Shed Roof

jf 850

jf 850

Well-Known Member
I was recently asked by a man who is in the process of building a shed my opinion on roof sheeting. It is to be used as a workshop/machinery storage shed .
He is hoping to put the non drip sheeting on the roof . And is using purloins , as going 20 ft spans.
But he is wondering if he was to use part of the shed for animals , would the coating underneath harbour disease? I always heard that purloins weren't the best over cattle
Anyone any opinions ?
 
I think yes and yes is the answer.
The non drip turns black with mould I was told but If the purlins are the new coated type they might be more suitable over animals?
 
Arthur said:
A lot would depend on ventilation, too stuffy for cattle or a right airy workshop.. hard to combine the 2.
Click to expand...

I would be thinking the same.

@diesel power and his brother put up a fine shed on the brothers place a number of years ago. Use half it as a workshop/machinery store, and rear the calves in the other part . It can be used for storage too, when not rearing calves.
But they have it sheeted on top of a wall , with a door , between both , as in virtually 2 different sheds.
I can’t remember did they use non drip sheeting , something tells me felt underneath , in the workshop area ?
 
jf 850 said:
I would be thinking the same.

@diesel power and his brother put up a fine shed on the brothers place a number of years ago. Use half it as a workshop/machinery store, and rear the calves in the other part . It can be used for storage too, when not rearing calves.
But they have it sheeted on top of a wall , with a door , between both , as in virtually 2 different sheds.
I can’t remember did they use non drip sheeting , something tells me felt underneath , in the workshop area ?
Click to expand...
Non drip drips all the water on the outside timber
 
jf 850 said:
And will rot that timber in time ,
Plus you have the wet spot in one concentrated area?
What would your choice be ?
Click to expand...
I see a shed done with that honey comb type insulation stuff and it's a great Job I was only talking to the lad that had it lately and he said he was on the roof one morning and the section he done had no frost on the top of it and the bit he didn't had.
The lad I was at the sheds with was telling me ventilated sheeting is a waste of time for calf sheds too its Yorkshire boarding is the proper job
 
He could use fibre cement on the roof would be non drip. Personally don’t like the stuff as when it ages it deteriorates and can get brittle or crack. Ensure correct purlin spacings max1375mm and correct purlin sizing if Steel purlin it would want to be at least 205 2mm or even 235 if the budget will stretch and sufficient bracing to roof and sides as reducing any movement will increase life of sheet. I find SVK Neptunus the best been using it now for 9yrs and never had a bother.
 
Avoid timber purlins on 6m bay unless you can get imported timber native stuff is rubbish grand for 4.8m bays but it’ll bend like fuck on 6m even under steel cladding.
 
It is my shed ,I`m building a machinery storage shed and hope to partition a section for a work shop .I had planned to put non drip corri sheeting .Then a neighbour asked me was I building a calf shed for all the unwanted calves ,that got me thinking, a dripping roof over machinery or a non drip roof over calves which would be the lesser of two evils ?(the question I asked jf850) But it is essentially a machinery shed .agrostar ,approx what sort of money extra for fiber cement over non-drip sheeting ?probably won`t be done as the cladding price nearly floored me. The purlins are at 1200 mm centers and 265 x 2 mm bought 2nd hand from under a mezzanine loft .
 
Fiber cement sheeting works out nearly the same price as good gauge grant spec steel cladding (not non drip) now I was told when doing our last job (1.70 sq/ft sticks in my mind) the only price difference will be your heavier timbers/purlins and perhaps more labour in the fitting of fiber.

You’ve fine heavy purlins by the sound of it and they’re the correct spacing for fiber so it’s a no brainer in my mind. Our workshop is a round tin roof and you’d pass out in it on a warm day. I’d relocate to a feed passage under fiber cement to work on something during the summer, it’s far more comfortable than the workshop or out under the sun.
 
agrostar said:
He could use fibre cement on the roof would be non drip. Personally don’t like the stuff as when it ages it deteriorates and can get brittle or crack. Ensure correct purlin spacings max1375mm and correct purlin sizing if Steel purlin it would want to be at least 205 2mm or even 235 if the budget will stretch and sufficient bracing to roof and sides as reducing any movement will increase life of sheet. I find SVK Neptunus the best been using it now for 9yrs and never had a bother.
Click to expand...

agrostar said:
Avoid timber purlins on 6m bay unless you can get imported timber native stuff is rubbish grand for 4.8m bays but it’ll bend like fuck on 6m even under steel cladding.
Click to expand...

denis086 said:
Fiber cement sheeting works out nearly the same price as good gauge grant spec steel cladding (not non drip) now I was told when doing our last job (1.70 sq/ft sticks in my mind) the only price difference will be your heavier timbers/purlins and perhaps more labour in the fitting of fiber.

