scoffcruddle
Well-Known Member
I used to think JCB pins were bad to remove,Volvo pins are on another level of tight.
Will they not be very hard for driĺling?Trying to remove the pins gas and bottle jack. Switched to grinder and will be followed by mag drill!! Much more effective
No I tested with an ordinary drill bit before cuttingWill they not be very hard for driĺling?
I didn’t maybe I’ll try that on second one. Definitely going to try lifting second one out in place if possible.Did you try putting a bolt or a threaded into the pin and using it as a pullers. With that and the gas you would shift most of them.
I did that and used the hub of a brake disc as the pulling point as it fitted over the head of the pin .Did you try putting a bolt or a threaded into the pin and using it as a pullers. With that and the gas you would shift most of them.
And? Did it work😀I did that and used the hub of a brake disc as the pulling point as it fitted over the head of the pin .
On the Z linkage it worked but not on the hinge point for the euro hitch.And? Did it work😀
In the Volvo manual it shows using an enerpac hollow cylinder to remove them.👍I find the hollow cylinder is a gift for the likes of those jobs, You can have it set up and under pressure , heat the pin with the gas and 9/10 it'll pop and allow you to draw it out using the cylinder, a good constant force is hard bet vs sledging the life out of something.
That said you need a decent size of a thread in the pin to do this as anything below m10 is just going to get stretched if its well stuck.
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You don’t by any chance recal what thread it is 😀 save me a 20 minute drive.On the Z linkage it worked but not on the hinge point for the euro hitch.
You don’t by any chance recal what thread it is 😀 save me a 20 minute drive.
faulty cell unfortunately - how many cells?Weighing scales giving bother here. Drifts massively when plugged into clock. Clock on its own just fine. Imagine there's slight damp in the connections and this altering the resistance. Anybody any quickfire ideas to get it working
Weighing scales giving bother here. Drifts massively when plugged into clock. Clock on its own just fine. Imagine there's slight damp in the connections and this altering the resistance. Anybody any quickfire ideas to get it working
Looks like you have it under control 👍.8240 in this week
synchro hasn't been right since we rebuilt it but we hope we found the problem. any tips @Emg12 ?!! 😂 😂
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What was the problem. ?8240 in this week
synchro hasn't been right since we rebuilt it but we hope we found the problem. any tips @Emg12 ?!! 😂 😂
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Basically we rebuilt the gearbox a month ago due to a host of little niggling problems, one mainly being the f/r synchro being gone. the main cause being someone was in there before us and must have had a few left over parts after they rebuilt it! loads of the plastic thrust washers missing causing all sorts of problems. Anyway after we rebuilt it the synchro kept jumping out of reverse. we now discovered that we forgot a thrust washer on the end of the synchro which allowed to much play thus letting it jump out of gear. will be putting it back together this eve so hopefully all will be well!!🤞🤞What was the problem. ?
You could actually connect each one individually or remove one at a time to see which is failing. What is the scales?4 cells on it. One for each leg? So test each cell for resistance? Find out which is out of tune with the rest?
No there was a split pin alright still needed the big wrench.Make sure there's no grub screw on the end of the rod before you unscrew it. I ruined one off a 3cx when I was younger, big stylson long pipe. Screwed off the end and ruined the threads
Saw this yesterdayVolvo loader ram resealing toolkit !!