What are you up to in the workshop?

I was looking at it on our tractor a pure bastard remove I’d say. A hollow jack or a well put together threaded rod assembly with heat is needed and you can’t access the back of the pin?
 
Soak in kerosene/diesel & 2 stroke oil mixed for the night.....should burn cleaner,any that penetrates in/about the rust


I still suspect,you'll end up burning it out
 
There is a small hole, maybe 6 or 8 mm wide at the back of the pin. Have one punch broke there already. The one good thing about it is that there’s a flat side there that should be ok in a press.
Tekscrew said:
I was looking at it on our tractor a pure bastard remove I’d say. A hollow jack or a well put together threaded rod assembly with heat is needed and you can’t access the back of the pin?
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blue5th said:
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Any suggestions for getting the pin out of this ram? So far I have tried soaking it with wd 40, heating it with a blow torch, then soaking it in lubricating oil, hitting it from the back with a punch, welding a threaded bar to it and tightening a whitworth socket down around it. What’s next? Would prefer not to cut it out.
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pins are easily sourced and cheap, why would you prefer not to cut it. you could take a hacksaw and cut each side of the ball and it wouldn't damage the ram. then you have greatly reduced the force needed to press out each section of pin.
 
Good point, but the top of the ram is a bit like a top link. It's very tight. You can't actually see the pin either side of the piece it passes through. This is before it was painted. I'm not really trying to save the pin. I just want to have no side to side play. I could shove a washer in there afterwards I suppose.
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blue5th said:
View attachment 167975View attachment 167976
Any suggestions for getting the pin out of this ram? So far I have tried soaking it with wd 40, heating it with a blow torch, then soaking it in lubricating oil, hitting it from the back with a punch, welding a threaded bar to it and tightening a whitworth socket down around it. What’s next? Would prefer not to cut it out.
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Can you have someone jiggle the ram up and down whilst you tighten the nut?

Might be that the ram eye has worn the pin, causing a lip that could just be enough to hold everything in place, especially when its at that angle.



And just in case, that's hardly an extra retainer of some form on the back of the ram eye? Or where a grease ripple once was?
 
Bearing on the header auger was on the way out . Made up a pullers to get the boss of the slip clutch off . Split the bearing with the die grinder.
 

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Doing them stupid roll pins for the knives on the f550. Things I learned was a pit is incredibly handy and if you drop the floor enough and drop the knives enough, stick a bolt in the top of the roll pins and hammer a bit of flat bar through the slot that the knife goes through onto the bolt, that got them out easy then. Also helps that some1 that is incredibly mechanically minded to come up with that solution on the fly which we got when we went borrowing a pit to get in underneath the baler
 
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c4l said:
Doing them stupid roll pins for the knives on the f550. Things I learned was a pit is incredibly handy and if you drop the floor enough and drop the knives enough, stick a bolt in the top of the roll pins and hammer a bit of flat bar through the slot that the knife goes through onto the bolt, that got them out easy then. Also helps that some1 that is incredibly mechanically minded to come up with that solution on the fly which we got when we went borrowing a pit to get in underneath the baler
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What an ignorant prick of a job. And made even worse that it’s double pins
 
drew said:
What an ignorant prick of a job. And made even worse that it’s double pins
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was there for 10 minutes messing about with it here at home on my back and eyes full of dust questioning my existence. quick phone call and was using a pit and the lad that was there a gift of a mechanic and came up with a solution to hammer down the pins rather than up. them pins came out far easier that way. managed to hammer the pins to get the 2 broken pieces out, stuck a bolt in it hammered the pins the other way out using a flat bar down through the slot in the floor on top of the bolt
 
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spent an hour today filing silicone and metal burrs off a kuhn mower bed. bought 5 second hand gears for the bed as dad hit a rock.
i'm thinking it's a flawed design, because if one gear breaks the detritus wipes out others.
yet if you look at an automotive manual gearbox, the gears are in pairs and if one gear is wiped out it only wipes out the one it meshes with, the others are usually fine.
so if you wanted to make a mower without the flaw you could have the gears in two layers, with a baffle between them. then when a gear breaks the damage is confined to what is meshed on the same layer
the power flow would work in series gears on the lower layer until it reaches a gear neighbouring a hub, where a shaft brings the drive to the upper layer to a sacrificial gear which meshes with a hub gear.
the downside would be increased bed thickness, weight and complexity.
another method would be a worm gear drive at the side of the bed, so if a gear wiped out, it would only wipe out the hub gear in its own compartment. worm gears are very expensive so don't see it catching on.
of course if a mower bed was designed on a slant so that the discs were offset behind the disc beside it, they wouldn't have to be geared together, and the bed could be driven with belts instead of gears.
 
