What are you up to in the workshop?

Ya 6 way diverter Identical to one below . Have power and earth wired in to one and 2 . Have 3rd pin empty .

s-l500.png


s-l1600.png

Have you the pipes the right way round? Is the solenoid clicking?
 
Lads wiring up a solenoid on a hydraulic circuit. Power off oil goes to first ram working fine . Power the solenoid and first ram stops but second doesn’t move . Now second circuit is a motor. No pressure comes in to either hose running to motor . It’s a new solenoid . Any ideas ?
Sounds like you’ve possibly the supply pipes from the tractor hooked to the wrong side of the block? Looking at the front ports with the coil to the top supply should be to the left, function one to the right and function 2 off the front ones if it’s the same as the ones here. If your supply is connected to the wrong side of the block the first function will work fine but when you activate the coil your 2 rams or ram and motor in this case will be connected and the supply pipes dead ended
 
Ya 6 way diverter Identical to one below . Have power and earth wired in to one and 2 . Have 3rd pin empty .

s-l500.png


s-l1600.png
Most likely as drew says above your pipes from the spool should be on the other ports, is the led coming on in the connector if there is one?
 
So I put 12v feed to ignition switch number 1 and then the starter wire to number 4 number 3 is for pre heat . So is number 2 to go to charge light then to alternator ? When i start engine the charge light stays lit ?

Have you four or five terminals on your switch. That search is showing multiple switches.

Best option is to test it to be sure. Alternator should be always live once ignition is on. If the light is on it should indicate a fault.

Wire the alternator direct to the battery with a test lamp in line as your alternator light to test it independent of the switch
 
Spot on lads .
Sounds like you’ve possibly the supply pipes from the tractor hooked to the wrong side of the block? Looking at the front ports with the coil to the top supply should be to the left, function one to the right and function 2 off the front ones if it’s the same as the ones here. If your supply is connected to the wrong side of the block the first function will work fine but when you activate the coil your 2 rams or ram and motor in this case will be connected and the supply pipes dead ended

Most likely as drew says above your pipes from the spool should be on the other ports, is the led coming on in the connector if there is one?

This is what I’m wiring up . It came with a double block to work the door as well . But should be easier to work with the door separate as the tractor has 3 spools.

2F1CA783-898A-47CA-B87B-6350124A8865.jpeg
 
Spot on lads .




This is what I’m wiring up . It came with a double block to work the door as well . But should be easier to work with the door separate as the tractor has 3 spools.

View attachment 98681
I d be careful running the motor through the diverter valve,if you stop oil flow to/from the motor using the diverter, hydraulic motors don't usually like being shut off abruptly by a valve with closed ports, it can cause damaging pressure spikes which I ve seen to shear motor shafts. Sometimes a motor control valve will have a built in relief valve to prevent pressure spikes or be controlled by an open center valve which would allow the motor to coast to a stop.
Just my thoughts on it , it ll probably be ok though as there isn't much momentum in the conveyor
 
Last edited:
The elevator is new to here . It came with a block to have door,elevator and up down of elevator on one spool with a 3 way switch. Im putting it so the door isn’t touched and the 2 functions of the elevator are ran off the the 3rd spool . Should be a better job I think.
So your swapping the door and the up/down on the elevator?

Should be easy to do.
 
The elevator is new to here . It came with a block to have door,elevator and up down of elevator on one spool with a 3 way switch. Im putting it so the door isn’t touched and the 2 functions of the elevator are ran off the the 3rd spool . Should be a better job I think.
When your feeding out you always use the door to control the amount on the conveyor,I start the conveyor then alter the door and if feeding into a trough I’ll sometimes alter the angle of the elevator,I wouldn’t like all three on one switch.

All 3 of my tub mixers came with cetop valves and a switch box that goes in the cab so you can run them with one spool,it’s basically a spool block that’s electric,I prefer them plugged direct into the tractor spools but sometimes you’ve no option.
 
I've been doing some work on the Sisyphean task that is maintaining the JCB 515, great machine as long as you don't want to actually use it. the back axle has collapsed, among other things but i'm starting on the axle. In order to get the axle pin out you have to remove the counter weight, and the exhaust can, and a load of other stuff

Photo0019.jpg

the machine is hydrostatic and the motors are mounted on hub flanges that pivot on taper roller bearings the are located with trunnion mounts like this

$_61.JPG

these are machined and there no shims to remove to take out play so once they get wear the bearing rapidly collapses and fecks everything. To get the bearing casing out of the blind hole in the axle i use the welding trick, run a bead of weld around the bearing which when it cools makes the casing shrink so it will come out easier, i tacked a bit of scrap into the middle and welded a 10mm bolt to it to thread the slid hammer onto.

