What are you up to in the workshop?

MF30

Well-Known Member
That's great. Thanks for the advice
If you’re really lucky remove the end of the cable from the gauge end and pull the inner cable through, if it’s broken in two pieces this trick is no help to you. But if stretched or end damaged you may be able to just replace the inner cable by threading the new one back, the angle drive can be hard to get at on the timing cover.
 

Danube

Well-Known Member
If you’re really lucky remove the end of the cable from the gauge end and pull the inner cable through, if it’s broken in two pieces this trick is no help to you. But if stretched or end damaged you may be able to just replace the inner cable by threading the new one back, the angle drive can be hard to get at on the timing cover.
That woiod be handy but might be wishful thinking. A while ago the aul lad had someone come out to look over a few things on the tractor and he stuck a drill on the end of the cable and it was working on the dash. Does this mean it's definitely the angle drive unit?
 

MF30

Well-Known Member
That woiod be handy but might be wishful thinking. A while ago the aul lad had someone come out to look over a few things on the tractor and he stuck a drill on the end of the cable and it was working on the dash. Does this mean it's definitely the angle drive unit?
The angle drive bend can break up inside, if the drill was at the engine side of the cable then it must be the angle drive, usually a little flat piece that fits into the timing gear.
 

Danube

Well-Known Member
The angle drive bend can break up inside, if the drill was at the engine side of the cable then it must be the angle drive, usually a little flat piece that fits into the timing gear.
Yeah it was. Must be the angle drive so. Awkward yoke to get at but should be doable. Thanks anyway
 

Bog Man

Well-Known Member
The brass fitting is weeping and must have loosened in the plastic. Is there any company that can reset them in the plastic. It is the extra diesel tank on the Class . FC5EDD42-ED66-47D3-B712-5C39A78FDCD4.jpeg
 

CORK

Well-Known Member
The brass fitting is weeping and must have loosened in the plastic. Is there any company that can reset them in the plastic. It is the extra diesel tank on the Class . View attachment 84468
Would a body repair shop be able to do it by plastic welding? Could they cut it out and reweld it. Obviously getting the inside area free from diesel contamination would be tricky.

Or else cut it out with a hole saw and fit a new fitting that just tightens up from both sides.
 

JohnBoy

Well-Known Member
Is it a hard line or hose going into it?

If you put a finger (any grandchildren yet?) Inside and feel around does the brass fitting have much/any flange inside the tank?

If it does, and its connected to a hose then I have an idea I'll sketch up
 

JohnBoy

Well-Known Member
I don't think sealer of any sort is going to work on it's own and I'd be worried if you remove the fitting with a holesaw that there isnt a huge flat area to put a new flanged fitting onto, it's not clear the scale here, but it looks like there's not much clearance between the nut and that shoulder in the tank.

if the existing fitting is flanged inside then could someone in the engineering capital of the country make up a threaded insert and a flanged nut, like you'd get on a tank fitting, but threaded to match your fitting. you could then put a fuel safe washer and mastic underneath the flanged nut and some sort of adapter to thread onto the shortened hose.

like a tank fitting, but without the flange.

1605554123952.png


Make sense?
 

bagenal

Well-Known Member
I don't think sealer of any sort is going to work on it's own and I'd be worried if you remove the fitting with a holesaw that there isnt a huge flat area to put a new flanged fitting onto, it's not clear the scale here, but it looks like there's not much clearance between the nut and that shoulder in the tank.

if the existing fitting is flanged inside then could someone in the engineering capital of the country make up a threaded insert and a flanged nut, like you'd get on a tank fitting, but threaded to match your fitting. you could then put a fuel safe washer and mastic underneath the flanged nut and some sort of adapter to thread onto the shortened hose.

like a tank fitting, but without the flange.

View attachment 84469


Make sense?
There's a genius with lathes and machine centres only up the road from @Bog Man , he also does a bit of tillage so they could have a chat about their yella barley.
 