You’ve fine heavy purlins by the sound of it and they’re the correct spacing for fiber so it’s a no brainer in my mind. Our workshop is a round tin roof and you’d pass out in it on a warm day. I’d relocate to a feed passage under fiber cement to work on something during the summer, it’s far more comfortable than the workshop or out under the sun.
Click to expand...

This is one of the great aspects of the forum. Put a problem out there , and take in various peoples views on the question.

What's the expected lifespan of fibre cement sheeting ?
Would it be , less farmer friendly to fit ? You will have lots of shorter sheets I presume?
You wont be pulling up a sheet that covers all one side of a roof , which may be a pro or con , depending on your point of view .
 
jf 850 said:
This is one of the great aspects of the forum. Put a problem out there , and take in various peoples views on the question.

What's the expected lifespan of fibre cement sheeting ?
Would it be , less farmer friendly to fit ? You will have lots of shorter sheets I presume?
You wont be pulling up a sheet that covers all one side of a roof , which may be a pro or con , depending on your point of view .
Click to expand...
The lifespan of the sheet will be very dependant on the roof build up. Fibre won’t like any movement so purlins can’t sag or frames can’t twist or it will crack ect. This is why correct structural steel and purlin sizes and spacings are essential and adequate bracing.
as for fitting it’s straight forward enough sheets will have to be mitered on the under lapping corners and just being careful will lay it hang enough. One bonus of the SVK is the corners come premitered so the can be snapped off by hand on the nesarry corners. A 200mm overlap is required for this to work best but if the purlins are spaced correctly it will work perfect up the entire roof.
 
Was working under a shed roof recently with metal purlins . It’s a milking parlour roof connected to a cubicle shed . Would make you stay well clear of metal purlins where cattle are involved.

3F5B11F1-0CFA-43D8-A45A-BA54E5FD627D.jpeg 8BB9D4F9-ABEB-4ED8-B66B-B97739BECFE6.jpeg
 
Fibre cement is a good roof for farm use . Have a few sheds here with it. Also have steel cladding.
I don't think fibre is any dearer as @denis086 said, just slower and heavier to fit and needs good purlins.
The roofing contractors usually come out in a rash when you look for fibre cement.
I have in on 6m bays with 9" x 3" timber purlins. Very little sagging and it's up 20 years.
7" x 3" are fine for 4.8 m bays
I know one pig unit replacing old Asbestos roofs at the minute and they are 50 years old.
Fibre cement seems to be a lot mor common on farm buildings in the UK.
 
agrostar said:
Avoid timber purlins on 6m bay unless you can get imported timber native stuff is rubbish grand for 4.8m bays but it’ll bend like fuck on 6m even under steel cladding.
Click to expand...

I find you have to buy the best timber purlins and also make sure there seasoned,90% of my sheds are now 20’ bays with fibre cement on,no way I’d ever use tin again.
 
About to order a shed. Sked for a price with Box Profile cladding.
Sales man calls up.
Fiber cement will be a few hundred cheaper. Why would you want box profile, fiber cement is a much better roof.

Now personally I prefer box, I see a lot of cracks in my old fiber cement rooves. And they are more work to put up.

Or am I wrong?

I could tackle box myself, but would want an installer for fiber cement, which would take the price difference out tbh.
 
I’d prefer steel roof myself depends what’s being stored under it, fibre would only be better if it were say a workshop and you didn’t want a drip in frosty weather or if you wanted it to be slightly in the summer. Problem with much of fibre cement is timbers are rubbish so roof will sag under the dead weight. Modern agri sheeting will outlast fibre in most applications bar maybe a very corrosive salt air environment.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AYF
agrostar said:
I’d prefer steel roof myself depends what’s being stored under it, fibre would only be better if it were say a workshop and you didn’t want a drip in frosty weather or if you wanted it to be slightly in the summer. Problem with much of fibre cement is timbers are rubbish so roof will sag under the dead weight. Modern agri sheeting will outlast fibre in most applications bar maybe a very corrosive salt air environment.
Click to expand...
It's going over a muck store so drips aren't an issue
Tbh we have a box profile on one sheep shed and fiber the other, there wouldn't be much in it drip wise!
 
Has anyone used the spray on foam for a workshop or a machinery shed, Does the closed cell version cause issues with timber purlins?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top