hsw tines from mchughs in dublin in there bale slicers etc.not doing grabs anymore.its kv tines i put into it this time but there breaking.it was hsw tines orginally in the grab and couldnt fault them.
 
Wondering is the heavy duty tines for a sheargrab.have a mchale 6' 6" 3 ram sheargrab.have it since 04.
tines all had to be replaced in early autumn 2018 for the 1st time.they had got very short.
Replaced the whole lot then with tines for local garage/ dealer.
Several have broke since at the base of the grab in different places.will have to replace them .
Is there a heavier or better tine equivalent of the orignals i can get.

There is a massive difference between spurious tines and genuine Kverneland tines . Plus
No there not breaking side by side as such.rang mchales and there still using hsw tines from mchughs in dublin in there bale slicers etc.not doing grabs anymore.its kv tines i put into it this time but there breaking.it was hsw tines orginally in the grab and couldnt fault them.

New tine , new bushing is definitely the way to go , especially if they were loose for any length of time.

I put new barrel, with new bushings/KV tines in a McKenna rear grab 20 odd years ago , and it shifted a lot of stuff over the next 10 to 15 years , and never a wiggle out of any of them.
 
Changed the whole set on out Twose grab last year I think. Broke two before winter was out
I think they were getting just slightly loose, and in turn the pressure was going onto the weakest part and snapping at the base of the thread.

New sleves would make sense to help sort it

Might consider a new grab this winter tbh.
 
There is a massive difference between spurious tines and genuine Kverneland tines . Plus


New tine , new bushing is definitely the way to go , especially if they were loose for any length of time.

I put new barrel, with new bushings/KV tines in a McKenna rear grab 20 odd years ago , and it shifted a lot of stuff over the next 10 to 15 years , and never a wiggle out of any of them.
The tines are pure tight.no play it them at all.just they are pure sh0000te. Tips are worn after roughly 1100t of silage or 12 months to same extent as old tines that were orginally came in it.
 
I think those tines are too hard with v little abilty to flex a bit like glass. if they could flex a bit then i think they wouldn't break so easy.

When do you find they brake, Ill bet its when you are closing the grab in the pit and it doesn't matter how big or small a bite you take.

Im looking for a solution for the same problem.

edit - I guess it would be a waste of time prior to installation welding a short piece of 1/2" plate on that point of the tine where they break, thats even if it could be welded with a 312rod for disimilar metals. Would it strengthen the tine and stop it from flexing at that point where they are prone to breaking.
 
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I wonder is it caused by not having a good sharp cutting edge on the shear grab, I have never broken a tine and using the same shear grab since 1989, changed tines once when they shortened from running on the concrete. I have a habit of putting the weight of the tractor on the grab before closing it which might put less stress on the tines.
 
Best solution is a bucket grab,I never broke any tines on mine.😁
Thought that myself!!
How much work are they to push into the face?

And is the bucket worth having in terms of volume? Or is loading say 1t of feed into the wagon with it a ballache?
 
Shw tines are ok but that's all. Genuine kverneland tines are the only ones worth a shite. FIS in Kilkenny sell them cheaper then shw ones in other shops.
 
Thought that myself!!
How much work are they to push into the face?

And is the bucket worth having in terms of volume? Or is loading say 1t of feed into the wagon with it a ballache?
Mine was fine at pushing in because my loadalls are fairly heavy,volume wise my 8’ shear bucket held 700kg of meal so not too bad.

It simply wasn’t built for a 13.5t loading shovel and the Volvo killed it.👎
 
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Mine was fine at pushing in because my loadalls are fairly heavy,volume wise my 8’ shear bucket held 700kg of meal so not too bad.

It simply wasn’t built for a 13.5t loading shovel and the Volvo killed it.👎
A loader tractor (120hp) should handle a 4 or 5 ft shear bucket well enough then?
 
I wonder is it caused by not having a good sharp cutting edge on the shear grab, I have never broken a tine and using the same shear grab since 1989, changed tines once when they shortened from running on the concrete. I have a habit of putting the weight of the tractor on the grab before closing it which might put less stress on the tines.
Good edge on it arthur.tines were breaking just on the outide of the bushings.the tines were all tight.the stumps took abit of beating to get them pushed out again.the tines that broke only done 1 season where as what they replaced had 14 seasons done but look everybit as worn .they were pure crap.got a few shw's this evening
 
why are you guys trying to cut concrete??
thats the only reason your tines are shortening is dragging them across the floor
If you’ve a clamp 4 grabs high,a quarter of your blocks are going to be from the clamp floor,even if your careful your still going to wear them over time,also placing blocks in a feed passage will wear them.
 
why are you guys trying to cut concrete??
thats the only reason your tines are shortening is dragging them across the floor
Round feeder boys wouldn't understand!😂

Have you compared your tines to new ones?
I couldn't belive quite how much my old ones had worn!
 
On the point of tines

Would a manual torque amplifier work to tighten them properly?

Looking for an excuse to buy one tbh!🙄😂
 
Round feeder boys wouldn't understand!😂

Have you compared your tines to new ones?
I couldn't belive quite how much my old ones had worn!
theres about 2 inch difference in the originals to any replacements
not going to grummble at that at 18 year old...
 
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On the point of tines

Would a manual torque amplifier work to tighten them properly?

Looking for an excuse to buy one tbh!🙄😂
Only £44 quid, have one the same here and it does the job the finest on opening wheel nuts. Slow as hell job if you’ve to wind them all the way out with it though.

 
On the point of tines

Would a manual torque amplifier work to tighten them properly?

Looking for an excuse to buy one tbh!🙄😂
You would probably strip the threads very easily. The expensive ones have a calculated gear ratio and are designed to be used with a torque wrench for such a job.
If you were willing to chance it you could tighten them as much as you could by hand and then put a mark on it and give it another wee turn.
I bought one for 100euro about four years ago and only used it there this spring, I lifted the dump trailer of the floor with it and you would hardly know it.
 
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On the point of tines

Would a manual torque amplifier work to tighten them properly?

Looking for an excuse to buy one tbh!🙄😂
When fitting new tines use a sledge along with tightening the nut. What I mean is give the nut a nice tighten and then give the tip of the tines a good belt of the sledge and tighten the nut again. Repeat until the nut stays tight. Tightening the shite out the nut alone will cause the tines to snap as your putting a savage stress on the threaded bit when there's no need for brute force at all.
 
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