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matbro said:
spent an hour today filing silicone and metal burrs off a kuhn mower bed. bought 5 second hand gears for the bed as dad hit a rock.
i'm thinking it's a flawed design, because if one gear breaks the detritus wipes out others.
yet if you look at an automotive manual gearbox, the gears are in pairs and if one gear is wiped out it only wipes out the one it meshes with, the others are usually fine.
so if you wanted to make a mower without the flaw you could have the gears in two layers, with a baffle between them. then when a gear breaks the damage is confined to what is meshed on the same layer
the power flow would work in series gears on the lower layer until it reaches a gear neighbouring a hub, where a shaft brings the drive to the upper layer to a sacrificial gear which meshes with a hub gear.
the downside would be increased bed thickness, weight and complexity.
another method would be a worm gear drive at the side of the bed, so if a gear wiped out, it would only wipe out the hub gear in its own compartment. worm gears are very expensive so don't see it catching on.
of course if a mower bed was designed on a slant so that the discs were offset behind the disc beside it, they wouldn't have to be geared together, and the bed could be driven with belts instead of gears.
Click to expand...

What way is the krone done doesn’t that avoid gears in bed from getting smashed up ?
 
matbro said:
spent an hour today filing silicone and metal burrs off a kuhn mower bed. bought 5 second hand gears for the bed as dad hit a rock.
i'm thinking it's a flawed design, because if one gear breaks the detritus wipes out others.
yet if you look at an automotive manual gearbox, the gears are in pairs and if one gear is wiped out it only wipes out the one it meshes with, the others are usually fine.
so if you wanted to make a mower without the flaw you could have the gears in two layers, with a baffle between them. then when a gear breaks the damage is confined to what is meshed on the same layer
the power flow would work in series gears on the lower layer until it reaches a gear neighbouring a hub, where a shaft brings the drive to the upper layer to a sacrificial gear which meshes with a hub gear.
the downside would be increased bed thickness, weight and complexity.
another method would be a worm gear drive at the side of the bed, so if a gear wiped out, it would only wipe out the hub gear in its own compartment. worm gears are very expensive so don't see it catching on.
of course if a mower bed was designed on a slant so that the discs were offset behind the disc beside it, they wouldn't have to be geared together, and the bed could be driven with belts instead of gears.
Click to expand...
Or just buy a lely and keep damage to 1 unit
 
matbro said:
spent an hour today filing silicone and metal burrs off a kuhn mower bed. bought 5 second hand gears for the bed as dad hit a rock.
i'm thinking it's a flawed design, because if one gear breaks the detritus wipes out others.
yet if you look at an automotive manual gearbox, the gears are in pairs and if one gear is wiped out it only wipes out the one it meshes with, the others are usually fine.
so if you wanted to make a mower without the flaw you could have the gears in two layers, with a baffle between them. then when a gear breaks the damage is confined to what is meshed on the same layer
the power flow would work in series gears on the lower layer until it reaches a gear neighbouring a hub, where a shaft brings the drive to the upper layer to a sacrificial gear which meshes with a hub gear.
the downside would be increased bed thickness, weight and complexity.
another method would be a worm gear drive at the side of the bed, so if a gear wiped out, it would only wipe out the hub gear in its own compartment. worm gears are very expensive so don't see it catching on.
of course if a mower bed was designed on a slant so that the discs were offset behind the disc beside it, they wouldn't have to be geared together, and the bed could be driven with belts instead of gears.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you want a lely bed. Each disc unit is seperate and driven by a hex shaft across the back of the bed.
 
matbro said:
looking at a video of the lely splendimo, it's ideal. are they more expensive than the kuhn second hand.
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No lely would be cheap enough to buy now mainly as they haven’t been made for a number of years at this stage. It’s a system and it works to a point but they weren’t faultless either, you could ring the hex shaft and it could be hard enough to get the ring off bit out then.

The other thing that lads said about the lely was they could be used for a bit of light ditch maintenance as you could run them vertically because of the seperate units, whereas in a normal mower all the oil would end up at one end of the bed so wasn’t advisable
 
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