The 8011 rebuild

[Deerehunter]

Great work your doing.its always great to see an old one get a new lease of life. If your opening up the gearbox it would pay to do
the torque pump and brake band as jf850 says but if budget is tight you can adjust the band at a later stage.

 

[Mondo1]

Great work your doing.its always great to see an old one get a new lease of life. If your opening up the gearbox it would pay to do
the torque pump and brake band as jf850 says but if budget is tight you can adjust the band at a later stage.

Thanks @Deerehunter I'll definitely do it at some point. Ya, I'll be happy out when it's back on the 12x8 trailer to haul 8 bales a load during the summer or it often done a few days of slurry but needs to sort out the handbrake to go back on that duty.

 

[Mondo1]

Given the wet day that was in it I took to the shed for an hour or two to try make her a bit more road worthy. I got the hamburger lights for nothing from a friend a few years ago who was upgrading an artic trailer to LED's. They took a bit of a bang last year from the fertiliser spreader, I wasn't piloting at the time! 😁
Had these sitting on the self for 12 months or more so I put them on for the time being, they'll will be replaced with something more appropriate when I come around to changing the mudguards.

 

[Mondo1]

Bit of a slow down the last few days, with plenty of other things on the agenda. I spent a bit of time on Saturday to wiring up the new lights, connecting them to existing wiring. I started at the back working forward, I had to go through and re connect a junction box that I was worried about a short.
I then ran a new section of 7 core from here to the dash. I used the trailer board to check the trailer plug as I went through it.
There was a few bad earths with both the work lights and the park and indicators. The wiring for the ignition and charging will be redone also and I'll be adding a dead man switch in the process.

 

[Mondo1]

I stripped the leveling box a while back and ordered a thrust bearing for it (30mm ID 47mm OD if anyone is looking for one), ye would laugh if ye saw the state of it at the start. I said I'd try and sort it out because there was around an inch and a half in the difference of the height of the ball ends and it wouldn't be much good on a bale handler or fertiliser spreader.
After scraping out the dirt and dried grease I used spray on degreaser and kept wiping it out and it cleaned up the inside really well.
I picked up a wire brush attachment set in the local motorfactors when I was getting a tube of gasket sealer for it and it made a super job of cleaning up different parts, it fits into the chuck of the impact driver.
I've a feeling the blue grease isn't the right one to use but was the only one I had on the shelf so made use of it. Leveling box turned out well for a finish and seems to have been worth the effort of sorting it out, should allow me put the disc mower onto her now that it can be leveled properly, I must get a set of stabilizers but I'll leave that until closer to the summer I'd say.
All sorted for about €20 I'd say between the bearing, tube of sealer, delivery and about an hour of my time.

 

[Mondo1]

Got back to it again yesterday and today for a while, I knicked the 12v battery out of the lawnmower because her own ones won't take a charge. I started to go through and test the brake lights yesterday and all worked fine from the junction box back to the light units but I had nothing from the brake switch to the junction box. After a bit of tracing I found a damaged cable down behind the seat after replacing it all was fine.
Next up was the indicators and there wasn't anything in the tractor to start with so I picked up a flasher unit and I had an on/off/on switch on the self so will use it for now. I found a diagram online and went about it, I just ran power from the fuse holder and ran it up to the flasher unit, flasher has a ground and the last pin runs upto the centre of the switch. It was very straight forward to do actually.

Next up is the front lights, there are the two headlights on the very front with two work lights up top. What would ye suggest? Both on together at the same time or separate? Either way I will fit a relay to avoid burning out the switch.

I have a switch similar to the last pic where I have the parks as stage 1, headlights as 2, worklights as 3. As far as I know it will only 1+2 or 1+3 or 1+4 so I can't get all 3 to come on together at one time. Anyone know a way around it?

 

[Arthur]

You have to seperate the headlights from the work lights, work lights are illegal on the road unless focused and dipping.

 

[Mondo1]

Thanks Arthur, I hadn't thought of that but makes perfect sense. I separate them out so.

 

[candor]

You have to seperate the headlights from the work lights, work lights are illegal on the road unless focused and dipping.

More and more I'm seeing a full compliment of work lights on tractors on the road, very difficult to drive against.

 

[lough]

More and more I'm seeing a full compliment of work lights on tractors on the road, very difficult to drive against.

When you are driving behind someone like that, don't dip the lights, most of the time they cop on then

 

[Deeremassey]

Between worklights and two flashing beacons and maybe another couple of flashing lights I think it is giving tractor drivers a bad reputation. And yea I know it is illegal not to use beacons but they shud only but used when needed. Slow awkward wide loads. Slow doesn't mean 50k

 

[ZetorMan98]

I’ve the front worklights on my Ursus wired to the headlight high beams. They’re on a separate relay and also have a switch so you can knock them off and still use the high beams on their own. It just means that if you do have them on on the road they’ll knock off when you dim your lights

 

[Arthur]

From Revised standards for Agricultural Vehicles (RSA) "working lights: previously known as ‘ploughing lamps’, working lights are fitted to agricultural tractors and self-propelled agricultural machinery so that they can be used in an off-road environment – that is, in a farm yard or field. These lamps should not be switched on when the vehicles are in use on a public road. The Regulations ban white lights being used on the rear of a vehicle when it is in use on a public road. It is illegal to travel on a public road with working lights (ploughing lamps) switched on as they can confuse and dazzle other road users."

 

[TAFKAT]

From Revised standards for Agricultural Vehicles (RSA) "working lights: previously known as ‘ploughing lamps’, working lights are fitted to agricultural tractors and self-propelled agricultural machinery so that they can be used in an off-road environment – that is, in a farm yard or field. These lamps should not be switched on when the vehicles are in use on a public road. The Regulations ban white lights being used on the rear of a vehicle when it is in use on a public road. It is illegal to travel on a public road with working lights (ploughing lamps) switched on as they can confuse and dazzle other road users."

You must nearly have it memorised at this stage

 

[jf 850]

You must nearly have it memorised at this stage

Arthur's Bible . His bedside reading 📚.

 

[Mondo1]

I’ve the front worklights on my Ursus wired to the headlight high beams. They’re on a separate relay and also have a switch so you can knock them off and still use the high beams on their own. It just means that if you do have them on on the road they’ll knock off when you dim your lights

That's sounds ideal, I think I'll do the same. Tractor will be doing mostly farm work and a bit of feeding down the line, so very little road work and even less at night but it's as easy have it done right as wrong.

 

[Mondo1]

Back to it today for a little bit, anyone know I can change the litte seal on this selector from this side? I'd rather not going messing with it before I know I can do it or not. It's inside at the bottom of the housing below the release bearing and it is weeping a little and would like to sort it if I can.