Photo0014.jpgPhoto0015.jpg

the steer links are trashed as well so i've been making some stainless pins for them on the lathe. the lathe isn't very big and the 30mm bar wont go through the spindle, in the ideal world you'd pass the full length of bar through the spindle and machine the end the chop off the bit you need and not have any waste. if the bar wont fit through the lathe spindle then you have to cut if off longer than you need so you have a bit to grip in the chuck. so i've been cutting a bit long enough to make two pins, and machining one end then turning it round to machine the other gripping the bit i've just machined.

Photo0016.jpgPhoto0017.jpg
Ideally you'd then part it off but this lathe isn't really up to parting of stainless so i cheated and chopped it in two with the angle grinder in the vice, then faced the cut ends off, there's a bit of variation on the thickness of the heads but that won't matter in use

Photo0018.jpg
the reason one is longer is because one pin had been moving in the cast hub and made the hole oval, so i've reamed it out bigger by bolting it down to the table on the radial drill then i've made some top hat bushes and locktighted them in.
Photo0011.jpgPhoto0012.jpg
that's as far as i've got, just got to put it back together now.
 
I have to take the 4 wheels off the 115 to get them painted, she will be up on axle stands, which is better to take off first front or back?
 
I have to take the 4 wheels off the 115 to get them painted, she will be up on axle stands, which is better to take off first front or back?
I'm going to say front first.
As the front axle can pivot as you jack one side of the back up. Not forcing movement on the stands.

But if the rear was on stands and you jacked the front it would force it to move slightly on the stands.
 
Did a bit more to the 515. the axel is built up with new bearings

Photo0020.jpg
hopefully got a lad coming to help me get it back together at the weekend as it's really a two man job to get the axle back on and then re fit the counter weight. Next job is the pivot pin on the main lift ram

Photo0022.jpg
not a very good photo but you can see there's a fair bit of play in the mounting brackets on the ram, the pin should be fixed in the ram but it's picked up on the chassis pivot and broken the locating pin so it's been spinning on the ram mounts rather than the bush in the chassis mount, the result is the holes have about 1/4" of play round the pin. the pipe i'm holding should be threaded into the end of the pin to carry grease to it, but it's just been twisted off when the pin spun so when i've been greasing the nipple on the other end of that pipe it's been squirting on the floor. We're going to make a couple of 50mm bore bushes to go on either side of the ram mounts, there's enough room to put a 30mm thick bush on wither side then make a longer pin to suit.
 
Did a bit more to the 515. the axel is built up with new bearings

View attachment 99161
hopefully got a lad coming to help me get it back together at the weekend as it's really a two man job to get the axle back on and then re fit the counter weight. Next job is the pivot pin on the main lift ram

View attachment 99162
not a very good photo but you can see there's a fair bit of play in the mounting brackets on the ram, the pin should be fixed in the ram but it's picked up on the chassis pivot and broken the locating pin so it's been spinning on the ram mounts rather than the bush in the chassis mount, the result is the holes have about 1/4" of play round the pin. the pipe i'm holding should be threaded into the end of the pin to carry grease to it, but it's just been twisted off when the pin spun so when i've been greasing the nipple on the other end of that pipe it's been squirting on the floor. We're going to make a couple of 50mm bore bushes to go on either side of the ram mounts, there's enough room to put a 30mm thick bush on wither side then make a longer pin to suit.
Nice work there, are the ram mounts worn too or just the bushings in the chassis?
 
Nice work there, are the ram mounts worn too or just the bushings in the chassis?

I think the chassis bush is ok it's the two lugs on the end of the ram that attach it to the chassis mount that have worn, the pin should be fixed in the ram and pivot on the chassis mount, but it's sheared the locking pin and has been staying still in the chassis mount and pivoting on the ram mounts instead, which are just mild steel and not greaded, just metal on metal hence the rapid wear. if that makes sense.

the lift ram has an end on like these

s-l1600.jpg

there's a raised bush on the chassis that fits between the two 'ears', the pivot pin is fixed in the ears and moves in the bush, mine's been doing the opposite.
 
My latest job is doing up a thyregod for another man. It’s a big job. Started with getting the wiring sorted which included taking some switches and diodes from a donor harvester and putting it in the good harvester. Replace all turbine bars and bolts. Tidy up the turbine cages. Remove all the web belts. Replace the sprongs and re rivet them to the bels. Replace most of the beatings on the machine. Modify the topper and stone remover like my own harvester. It’ll probably be the best one in the country when it’s done because he’s willing to spend the money on it. Really interesting work.
 
My latest job is doing up a thyregod for another man. It’s a big job. Started with getting the wiring sorted which included taking some switches and diodes from a donor harvester and putting it in the good harvester. Replace all turbine bars and bolts. Tidy up the turbine cages. Remove all the web belts. Replace the sprongs and re rivet them to the bels. Replace most of the beatings on the machine. Modify the topper and stone remover like my own harvester. It’ll probably be the best one in the country when it’s done because he’s willing to spend the money on it. Really interesting work.
IMG-20211021-WA0006.jpgIMG-20211021-WA0007.jpgIMG-20211021-WA0008.jpg
 
Back
Top