Bog Man

Well-Known Member
There is a large hose between the two tanks and about ten years ago the fitting got a clatter of a stick and broke off the piece that fits into the tread resulting in me clamping the pipe with a vice grip to get me home. The new fitting was brass . A weep of diesel appeared during the summer so I got a new hose between the tanks but on investigation it was weeping from the tank so I put a stopend in the hose . The step had become loose so when we took the step off to weld it we decided to remove the tank.
I
There's a genius with lathes and machine centres only up the road from @Bog Man , he also does a bit of tillage so they could have a chat about their yella barley.
I used to cut the silage for the lathe man .
 

Bog Man

Well-Known Member
The brass fitting is weeping and must have loosened in the plastic. Is there any company that can reset them in the plastic. It is the extra diesel tank on the Class . View attachment 84468
F672461D-D750-47CE-BB8C-B6DBAF11E618.jpegF97506B4-7D03-40E6-8FB1-6197CFB7CF0F.jpeg

The solution was to make a fitting to hold the O ring tight to the plastic. Apparently it was a problem with the earlier Valtra,s . Hopefully it works.
 

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BasilSeal

Well-Known Member
One of the main things i've been doing in the workshop for a while now is building the steelwork for this shed. Photo0063.jpgPhoto0064.jpgPhoto0065.jpgPhoto0066.jpgPhoto0067.jpgI've finally (nearly) finished the dry cow shed with dedicated calving pen that i've been building for about two years. this is next to the collecting yard and parlour and the idea is i can move cows that are close to calving into the main pen and when they're actually calving i have the pen at the back with a calving gate to move them to. there's a walkway around the calving pen so i can get from the house to the collecting yard without having to walk all the way through the cubicle shed, to make checking the cows easier. the back wall with the water pipe on is the back wall of the store room of the dairy where all the medicines and the calving aid etc are kept, so i intend to make a doorway through into there for easy access. I've done all the work including the shed frame myself which is why it's taken so long.

I laid the concrete for the collecting yard just after Trump had been elected in 2016 as i remember the lad helping me was talking about it, and the corner post with the feed fence attached to it was put in then so the concrete wouldn't have to be disturbed again as i'd got the shed planned at that point, so it's actually been four years in the building. I've spent a fair bit of time thinkibng about how i wanted it so i'm hoping i've got it right.
Photo0063.jpgPhoto0064.jpgPhoto0065.jpgPhoto0066.jpgPhoto0067.jpg
 

John6610

Well-Known Member
Well lads
I have 32" pipe at home that I dont need I was going to make a roller out of it but just haven't got the time so if any of ye want it let me know
Thanks lads
 

BasilSeal

Well-Known Member
Anyway, i've literally rescued this beast from some nettles as my next project.Photo0033.jpg

it's been standing unused for about 12 years with the engine stuck fast, a week of soaking the bores with a bottle of coke failed to free it off so i've stripped her down, probably for the best as it's a bit cobwebby in the inside:

Photo0050.jpg

got the engine on the stand in the wiorkshop for a full strip down as the crank is a bit marked when i took a big end off.

Photo0059.jpgPhoto0057.jpg
 

AYF

Well-Known Member
Anyway, i've literally rescued this beast from some nettles as my next project.View attachment 84583

it's been standing unused for about 12 years with the engine stuck fast, a week of soaking the bores with a bottle of coke failed to free it off so i've stripped her down, probably for the best as it's a bit cobwebby in the inside:

View attachment 84584

got the engine on the stand in the wiorkshop for a full strip down as the crank is a bit marked when i took a big end off.

View attachment 84585View attachment 84586
Quite the project! What model is she?
 

BasilSeal

Well-Known Member
Quite the project! What model is she?
It's a chocolate and white 995, so one of the earlier ones, it's only got 3000 hours on the clock and when i disconnected the tacho cable and spun it by hand the needle moved on the clock so i think it may be genuine, it's actually in better nick than it looks. bit of a leap in the dark though as i have no idea if the back end is ok once i've got the engine running.
 
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