What are you up to in the workshop?

Had to replace the quick attach mechanism on the volvo replaced the quick release with t piece and in line valves to make it easier to switch the quick attach on/off.
cut one hose a bit short!!!
Only have the one tap on my loadalls,you only need to stop one side of the hitch ram.
Isn’t there a rocker switch on the dash of most Volvo loaders to release the pressure on the line.
There isn’t on my 70f,has its own dedicated switch/line for the quickhitch,I just feather the spool to let pressure off bedore coupling up,works everytime.
 
New new lockdown project.

Bought a 2007 primastar and we're going to do a basic camper conversion.

On a few days off for mid term, got the existing seats ripped out, a plan made for the new layout and made a start on the new bed frame.

There will be a platform over the boot an folded down seats for us to sleep on and enough room on the floor for the kids to sleep on.
 

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New new lockdown project.

Bought a 2007 primastar and we're going to do a basic camper conversion.

On a few days off for mid term, got the existing seats ripped out, a plan made for the new layout and made a start on the new bed frame.

There will be a platform over the boot an folded down seats for us to sleep on and enough room on the floor for the kids to sleep on.
Just spotted this locally in case you need any parts

 
New new lockdown project.

Bought a 2007 primastar and we're going to do a basic camper conversion.

On a few days off for mid term, got the existing seats ripped out, a plan made for the new layout and made a start on the new bed frame.

There will be a platform over the boot an folded down seats for us to sleep on and enough room on the floor for the kids to sleep on.
I saw one where the bulkhead could fold over the top of the front seats, so children could sleep on a kind of bunk up there. Could be a valuable bit of space.

Although I doubt you have a bulkhead given you need rear seats?
 
Are you going to turn it into a hybrid / EV ?
Nah, I'll be keeping it stock for now. I have a few boxes with all the rest of the bits to put back together.

Some variety in that picture, quad, washing machine, Phillips sound system, oil burner, livestock box, electric water pump?
Spice of life and all that, you're right on all but the washing machine.
 
I’m still at this catros and I’m going mad, some of the shafts are destroyed from having to grind off the bearings/hubs since they were welded, Iv machined up stub axles off 30mm hydraulic cylinder shafts which will do the job but it’s some pain. The shafts that are okay are worn around the outsides of the inner piece and have to be filled with weld in order to hold oil. Most of the bearings in the front gang are the wrong bearings and the old oil seals are thrown out. The genuine oil seal kit is about 90 Euro, for reference for anyone attempting this in future (don’t) you can buy the mechanical seals from a French company called “cam agri” for 25 Euro, this just includes the mechanical seals, the O rings are easily got after that. You don’t get the silly stupid 34ml bottle of “oil” which I actually discovered from contacting some Germans is actually a rubber lubricant but you can buy that yourself. The oil actually used in the bearings is CLP 220 and costs about 10 Euro a litre. The shims if they are missing are 30x45x2.5. If the sliding chrome bars are worn you can reverse them. I replaced mine with hydraulic cylinder again. The bolts that hold on the legs are 10.9’s, 8.8’s are not strong enough 🤬
 
I’m still at this catros and I’m going mad, some of the shafts are destroyed from having to grind off the bearings/hubs since they were welded, Iv machined up stub axles off 30mm hydraulic cylinder shafts which will do the job but it’s some pain. The shafts that are okay are worn around the outsides of the inner piece and have to be filled with weld in order to hold oil. Most of the bearings in the front gang are the wrong bearings and the old oil seals are thrown out. The genuine oil seal kit is about 90 Euro, for reference for anyone attempting this in future (don’t) you can buy the mechanical seals from a French company called “cam agri” for 25 Euro, this just includes the mechanical seals, the O rings are easily got after that. You don’t get the silly stupid 34ml bottle of “oil” which I actually discovered from contacting some Germans is actually a rubber lubricant but you can buy that yourself. The oil actually used in the bearings is CLP 220 and costs about 10 Euro a litre. The shims if they are missing are 30x45x2.5. If the sliding chrome bars are worn you can reverse them. I replaced mine with hydraulic cylinder again. The bolts that hold on the legs are 10.9’s, 8.8’s are not strong enough 🤬
Some pain, you would have been as well buy a new polish one.
 
I’m still at this catros and I’m going mad, some of the shafts are destroyed from having to grind off the bearings/hubs since they were welded, Iv machined up stub axles off 30mm hydraulic cylinder shafts which will do the job but it’s some pain. The shafts that are okay are worn around the outsides of the inner piece and have to be filled with weld in order to hold oil. Most of the bearings in the front gang are the wrong bearings and the old oil seals are thrown out. The genuine oil seal kit is about 90 Euro, for reference for anyone attempting this in future (don’t) you can buy the mechanical seals from a French company called “cam agri” for 25 Euro, this just includes the mechanical seals, the O rings are easily got after that. You don’t get the silly stupid 34ml bottle of “oil” which I actually discovered from contacting some Germans is actually a rubber lubricant but you can buy that yourself. The oil actually used in the bearings is CLP 220 and costs about 10 Euro a litre. The shims if they are missing are 30x45x2.5. If the sliding chrome bars are worn you can reverse them. I replaced mine with hydraulic cylinder again. The bolts that hold on the legs are 10.9’s, 8.8’s are not strong enough 🤬

Are you sorry yet for buying it!!!!
 
Very hard find clean second hand stuff, getting very put off the idea of a second hand front mower, Might be better off waiting a year till there’s some money for a new one
 
Any advice on the best cleaner to remove cured expanding foam from a painted wooden door frame.
It was poorly fitted so I removed the fixings and refitted it but now have a 15mm stain of residue on the adjoining frame as the original fitters had it out of line.
I have tried white spirits but no joy, afraid to do harm to paintwork.
Any advice appreciated.
 
Any advice on the best cleaner to remove cured expanding foam from a painted wooden door frame.
It was poorly fitted so I removed the fixings and refitted it but now have a 15mm stain of residue on the adjoining frame as the original fitters had it out of line.
I have tried white spirits but no joy, afraid to do harm to paintwork.
Any advice appreciated.
Dry ice if you can get hold of some should lift it.
There is foam remover chemicals but they're hard enough on some finishes
 
Any advice on the best cleaner to remove cured expanding foam from a painted wooden door frame.
It was poorly fitted so I removed the fixings and refitted it but now have a 15mm stain of residue on the adjoining frame as the original fitters had it out of line.
I have tried white spirits but no joy, afraid to do harm to paintwork.
Any advice appreciated.
Petrol dissolves expanding foam or so a lad I did some digging for once told me. Some fella squirted expanding foam down his gulley traps around his house and blocked them solid. Petrol cleared them out, not sure if matches were involved or not.
 
Petrol dissolves expanding foam or so a lad I did some digging for once told me. Some fella squirted expanding foam down his gulley traps around his house and blocked them solid. Petrol cleared them out, not sure if matches were involved or not.
Petrol dissolves the white aero board, I never tried it on the expanding foam
 
Petrol dissolves expanding foam or so a lad I did some digging for once told me. Some fella squirted expanding foam down his gulley traps around his house and blocked them solid. Petrol cleared them out, not sure if matches were involved or not.
I doubt that matches were involved, petrol and matches aren't a great combination.
 
Any advice on the best cleaner to remove cured expanding foam from a painted wooden door frame.
It was poorly fitted so I removed the fixings and refitted it but now have a 15mm stain of residue on the adjoining frame as the original fitters had it out of line.
I have tried white spirits but no joy, afraid to do harm to paintwork.
Any advice appreciated.
I had something similar of a problem with my own house, PVC frames but i had a combo of expanding foam residue and the protective film that was left on too long:crying:, I tried many different chemicals but each one caused a different other problem, In the end i got a cheap steam cleaner from Argos and used it to clean off with a soft brush attachment, they came out very well but it was painfully slow, but iv had no issues that the chemicals were going to cause to seals or finish of the PVC.
It may or may not work for you but it is the least destructive option to try.
 
It was to make a track in a cavity wall to bring a pipe up to bring in an ESB cable. It took a lot of petrol to melt a small track.
I wouldn't know anything about napalm


Saw a guy on a US TV show do that once with a SIP. blowtorch and a large ball bearing, got the ball hot in a tongs and put it in there and it dropped out the bottom a few seconds later leaving a perfect channel behind.
 
Put a new set of discs on the Lemken today, not much meat left on the old ones. The caps on the hubs were wearing a bit so I welded bits of 16 mm round on to protect them.
 

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